direct replacement fuel switch valve!!

210Tumbleweed

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Tanks...er… THANKS! Just the stocking stuffer I'm wanting...now if'n I could find a dash switch to go with?
 

tbrumm

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I would guess these are Chinese knock offs, but if they work at that price, it is a great deal compared to the $300 cost of an OEM valve.
 

WAID

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This is not compatible with 1986 and older correct? Mine is still good but figured would be nice to have a spare on hand.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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This is not compatible with 1986 and older correct? Mine is still good but figured would be nice to have a spare on hand.
All you need is the wiring harness plug off a later model and it will work fine. I have one for a 96 spliced into my 86. I paid $2 for the wiring plug at the junkyard. You will need to do this if yours ever fails since the 86 and back aren't available.
 

nelstomlinson

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Tristan

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Will not ship to Alaska.

How about mounting this off the frame, with the handle sticking up through the floor board? https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/fuel-valves/fv-6-port-series

https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/fuel-valves/fv-6-port-series/fv-65038

About $200, but not made of Chinesium, cheaper than $300 for OEM, and non-electric and should outlast all of us.

Looks familiar... I think someone on here did use that unit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Danielle

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we could send to you in alaska. Thanks for doing posting, just ordered
 

BrianX128

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Also, I put this one in my 6.9 and I'll vouch for it. My factory wiring was already destroyed. So if you don't already have a working system and want a second tank this one is great! 62$, you can use 3/8 fuel hose with clamps on everything and get rid of those air leaking push lock things.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-fuel-tank-selector-valve/fsv2a/2600542?pos=3

Comes with the switch and a wiring diagram. When you throw the switch it changes the tank and output on your dash. Only downside with it, is it doesn't mount in the factory location, but there are a few holes in the frame near the front tank that you can choose.

Factory wires are:
Yellow and blue are front tank sender
Blue and yellow are back tank sender
White and yellow goes to the gauge in the truck
Other two wires are the power wires from the switch they give you to the tanks you pick which one is "Main" and "Aux"
(You would ignore the red and orange factory wires and just run your own from the switch in the cab to the fuel switch)
 

IDIoit

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Will not ship to Alaska.

How about mounting this off the frame, with the handle sticking up through the floor board? https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/fuel-valves/fv-6-port-series

https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/fuel-valves/fv-6-port-series/fv-65038

About $200, but not made of Chinesium, cheaper than $300 for OEM, and non-electric and should outlast all of us.
need it shipped? ill send ya one for the cost of the part and shipping
 

nelstomlinson

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Danielle and IDIoit, thanks for offering to ship to me. All my selector valves work, so I'm good for now. If one goes bad I'll probably go with the mechanical six port valve. I despise electronics.
 
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