Drop the tank or lift the bed?

[Mad Maxine]

Hi folks--
Putting a sending unit in my rear tank this weekend (I hope). I've noticed in my previous threads that some guys have mentioned lifting the bed to do that job. How is such a thing done? I am assuming it requires a hoist or an A-frame, of which, I have neither. It sounds easier than dropping the tank, but not sure I can do it by myself with the tools I have.
Any guidance is appreciated.

 

[BDCarrillo]

You can do it with a couple buddies, sawhorses, and some 8' 2x4s.

I did it solo with an engine hoist on the tailgate and sawhorses up front. Getting the old bolts out is a nightmare PITA.

 

[sjwelds]

is a nightmare PITA.

No worse than dropping the tank(s) IMO. Doing it solo with no lifting device may be a problem....got a tree you can drive under and throw a snatch block over a branch?

A man on each corner works really well.

Don't forget to disconnect fuel fillers!!!

 

[madpogue]

Yeah +1, depends on your situation. The bed is def. an easier/cleaner way to go, but you need not only a lift (or some buddies), but a place to put the bed. Since we're on a single-wide driveway with zero extra space, I always end up dropping the tank. Hint - if you opt to drop the tank, there are actually no straps. The skid plates act as "straps". So drop one skid plate, then put a ratchet strap in its place. Then drop the other skid plate, and put a ratchet strap in its place. Then you can gradually loosen the straps to let the tank down gradually. Use the straps again to put it back, alternating the same way.

 

[gandalf]

I dropped the rear tank recently from a trailer conversion. A CCLB had been converted into a trailer, and the rear tank left in place.

I had the option of lifting the bed or dropping the tank. Lifting the bed requires at least four strong backs, and a certain amount of luck with the bed bolts. Dropping the tank requires an empty tank, a floor jack, and patience. It barely fits between the frame rails. You must know when and where to disconnect fuel lines, vent tubes, electric sender cables, and fill hose.

I dropped the tank with 3-4 gallons of fuel in it. The tank gets hard to control when the fuel sloshes around. I used my floor jack and a piece of plywood to spread the load. The control problem is compounded as the fuel load increases.

That tank will replace the rear tank in my truck. On my truck I will remove the bed because the tank is full. It weighs way too much to drop.

If you drop the tank, remember that you're working flat on your back under the truck. Wear safety goggles. Expect lots of dirt on top of the tank. It will all seem to fall onto your face.

 

[madpogue]

The tank gets hard to control when the fuel sloshes around. I used my floor jack and a piece of plywood to spread the load. The control problem is compounded as the fuel load increases.

This is where the straps come in handy. With support front-to-back, on two sides of the tank, you can (sorta) control the descent without the fuel sloshing and load shifting having as much of an effect. I found that with a jack and only one point of support (even with a board in between), it was too tipsy.

 

[IDIoit]

the front tank does have straps.

the rear is held in by the skid plate.

i opt to pull the bed when dealing with the tanks.
4 guys can lift the bed with not much effort.

i have done it by myself with the help of a forklift and with an A frame and a chain hoist.

it all depends what you have to work with.
the bed bolts can be a real *****, but once you break them loose, you wont have much of an issue in the future.

i had to do this with the tanks full, so off came the bed.

its more of a pain in the a$$ to get the fuel lines, and filler necks in place during re-instal with the bed on IMO.

either way its not a fun job.
my suggestion is to PB blaster the bed bolts, get them off, and have a few friends come help.
if one of your friends is a meathead (one that goes to the gym 5 times a day) you can do it with 3.
im mostly always solo, so equipment ends up being my best friend.

 

[laserjock]

If you look early in my build thread, you can see how I took mine off with just an engine/shop hoist and some 2x4's I have done the board and sawhorses bit also with one other person (not lifting the bed but placing the boards). You just raise it up and then drive out from under it.

 

[Mad Maxine]

Well, this sounds like fun!

Pulling the saddle tank was a drag. Worst part was getting the strap nuts off. I think they were locknuts, and the bolts were a mile long, and rusty. I was at that point where I was like "I should just fire up the compressor and roll out the hose and put an impact on it....but I've almost got it." Meanwhile, I'm huffing and puffing and cussing.

 

[IDIoit]

Meanwhile, I'm huffing and puffing and cussing.

this seems to be an automotive norm,
no matter what youre working on....
always use pneumatics when you can!!!

 

[laserjock]

I love my air tools. I don't know how I did anything without them.

I'm surprised they came off. I think I ended up breaking all of mine.

 

[madpogue]

Yeah gotta love how Ford uses bolts aprx. twice as long as they need to be in some cases. I don't have any place for air, but when I do those tank straps, I put a box wrench on the bolt head up above, then hit the nut with a 1/2" electric impact. I've gotten kind of addicted to my Ryobi 18V cordless toys... er... tools. No extension cords, no waiting for a compressor to air up.

Okay, in Ford's defense, those long bolts on the straps do make it a LITTLE easier to get the straps in place when you reinstall.

Waitaminit - I thought you were abandoning the front tank. Why are you bothering to drop it?

 

[hce]

Ive pulled boxes with 4 tie downs (non-ratchet) one on each corner. I attached the other end to the rafter in my shed. Then just keep working up each strap 3-4 inches at a time.

 

[cpdenton]

In the past, on other trucks, I have taken the bed bolts loose, left passenger side in with just a few threads still attached. Take the drivers side all the was out. Take the filler necks loose. Then just lift the drivers side up high enough to get a couple 6x6 in between the bed and frame(front and back, not stacked). This gave me some clearance to get to the sender on the rear tank. And the front too.

There is a whole lot more clearance if you can remove it completely, but that involves friends, or at least bribery.

 

[Wvdirtroad]

6 bed bolts, retainer screws for fuel ports and the bed comes off. I preheated the bolts with a torch to loosen them.. spun right off with a regular ratchet and 2ft steel bar as leverage. I took the tailgate off and secured the back of the bed to my tractors bucket, and had the GF back up the tractor while I walked the bed off the back of the truck. I see no reason why two strong guys couldn't move it. Anymore than that is icing on the cake.

For the record.. I personally wouldn't do any work on the tanks without first removing the bed. I had a heck of a time getting some bolts off when I dropped the tank and a few I opted to remove with a cutoff wheel as they were so rusted.