Okay Quick up date. So I rechecked my solenoid pack. I put the positive lead of the multimeter to the 12v on my test plug. Then put the negative lead to the 1st gear solenoid got 19.8oms. The 2nd and 3rd and tcc got 20oms on them three... For the epc I am reading 0oms but only from the 12v pin that powers the trans.... From pin 11 which apparently is epc~ to pin 12 epc+ I have 5.0oms. So I think the selonoid are all good. Please correct me if I did this test wrong. I am going to see if I can get a gauge to check line pressures tomorrow.
E40D help please!
- Thread starter Texas27
- Start date
david85
Full Access Member
Yup, those sound like they're within spec as far as the coils themselves are concerned.
My son's early 1994 F250 7.3 4X4 E4OD started shifting bad and slipping. Tried most everything. Key was the engine running hotter than usual.
Pulled the thermostat and found the plastic wrap was a mess. Maybe not letting the thermostat work proper. Put in a new thermostat.
Engine back to normal temperature and no more transmission problems.
Pulled the thermostat and found the plastic wrap was a mess. Maybe not letting the thermostat work proper. Put in a new thermostat.
Engine back to normal temperature and no more transmission problems.
ReticulateSplines
Registered User
I went through some similar issues with mine for a long time, I just kinda babied it along for a while - checking and changing the FIPL settings and eventually just assuming my trans is on its way out....
The biggest change I made was ditching the over size tires and replace with OE - the lugging out VS hard shift extremes cleared up and the trans started to behave
The biggest change I made was ditching the over size tires and replace with OE - the lugging out VS hard shift extremes cleared up and the trans started to behave
Thank for the advice guy. I will check out the thermostat tomorrow I’ll actually just replace it I have been meaning to since I bought the truck and it did come with 35” tires they are almost beat so I think I will go down a bit. It’s odd for the fact that I have found if I let off the fuel rite at 2200rpm it shift nice and smooth without any problems. It feels like I’m driving a stick with out the stick lol. But it’s working for now. A rebuild is coming soon. I will post a thread on how it goes and if it fixes the problem.
gandalf
Senior Member
When you replace the thermostat on these IDI engines, be absolutely sure to use ONLY Motorcraft thermostats. Use ONLY the genuine Ford thermostat. Forum members have tried all the others, and have found them all to be inadequate. All the others simple aren't up to the job.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Any thoughts on using a 205 degree thermostat? This far North, heating is the concern, not cooling.
gandalf
Senior Member
I personally can't see the advantage of having the thermostat open at 205*F rather than 190*F. Granted, it allows the engine to warm up an additional 15*F before opening, but once the engine hits 190*F it's not going to cool down noticeably, for any length of time, when that thermostat opens.
If you really want it to run hotter overall, I'd suggest perhaps a winter front cover in front of the radiator. That will block a great deal of the cold air as you drive.
I realize it gets cold there, know it from my own experience. I spent one year NW of Fairbanks, at Murphy Dome.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
We definitely use the winter front! Running a little hotter means hotter air coming out of the heater. I used to do that with my VW diesels, and it helped quite a bit, but we couldn't get it above freezing inside if it was -40. These big V8s make a lot more heat, but during a cold spell it stays pretty cool in the cab. At least it gets above freezing!
