Ford apparently no longer sells remanufactured E4OD transmissions anymore... I've had two dealerships look for them and they can see it in the system but it is now an obsolete part and cannot be gotten anywhere. Therefore, if you have an E4OD you are screwed out on a a factory reman unit. I swear I'm about ready to have this truck towed to the scrap yard at this point.
E4OD guidance needed
- Thread starter Chrono558
- Start date
Interesting.You might ask if they still offer diesel 4R100's.You could use one of those with a few changes (converter,on/off pump mod/shift linkage/range sensor/solenoid pack) however,that may not be the best option because once you change the stuff to make it an E4OD,it would no doubt,void your warranty.
Call around your local trans shops.There's lots of guys capable of rebuilding these.This is how I had the one in my chip truck rebuilt.Price was around 3k installed for the major upgrades w/ triple locking converter,tugger kit,4r cooler bypass,large aux cooler.
Call around your local trans shops.There's lots of guys capable of rebuilding these.This is how I had the one in my chip truck rebuilt.Price was around 3k installed for the major upgrades w/ triple locking converter,tugger kit,4r cooler bypass,large aux cooler.
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Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
If I were in your shoes, I would really consider a ZF-5 swap.
If your set on an auto transmission, go find a used C6 for around $200 and get it rebuilt & slap it in. It'll cost you at most $1500 to rebuild a C6. Yeah there's no OD, but those transmissions can hold 500 hp in stock form and are bulletproof.
Your mpg won't go down much like everyone thinks. I still got 17mpg with my 6.9 C6 f250.
If your set on an auto transmission, go find a used C6 for around $200 and get it rebuilt & slap it in. It'll cost you at most $1500 to rebuild a C6. Yeah there's no OD, but those transmissions can hold 500 hp in stock form and are bulletproof.
Your mpg won't go down much like everyone thinks. I still got 17mpg with my 6.9 C6 f250.
raydav
Full Access Member
And your cruise RPM will go up about 50%; 30% for no OD and 20% for no converter lock.
I just got an AODe from these guys. I have not installed it but they sound like they know what they are doing.
http://www.transdepot.net/FORD-DIESEL-TRANSMISSIONS_c_282.html
But I have a functioning diesel C6 I have no use for if anyone is interested.
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I ended up calling around to some of the transmission rebuilders in the area and explained the situation and that we're dealing with a first year E4OD. One shop in particular I had heard mentioned but never have used them before (never had to have a transmission rebuilt until now). The person gave the run down on what all they would replace (regardless of condition) on an E4OD and do all the updates that the later years received (primarily using an updated kit from Sonnax) along with a new pump. He also mentioned (recommended actually) on using a billet torque converter (my choice of single or triple disc) and that more than likely they will source a 93-94 year transmission case since the first year was prone to warpage among other issues. Given the previous owner had a fifth wheel in the bed, it wouldn't surprise me on that.
For him to rebuild it would be $2,500 (with torque converter and a sourced case if needed) and a 2 year/24K mile warranty. A reman Jasper would run me about $2,800. From what I can tell online on what Jasper does to their E4OD remans, it doesn't seem like a whole lot to be honest. I think I'll give it a shot on the rebuild. I really don't want a ZF5 unit in this truck (too much work at this point to convert).
Also... sorry for being a little snippy in my previous posting.
For him to rebuild it would be $2,500 (with torque converter and a sourced case if needed) and a 2 year/24K mile warranty. A reman Jasper would run me about $2,800. From what I can tell online on what Jasper does to their E4OD remans, it doesn't seem like a whole lot to be honest. I think I'll give it a shot on the rebuild. I really don't want a ZF5 unit in this truck (too much work at this point to convert).
Also... sorry for being a little snippy in my previous posting.
There you go.You found a guy that knows these trans.Go with him.You want the triple locking with the billet cover,converter.
I wonder if he installs this kit then,since he likes and knows the sonnax stuff.
Sonnax Zip Kit® - E4OD-4R100-ZIP
The Transgo tugger is an awesome kit but if he knows those well,there's no doubt,those will transform the trans too and make it perform far better than the mushy,oem car mode.
Ask for an F5 (reman is good and will keep cost down) high volume pump.
You can install an 4R100 bypass kit with 3/8 lines yourself after the rebuild,if that's not included.It's easy and fun to install.So long as you have a double flaring,brake line tool.
I wonder if he installs this kit then,since he likes and knows the sonnax stuff.
Sonnax Zip Kit® - E4OD-4R100-ZIP
The Transgo tugger is an awesome kit but if he knows those well,there's no doubt,those will transform the trans too and make it perform far better than the mushy,oem car mode.
Ask for an F5 (reman is good and will keep cost down) high volume pump.
You can install an 4R100 bypass kit with 3/8 lines yourself after the rebuild,if that's not included.It's easy and fun to install.So long as you have a double flaring,brake line tool.
The rebuilder actually told me to use a specific Tru-Cool cooler for my truck or a cooler from a 6.0L Powerstroke along with upgrading to 3/8" lines at a minimum, so that will be the very next thing I install when I get my truck back. I do think the Sonnax Zip kit was the one he was referring to over the phone.
Don't scrap it! Contact Tommie Vaughn Ford: http://www.tommievaughnford.com/parts/index.htm they should be able to help if it's possible. I really hope you can get one, an '89 recently caught my eye and as much as I enjoy shifting for myself I'm not such a fan of doing it in Houston traffic and tend to break stuff - I went through a clutch master and two slaves in less than 10K on my '90.
Eli
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The Tru Cool cooler your builder recommended would be the Ford V10 cooler without the Ford brackets. It's a little smaller than a 6.oh cooler. It works just as well, and is a little easier to install.
Epic 3 month bump!
I finally have the truck back (don't ask why it took this long) but I have run into a new issue. Whenever I shift the transmission into reverse it will immediately blow fuse #5 (15 amp). If I quickly shift from park to drive it won't blow the fuse, only if I go to reverse. Fuse #5 controls the tail lights, turn signals, reverse lights and I believe the ignition power for the TECA.
My initial assumption was that the wiring for the reverse lights got shorted to ground somewhere (they've never worked since I've owned the truck) and I removed the black/pink wire from the MLPS connector, but it is still popping the fuse when shifting into reverse. The MLPS sensor and wiring connector have been replaced and now I'm wondering if I the wires in the MLPS connector are in the wrong position.
I have tried searching for what the wiring diagram needs to be when using a newer MLPS sensor but I'm having difficultly finding what wires should go where now. Does anybody have that wiring diagram or can tell me what the wiring pinout should be now on my truck when using a new style MLPS and connector?
I finally have the truck back (don't ask why it took this long) but I have run into a new issue. Whenever I shift the transmission into reverse it will immediately blow fuse #5 (15 amp). If I quickly shift from park to drive it won't blow the fuse, only if I go to reverse. Fuse #5 controls the tail lights, turn signals, reverse lights and I believe the ignition power for the TECA.
My initial assumption was that the wiring for the reverse lights got shorted to ground somewhere (they've never worked since I've owned the truck) and I removed the black/pink wire from the MLPS connector, but it is still popping the fuse when shifting into reverse. The MLPS sensor and wiring connector have been replaced and now I'm wondering if I the wires in the MLPS connector are in the wrong position.
I have tried searching for what the wiring diagram needs to be when using a newer MLPS sensor but I'm having difficultly finding what wires should go where now. Does anybody have that wiring diagram or can tell me what the wiring pinout should be now on my truck when using a new style MLPS and connector?
Get those reverse lights working I bet that’s your issue. Someone will chime in with the diagram, I bet @icanfixall has them
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
Just a heads up I purchased my truck that the po put a jasper reman trans in with their required trans cooler. I use my truck solely for towing and the trans works like a dream. Doesn’t get hot (gauge verified) and shifts staring and hard and the tcc works perfectly. I wouldn’t be scared of a jasper trans. I have the banks trans commander but I don’t know how much of a difference it really makes
From what I can determine, the MLPS sensor was replaced with a newer style sensor and has the matching wiring connector for it. Using the last pinout diagram in the picture referenced here: https://www.oilburners.net/posts/479945/ I re-wired my connector to match. My truck is 2wd so there was no Red/White wire for the 4x4 module. The wire that I did not see is the GY/R but did see a Black wire with a white tracer instead and used it. I am now no longer blowing fuse #5 when shifting to reverse but now I have two new issues:
The first new issue is the truck will not crank over in park, but will crank in neutral. I have verified that the MLPS is adjusted correctly (lines match up in neutral perfectly). I'm wondering if the MLPS was bad out of the box or if I still have the wiring screwed up on it.
The second issue is that the transmission is now upshifting a little later and harsher than it was when I drove it home a few days ago. It is not as harsh as if it was in limp mode but still much more firm now than when it was. The FILP sensor was replaced with a new motorcraft unit and idle voltage is 1.08v, WOT is 4.1v so it should be well within the voltage range.
I'm not sure if I still have my MLPS wiring wrong or not. Does anybody know how I can test the wiring at the MLPS connector to make sure I have everything correct? I'm open to any ideas/testing. Thanks.
The first new issue is the truck will not crank over in park, but will crank in neutral. I have verified that the MLPS is adjusted correctly (lines match up in neutral perfectly). I'm wondering if the MLPS was bad out of the box or if I still have the wiring screwed up on it.
The second issue is that the transmission is now upshifting a little later and harsher than it was when I drove it home a few days ago. It is not as harsh as if it was in limp mode but still much more firm now than when it was. The FILP sensor was replaced with a new motorcraft unit and idle voltage is 1.08v, WOT is 4.1v so it should be well within the voltage range.
I'm not sure if I still have my MLPS wiring wrong or not. Does anybody know how I can test the wiring at the MLPS connector to make sure I have everything correct? I'm open to any ideas/testing. Thanks.
The more I drive it, the better the upshifts are getting. They started out harsh but are getting to where they are more where they should be as I'm driving around in it. My guess is the TECA is re-learning its adaptive shifting. I'm still leaning towards the MLPS being bad as the reason it does not crank in park but will crank in neutral, despite being adjusted correctly. It would help if I could see a diagram of the MLPS or starter circuit to see how they interact with each other.
Overall, I'm being cautiously optimistic at this point. Lord knows after 3 months that's difficult to do...
Overall, I'm being cautiously optimistic at this point. Lord knows after 3 months that's difficult to do...
Time for some closure.
I re-pinned the connector for the MLPS switch using the bottom diagram here: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/e4od-mlps-wiring.42601/#post-479945, but discovered that this did not match what was needed on the new Motorcraft MLPS (SW5978) switch I purchased for my truck. Long story short, the wiring had to be reversed according to how the diagram has it shown, so Pin #1 and #5 need to swap sides, Pin #2 and #6 swap, etc. all down the connector. I verified this by using a multimeter set to ohms/resistance and probed the different pin pairs while moving the MLPS switch to the different positions and took notes. In the end, the picture below is how I had to wire mine:
To help determine this, Pins #1 and #4 in the diagram above will only close the circuit when the MLPS is in neutral position. Pins #5 and #8 in the diagram above will be closed in park AND neutral. This is how I figured out on my switch which side my W/PK and R/LB wires needed to go on and then it was easy from there. On a side note, my SIG-RTN wire color on my '89 F250 was colored black with a white stripe, but it still went back to the TECA (verified by checking resistance between the TECA and MLPS). If your truck is a 2WD like mine, then you may not have anything in Pins #1 or #4, or you may have cut wires in the harness for those two spots. From what I was able to gather, these pins/wires are only applicable if you have a push button 4WD. The SW5978 switch also came with a rubber weatherpack that has 6 holes (Pins #1 and #4 are blocked off) instead of the 8 so this would seem to confirm that those pins only apply to 4WD trucks.
Once I installed the new switch and re-pinned the wiring connector, the transmission immediately started shifting correctly and smoothly! I've been driving it for 2 days now and all is well (finally) and for the first time since I've owned the truck the reverse lights now work! My guess is the way I had it wired originally, the TECA could not see which position the gear shifter was in and was not adjusting the line pressure accordingly. In any event, it's driving like it should now and hopefully I can put this 6 month debacle to rest.
So... long story short:
First Round:
New TECA - old one had blown capacitor
New Relay/Socket for TECA - old socket was worn beyond fixing - Replaced with one of these that works great
Fixed miscellaneous wiring near TECA thanks to finding a rats nest
Replaced solenoid pack and wiring harness for solenoid pack
Second Round:
Rebuilt Transmission
Replaced solenoid wiring harness again (shop that replaced it in First Round broke the locking tab on the harness and did a ****-poor job of splicing it in)
Replaced MLPS sensor and re-wired correctly
Replaced FIPL sensor (could not adjust idle voltage anymore and it was factory original)
Hopefully the info in this thread will help someone in the future. The only thing left is to install a transmission cooler and temperature gauge, but that'll be for another thread. Thanks everyone and have a Merry Christmas!
I re-pinned the connector for the MLPS switch using the bottom diagram here: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/e4od-mlps-wiring.42601/#post-479945, but discovered that this did not match what was needed on the new Motorcraft MLPS (SW5978) switch I purchased for my truck. Long story short, the wiring had to be reversed according to how the diagram has it shown, so Pin #1 and #5 need to swap sides, Pin #2 and #6 swap, etc. all down the connector. I verified this by using a multimeter set to ohms/resistance and probed the different pin pairs while moving the MLPS switch to the different positions and took notes. In the end, the picture below is how I had to wire mine:
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To help determine this, Pins #1 and #4 in the diagram above will only close the circuit when the MLPS is in neutral position. Pins #5 and #8 in the diagram above will be closed in park AND neutral. This is how I figured out on my switch which side my W/PK and R/LB wires needed to go on and then it was easy from there. On a side note, my SIG-RTN wire color on my '89 F250 was colored black with a white stripe, but it still went back to the TECA (verified by checking resistance between the TECA and MLPS). If your truck is a 2WD like mine, then you may not have anything in Pins #1 or #4, or you may have cut wires in the harness for those two spots. From what I was able to gather, these pins/wires are only applicable if you have a push button 4WD. The SW5978 switch also came with a rubber weatherpack that has 6 holes (Pins #1 and #4 are blocked off) instead of the 8 so this would seem to confirm that those pins only apply to 4WD trucks.
Once I installed the new switch and re-pinned the wiring connector, the transmission immediately started shifting correctly and smoothly! I've been driving it for 2 days now and all is well (finally) and for the first time since I've owned the truck the reverse lights now work! My guess is the way I had it wired originally, the TECA could not see which position the gear shifter was in and was not adjusting the line pressure accordingly. In any event, it's driving like it should now and hopefully I can put this 6 month debacle to rest.
So... long story short:
First Round:
New TECA - old one had blown capacitor
New Relay/Socket for TECA - old socket was worn beyond fixing - Replaced with one of these that works great
Fixed miscellaneous wiring near TECA thanks to finding a rats nest
Replaced solenoid pack and wiring harness for solenoid pack
Second Round:
Rebuilt Transmission
Replaced solenoid wiring harness again (shop that replaced it in First Round broke the locking tab on the harness and did a ****-poor job of splicing it in)
Replaced MLPS sensor and re-wired correctly
Replaced FIPL sensor (could not adjust idle voltage anymore and it was factory original)
Hopefully the info in this thread will help someone in the future. The only thing left is to install a transmission cooler and temperature gauge, but that'll be for another thread. Thanks everyone and have a Merry Christmas!
