E350 7.3 idi engine replacement

[IDIBRONCO]

Was the heater used prior to the blended gas? Is the heater needed?

I'm not much on diesel history, but I think there was blended fuel WAY before our IDIs came out. The fuel heaters aren't very effective, if they are at all. The results are debated. I can say this though, The majority of our fuel systems are before the fuel heater. That right there tells me that they don't really do much at all. The 7.3 heaters were on top of the fuel filter housing which is the highest point in the fuel system, unless you're Jesus Freak and try to mount a fuel tank on top of the cab to gravity feed fuel (with no way to get the return fuel pushed back into the tank). Heat rises so why put a heater on the highest point in the fuel system? I also am pretty sure that the heaters only work when the key's on which leaves most of the time for the fuel to cool back off. My answer to your question is no, they aren't needed. I don't use one, my 1985 truck doesn't even have the wiring to try to use a 7.3 style heater. I have had issues, but it was due to the wind hitting the steel fuel lines underneath the truck, not for lack of fuel heater usage.

how valuable is the schrader valve?

I think it's pretty valuable. That's what helps you bleed the air out when you open the fuel system for some reason such as changing the fuel filter. In fact, I don't fill my fuel filters. I turn on the key and let the electric pump push the fuel into the filter.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Seems odd as I thought I would want to catch debri before entering the electronic lift pump.

You want to use two. One before the pump and one before the engine in case something in the pump sends debris toward the engine.

 

[VanGo]

It’s a slow day at work… doing more investigation per AI.

All will be fine if I use a 100 micron filter before the lift pump. The main thing is that at least 1/2” fuel
Line must be used. Sounds like the fuel line size is most important anything smaller would be the bottle neck.

Hopefully I am on the right track

 

[VanGo]

IDI bronco thanks for your feedback.
I happened to see a small plug on the bus bracket. I will go back and check to see if that can be used or opened up and tapped for a schrader valve.

100 micron prefilter>airdog pump> fuel filter> water separator

I may be able to just use the bus bracket and filter, I will see if I can get a bleeder valve inserted someway.

IDI Bronco Do you have a build thread or photos of the bronco on the forum?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I happened to see a small plug on the bus bracket. I will go back and check to see if that can be used or opened up and tapped for a schrader valve.

It probably used to have one. They all came out with mechanical lift pumps so that would have been mandatory for filter changes.

IDI Bronco Do you have a build thread or photos of the bronco on the forum?

There might be a few pictures somewhere, but I didn't make a build thread. I only joined for research in 2009 and I built it in late 2009 and summer 2010. I can say that during 2010, when I did the engine/trans/transfer swap, wiring swap, and the fuel system, I worked on it every day starting the weeks after Memorial Day until about 1.5 weeks before Labor Day. Sometimes, it was only a couple of hours, sometimes it was 12+. There was more than one time that I needed to turn on lights in order to pick up all of my tools to put them away because it was so dark. Honestly, it didn't cost all that much. I already owned the Bronco. I had a couple of donor trucks, one I owned and wrecked, the other was given to me. There was the vast majority of the cost. It was done using factory Ford parts.

 

[VanGo]

Factory parts is a good option to keep the cost down.

As I price all the components for the fuel system I am shocked on the cost of a DYI set up. I guess it’s a diesel thing. And I hear this is actually a cheaper engine to work on.

Modern diesel upgrades most likely will put a much larger dent in the pocketbook

I want to use this Van regularly, with the cost of vehicles today I guess it justifies spending a bit to make an older vehicle more Dependable.
And… it’s more fun doing upgrades rather than repairs.

I have a newer gen6 Bronco however with these small turboed engines I am having my doubts on how long these things will last.

Ed

 

[IDIBRONCO]

with the cost of vehicles today I guess it justifies spending a bit to make an older vehicle more Dependable.
And… it’s more fun doing upgrades rather than repairs.

That's my feelings exactly. That was the reason for me starting my "Who's Smarter?" thread a few years back. I feel like people have been looking down on these engines ever since the PSD came out. Most people feel that it's all about power and not dependability. 700-800 HP in new diesel sounds cool to me, but I also know that I'll never use all of that power and I sure don't want to pay $80,000+ to have it just to brag about.

 

[VanGo]

I was down a vehicle when I ordered my Bronco, I picked up a used xj. I paid up a bit due to it being rust free from out west. I have had it several years, even my wife won’t let me get rid of it now.

When it was time for her to get another vehicle, we decided to put it off a bit since she works from the home. She has the Bronco and I have been using the xj. It changed my mind on older vehicles. It still has crank up windows
It’s a fantastic vehicle, everywhere I go someone wants to purchase it.
After this… the clean van seemed like a no brainer but… it is more work than I anticipated.

XJ When purchased…
I have to Becareful… I am running out of room to store vehicles (I have yet another bronco project that’s been sitting for several years now.
I labeled it as my retirement project.
That wiill be after the van.

 

[VanGo]

After a lot of thought I came up with a plan for the fuel set up that appears to be a middle ground solution.

I ordered a goldenrod 495 housing with see through bowl that will have the screen mesh as a prefilter.
I ordered the universal airdog 100gph/ 8psi.

I will run the stock fuel assembly with the fuel filter and water drain

When I get back to the shop if the simple bus fuel filter assembly can be set up with the schrader valve I will use that.

Saves a bit from the extra housings filters and associated fittings and hoses.

With this I can always go back and add the additional fuel filter and water separator down on the frame if ever needed.

Hopefully this will be a good compromise .
Parts are ordered…

 

[VanGo]

Still working on here and there.
Need to buy belt, hoses, put harness in. Getting closer

 

[VanGo]

I found air dog also made
A feed line kit that that I ordered to add directly to original tank to support 1/2” Feed line requirement.

Although I May not use the see through prefilter as I originally planned since I will have to add several reducer fittings. I will probably just put a simple Mesh screen filter before the lift pump.

 

[VanGo]

Pulled the tank. Added the new 5/8” feed tube for 1/2” fuel line. Checked out the fuel tank for delamination… it’s in nice shape, and has a nice coating that also in nice shape. Very clean… 15 gallons of diesel fuel was also looking good. Hopefully can put the tank back in tomorrow

 

[VanGo]

Well getting very close…. Have to get the wiring back on, and a couple pieces of return line. Then try to get it to turn over..

It stinks only being able to work on it 1 day a week. Once it is drivable at least I can take home which will allow me to do a few things on the van after a work day.

My friend has been a big help.

 

[VanGo]

Can anyone describe the routing of the return lines in stock form?
Interested in how they would have been ran from the fuel housing, and how it came off the IP pump. Non turbo… I guessing one came from fuel housing to passenger side corner injector and the ip went to the drivers side injector-
I have the classic diesel kit that joins with a t barb front and back that t’s into line to tank line

Some of this vehicle was already apart when I picked up, will have to find a manual on this vehicle may be helpful.

Also since I am new to this how much fuel ends up going through the return lines? Droplets, constant flow. Just trying to get an idea on what to expect.


Reason; I am thinking I may just use the bus filter housing as it does not have anything extra just inlet and outlet,

Thanks

 

[VanGo]

And another question. Trying to figure out if I have an issue with the new glow plug controller. I have old from both the van and the bus so with all wires attached , I am fairly confident wires are hooked properly

I test large post and it is hot (always). When turning key on the post with the smaller red wires become hot, I also checked the plug for the wait light and it shows hot(pulses)

I was thinking that this then makes the yellow wire hot on the bus bar for the glow plugs however i do not hear a click nor does the yellow wire on the bus bar get hot or warm

I brought an older one home and will watch a video on how to test via multimeter And go back and duplicate next time I get there

But good to hear any feedback
I am unaware if I should at least hear a click or if due to summer temps the glow plugs do not need to be activated at all?

I purchased new glow plug harness,controller,glow plugs and a new hot wire from starter relay- I checked fuse in fuse box under hood-

I keep reading about fusible links, I don’t see anything in the engine harness it is quite simple, ( I copied the old wire that went to the relay from the starter solenoid to make a new one)
*I am starting to think that factory originally had two wires with fuseable links?* rather than a single hot wire….

The wait to start on the dash is not working either I may have to trace wires, I know the plug gets power,