E4OD shifting issues, Wont go into third

[HS108]

So Im gonna start another E4OD thread, as if sadly there isnt enough of them.

I am having an issue shifting into gears, but lets rewind about a month.

Last month, a friend needed a fuse for something, I let him borrow a 10 amp fuse from my truck, I didnt have any extras, so I pulled what I thought was the radio fuse (because im a idiot and cant read) I pulled the #18 fuse for the tranny, I went about a mile or so down the road, and the truck shifted really hard, and thats when I noticed, hey you dummy! So I stopped and got new 10 amp fuses. Put them in and everything works great again.

So now were are about 200+ miles on the truck after that day, now all of a sudden it wont shift into 2nd on its own, just revvs real high to about 3k and stays there, if I let off the gas it will up shift into second, but once its in second it wont go past that even if I try the left off the gas trick.

I got a new TPS/FIPL from Napa, and put it on, still the same issue. I am not 100% that it is set at the correct voltage, so I will double check that tomorrow. I am also gonna check the connection on the pass side into the tranny to make sure it looks good. I am also gonna change the diff fluid and the VSS. I will try all this in stages so I can hopefully figure out which one solves the problem.

My OD light is NOT blinking and this is a Ford Reman tranny with 60K miles on it

 

[HS108]

also can someone confirm this is the VSS sensor I need for my rear diff?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Vehicle-Speed-Sensor/_/R-ECHVSS743_0354818536

thats what mine in the rear diff looks like except mine only has one o-ring , but it states on the website it mounts into the tranny

Or is this the one I need, but the style has changed and its got nubs on it now vs the round clyinder style
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Vehicle-Speed-Sensor/_/R-ECHVSS319_0306456567

 

[trackspeeder]

How is the fluid level and condition.

The feed bolts could have backed off. If they back off they can do this. Next there will be no forward gears. Reverse will work fine.

 

[HS108]

The feed bolts?

The fluid is nice and red, not burnt or dark. I couldnt get a good reading while it was running and in Neutral, the whole plastic tip would be coated with oil when I pulled it out, I doubt its overfull, and I dont leak tranny fluid so I shouldnt be low, but will check again tomorrow, and start with a cold reading, and see If I can get a better one

 

[direwulf23]

When I tried replacing the VSS on my 2wd 94, mounted in the rear diff pumpkin, I had a hard time tracking down the right part. Mine has a metal bracket and every part store gave me one with a thick plastic bracket. That part definitely did not work and I had to go to Rock Auto to find the right part.

 

[gandalf]

The VSS, on the rear differential, has apparently changed over the years. There seem to be several variations.

I have a picture of the VSS from my '92 CCLB. It's an E4OD, so it must have the VSS to run properly. Does the VSS in a '94 look different? I can't tell you. All I can offer is this, from my '92.

 

[HS108]

Thanks gandalf, that too is what mine looks like. I'm going to buy the top one as that looks to be the closest to the right part, I may stop by the stealership to check on parts as well, I also want to upgrade to the super duty diff cover, so gonna check on prices in buying the kit from diesel manor vs making my own kit

 

[direwulf23]

That's what mine looks like but it is all plastic except that metal bracket. Autozone, Advanced, and O'Reilly insisted there was only one for my truck with a thick plastic bracket. I tried that one and my truck went crazy. I didn't try the stealership but Rock Auto is were I found it.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Quit throwing parts at it. Pull the codes. Since the fuse seems to have caused the problem, check it, maybe the contacts on it are bent and don't pass voltage, I know there hard to remove sometimes, don't pull the fuse out, with a VOM and KOEO, you can check just touching the little contacts on top of the fuse. If the VSS is bad, the speedo won't register. If the tach don't register, you won't show RPM's. On a 94 there is a PCM relay under the hood also a fuse, IIRC. Second gear and reverse is hydraulic shifted when shifted into those positions by the shift lever.
trackspeeder said.

The feed bolts could have backed off. If they back off they can do this. Next there will be no forward gears. Reverse will work fine.

It's not likely, but possible. From what happened with the fuse removed, sounds like an electrical problem.

 

[HS108]

But Oldbull I like to part dart lol

Ok, so update for today.

I Adjusted the FIPL/TPS. It was set at 1.25 and a clean sweep to 4.05 / I adjusted it down a little bit and got it right at 1.2V at idle and a clean sweep to 4.05 at WOT. I also pulled the plug that goes into the tranny, it was a little grimy from what I assume is the grease they apply. So I clean it out with a little electric cleaner and let it dry and plug it back in. I also pull the VSS, wipe it clean and spray it off. I button everything back up and take it for a spin.

Now, I said I was gonna test each one seperate, but I had to go into work early today, so was short on time.

I start out driving, nothing has changed, still reving to 3k and no shift, if I let off the gas it will upshift to 2nd, but still wont go into 3rd, and I got it up to 3.5+k and still no shift, So ive driven about 2 miles 3 tops. I try to shift it from 1st to 2nd manually, works fine, but when I go into D, still wont go into 3rd.

So I start to call it a day, as I dont want to drive it too much with the tranny acting up. As im heading back home I noticed it drop into 3rd gear finally, then I keep going a little faster and it goes into OD. ***? So I start driving it more and more, it starts to shift normal and smooth through all the gears.... Drove it this way for maybe 4 more miles and all fine normal shifts.

I was gonna drive it to the fire house tonight, but decided not too. I am gonna start it tomorrow and see if the problem still happens, or maybe only when the trans is cold.

Im at a loss here? I find it funny that this time last year I had a very similar issue with the trans, but that time it threw a blinking OD light, and once we cleared the code it was fine.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...ull-codes-Overdrive-light-blinking&highlight=

I also found out, I am one of the unlucky ones with an E4OD with no drain plug so If I ever have to drop it, its gonna be messy.

 

[BDCarrillo]

1&2 can be mechanically actuated, 3rd requires hydraulic pressure.... are you starting with the shifter in D?? If so, you may have cooked your tranny already by revving the **** out of it...

If you're starting with the lever in manual 1 or manual 2, then the hard parts are probably OK. You get to chase electrical gremlins. Check the solenoid connector pack (unplug, clean, dielectric grease, and re-plug in) since you've hit all the sensors already...

Please stop revving the crap out of something that's not working right... sometimes these E4ODs (when acting up) start in third or overdrive and you can break stuff easily and cook clutches/steels revving it to hell and back.

 

[trackspeeder]

Electrical, Solenoid S2. Mechanical Direct clutch or the 2-3 shift valve is stuck.

Manual one and two, will rule out the feed bolts.

 

[HS108]

Ok so update day 3:

So I fire up the truck, and let it run for a couple mins, just to get the juices flowing. My goal here is to test the trans again, with a semi-cold trans fluid temp, at least not up to full operating temp, so I can see if it was a cold fluid issue.

I shift through all the gears, I can hear the trans engage them all, so I put it back in D, and hit the gas. Just a quick trip around the block.. All normal shifts, no hard shifts. So I go down the street a little, still all normal. After a few mins of driving I decide ill take a quick video, as I still think it maybe revving a little high before a shift but I could just be paranoid about it.

According to this chart from a post by Oldbull

To test the shift points do this. With a warm engine. With transmission Shifted into Drive or OD.
Slowly accellerate up to 45 MPH. You should feel the shift points as follows.

0 to 12-14 MPH ---- Shifts from 1st to 2nd.

12-14 to 25-27 MPH ---- Shifts from 2nd to 3rd, also TC lock up.

27 to 36-38 MPH ----Shifts into OD

The voltage setting on the TPS/FIPL will give you harsh or smooth shifts.

.96 to 1.01 ---- Smooth------------1.01 to 1.03 ----- Harsh or quicker.

With engine OFF and key ON -- Rotate the TPS by hand, voltage should NOT exceed 4.5 at WOT. There should be NO dead spots while rotating.

I feel that my trans is right in line with those numbers, however I think my high RPM at shift maybe due to my setting of the TPS/FIPL at 1.2 volts. There is so much conflicting info out there on the forums as to what it should be set at.

This is the Tech article I used to set the FIPL
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-(TPS)-Sensor-Trouble-Shooting-amp-Adjustment

I have video of my drive, and will post when its done updating

 

[OLDBULL8]

Ya don't think I'd give ya the wrong info. That's correct as above.

however I think my high RPM at ****

How ever, don't know what is meant by that?

EDIT: How fast do you want to get to 45MPH?
With a hot tranny. Cold tranny you get no lockup until temp reaches about 120*F.

0 to 45MPH = Peddle floored 3000 RPM, shifting goes 2nd bang 3rd bang OD bang.

0 to 45MPH = Half peddle 2000 RPM, shifting goes smooth 2nd 1500 RPM a little peddle back up to 1500 RPM to 3rd and lockup, a little more peddle 2000 RPM your in OD, back down to 1500 RPM, then how fast do you want to go.

All shifting points relative to RPM depend on vehicle weight, uphill, down hill, flat, head wind, tail wind, how heavy the foot is and how quick do you want to get there.

 

[HS108]

OK thanks, I think I'm just still paranoid about the high RPM shift because I'm paying so close attention to my shifts, where I normally just take a shift for granted.

The question I think I was trying to asked was should I leave it at 1.2 volts or should I try to adjust it down to a lower voltage. I'm thinking about just leaving it alone, as it's working, so don't fix what ain't broke

Thanks for all your help and info bull, the speed chart is a huge help.

Here is a video of the truck at 1/4 throttle on flat road. I also have 4.10s in the rear

https://youtu.be/iKbqiHIEnVM