Diesel_brad
Dunce
Bought a used Vortech SC for my 96 460 truck this weekend. Prob is. no oil feed line,inline fuel pump and no boost/timing knob. Anyone ever put one on? can i get these parts from somewhere other than vortech?
EFI 460 supercharger ?
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Optikalillushun
Registered User
could u possibly use an FMU? or is that what they supply? oil feed line could probably be made at a local shop. not sure on the boost/timing knob but maybe check some mustang forums for a seller selling parts?
Diesel_brad
Dunce
The FMU came w the kit.
fine6.9
Full Access Member
Boost timing knob you should be able to get from MSD or Vortec. Oil feed line should be able to make. I put one of these systems on my Mustang years ago, very fun. Enjoy and keep us posted on your progress.
I may have a boost timing control and knob. Do you have the control already?
Diesel_brad
Dunce
I have the control box already. Vortech will only sell the complete timing kit. I still need a control knob w the lead to plug into the box.
I ended up ordering the Oil fee kit from vortech. and the fuel line adapters so i didnt need to hack up my fuel lines.I have a fuel pump i am going to "borrow" from my lightning kit untill i go to put that on the lightning.
Had to order a thermostat housing too. It points in a differnt direction so the head unit will clear.
Had to get a 3/8 street elbow and drill and tap my valve cover for my oil return line.
I put the head unit bracket on,Oil return fitting,Boost/timing box mounted,and FMU mounted.
I am waiting on the fuel fittings, thermostat housing(58 bucks
)Ford wanted 138,oil supply kit. And i have to figure out something w the boost control knob.
I am so goin to need traction bars to control wheel hop/axle wrap
O here is what it going on
I ended up ordering the Oil fee kit from vortech. and the fuel line adapters so i didnt need to hack up my fuel lines.I have a fuel pump i am going to "borrow" from my lightning kit untill i go to put that on the lightning.
Had to order a thermostat housing too. It points in a differnt direction so the head unit will clear.
Had to get a 3/8 street elbow and drill and tap my valve cover for my oil return line.
I put the head unit bracket on,Oil return fitting,Boost/timing box mounted,and FMU mounted.
I am waiting on the fuel fittings, thermostat housing(58 bucks
)Ford wanted 138,oil supply kit. And i have to figure out something w the boost control knob.I am so goin to need traction bars to control wheel hop/axle wrap
O here is what it going on
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I will see if I have the knob still and let you know tomorrow. can you send a pic of the connector on the control
Diesel_brad
Dunce
here is the end on the control box..THANKS
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tractorman86
Registered User
so when it is all on there we will see a video... right
Diesel_brad
Dunce
sure. no problem. Just need to get all the pieces
Diesel_brad
Dunce
well i got her finished up tody
here are some pics. How do i get Video up?
here are some pics. How do i get Video up?
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tractorman86
Registered User
wow that looks great! how about the performance? where is the video?EDIT: not sure how to post videos, someone will help
Diesel_brad
Dunce
Well to put it mildly. it is just plain SICK. as for videos, it kinda hard. I live alone and i dont have any friend in the area.
But I sooooo need Traction bars. I melts the tires in first, second extream wheel hop. then 3rd hops pretty good too
But I sooooo need Traction bars. I melts the tires in first, second extream wheel hop. then 3rd hops pretty good too
RustyBolts
Full Access Member
Any advancements made?
Diesel_brad
Dunce
Well.... On my way back from The all Truck nationals in Carlise this summer(which I got second place) my front seal decided to take a crap. So i pull the head unit and sent it to Vortech to be rebuilt. Come to find out the bearings were bad which in turn streached the seal and created the leak. But the housing was shot too. The bearing just fell out instead of needing to be pressed out, so it got a new housing too.
Anyway, since the superchargers are a lil more common on 1st gen lightnings and mustangs I decided to ask around on http://www.nloc.net/ (a 1st rate lightning forum). The consensus was that my oil drain(into the valve cover) was not on enough of a downward angle to drain the oil correctly and it was building up into the headunit. ............................................................
SO I decided to put it into the timing cover directly below the charger. What an ordeal that was. i pulled all the accessories(30 min) and the timing cover(10 min). But then realized about 8 years ago i had the timing cover off to fix a leak. And when i put the cover back on i had to cut and RTV the front of the pan gasket. I didnt want to do this a second time in fear of it leaking..............................so
I decided to pull the pan an put a new pan gasket on. Well my Banks driver side header would not allow me to drop the pan dow so i had to pull the header. 6 out of the 8 bolts cam out. the other 2 i just rounded the 12pt heads
.I had to take a exhaust cut off wheel and cut the head off of one and the torch and cut the head off the other. once the heads wer off i was able to slide the header off. Then the said cut bolts, just backed out by hand
. Kinda weird but anyway. Well the pan would still not come out So i jacked the engine up as far as it would go, still no go. I was hitting the bell housing. So i pulled the t-case and trans. And wouldnt you know it, still couldnt get the pan down. I had to snake my hands up into the pan and drop the oil pump and pick up tube. the i pull ed the pan, oil pump, drive shaft and pick up tube out together.
While i was in there i have always had a rear main seep so i put one of those in there since it is a 2 piece design. I sand blasted and painted the pan while it was out(had 2 bubbles of rust starting).
then trying to get the pan, oil pump,pickup tube, drive shaft, and gasket in was quite a chore. Once it was in i still had to get the drive shaftup into the distributer and hold it while picking up the pump and stating the bolts
What pain in the A$$. I never knew my hands and arms could bend like that. Once i got the pump in and torqued i put the timing cover on, then the pan up and in place.Then lowered the engine back into the mounts. Since the H2O pump was off once before(when i had the leak 8 years ago) i decided to put a NEW ford pump on.
Put all the acceories back on. put STAGE 8 grade 8 stainless 6 pt head bolt in for the headers and changed out the passenger side too without one problem
The came putting the trans back in. My truck is SO high my floor jack was not tall enough to support the trans. When i took it out it fell 2" to the jack.
So I pulled all 4 tires and set the front BJs on 2x4s and the rear shock brackets on 6x6s. The truck was now about 10" lower than originally(why did i lift the truck?.
After i got the trans, t-case, drive shafts, skid plate, fluids filled it was about midnight. that still didnt stop me from firing it up and doing so hot laps up and down the road.
I dont know what Vortech did but now you hear the boost and it is even faster than before!!!!!!
Now i am just looking for some gauges and a pod mount to hold boost, fuel pressure and A/F
) my front seal decided to take a crap. So i pull the head unit and sent it to Vortech to be rebuilt. Come to find out the bearings were bad which in turn streached the seal and created the leak. But the housing was shot too. The bearing just fell out instead of needing to be pressed out, so it got a new housing too.Anyway, since the superchargers are a lil more common on 1st gen lightnings and mustangs I decided to ask around on http://www.nloc.net/ (a 1st rate lightning forum). The consensus was that my oil drain(into the valve cover) was not on enough of a downward angle to drain the oil correctly and it was building up into the headunit. ............................................................
SO I decided to put it into the timing cover directly below the charger. What an ordeal that was. i pulled all the accessories(30 min) and the timing cover(10 min). But then realized about 8 years ago i had the timing cover off to fix a leak. And when i put the cover back on i had to cut and RTV the front of the pan gasket. I didnt want to do this a second time in fear of it leaking..............................so
I decided to pull the pan an put a new pan gasket on. Well my Banks driver side header would not allow me to drop the pan dow so i had to pull the header. 6 out of the 8 bolts cam out. the other 2 i just rounded the 12pt heads
.I had to take a exhaust cut off wheel and cut the head off of one and the torch and cut the head off the other. once the heads wer off i was able to slide the header off. Then the said cut bolts, just backed out by hand. Kinda weird but anyway. Well the pan would still not come out So i jacked the engine up as far as it would go, still no go. I was hitting the bell housing. So i pulled the t-case and trans. And wouldnt you know it, still couldnt get the pan down. I had to snake my hands up into the pan and drop the oil pump and pick up tube. the i pull ed the pan, oil pump, drive shaft and pick up tube out together.While i was in there i have always had a rear main seep so i put one of those in there since it is a 2 piece design. I sand blasted and painted the pan while it was out(had 2 bubbles of rust starting).
then trying to get the pan, oil pump,pickup tube, drive shaft, and gasket in was quite a chore. Once it was in i still had to get the drive shaftup into the distributer and hold it while picking up the pump and stating the bolts
What pain in the A$$. I never knew my hands and arms could bend like that. Once i got the pump in and torqued i put the timing cover on, then the pan up and in place.Then lowered the engine back into the mounts. Since the H2O pump was off once before(when i had the leak 8 years ago) i decided to put a NEW ford pump on.
Put all the acceories back on. put STAGE 8 grade 8 stainless 6 pt head bolt in for the headers and changed out the passenger side too without one problem
The came putting the trans back in. My truck is SO high my floor jack was not tall enough to support the trans. When i took it out it fell 2" to the jack.
So I pulled all 4 tires and set the front BJs on 2x4s and the rear shock brackets on 6x6s. The truck was now about 10" lower than originally(why did i lift the truck?
.After i got the trans, t-case, drive shafts, skid plate, fluids filled it was about midnight. that still didnt stop me from firing it up and doing so hot laps up and down the road.
I dont know what Vortech did but now you hear the boost and it is even faster than before!!!!!!
Now i am just looking for some gauges and a pod mount to hold boost, fuel pressure and A/F
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