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Diego Revisited

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by chillman88, Apr 28, 2020.

  1. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    So a catch can? We use those on most direct injection boosted gas motors. What benefit is it on the IDI? On direct injection the valves get dirty. Mercedes uses a centrifuge which is the best system on the gas motor side IMO.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
  2. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    The excessive oil vapor has been condensing on the air cleaner housing and dripping out the bottom all over the intake and turbo. I'm hoping to solve that problem with this.
     
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  3. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Well... Uhh.... Hmm........

    So I drove to work, then to Tractor Supply to pick up a new 7/16 bolt for the lawnmower. Got out to my truck and noticed a nice little puddle of oil under it. I know I bumped a return cap so I'm assuming that's all it is, and it's oily because there's plenty of oil left on the intake.........

    Got home and popped the hood to see how bad that cap is really leaking and WOW. Oil was EVERYWHERE. I checked it and HOT it was almost THREE QUARTS LOW! Okay so let me back up just a little tiny bit.....

    1. I don't check the oil as regularly as I should, shame on me. That said I've NEVER let it get THAT low, and I just topped it off a week or two ago.

    2. When I installed it I noticed it was venting a little too much out of the cap.....


    3. I had taken the line to the filter off when I installed it and thought "wow it's really working, I'm not seeing anything coming out of here"

    Ding ding ding we have a winner! There's a second check valve on the bottom. The top one is a PRESSURE relief valve, and the bottom one is a VACUUM relief valve. Looks to me like the VACUUM relief valve was DOUBLE GASKETED and FULLY BLOCKING FLOW.

    I pulled BOTH of those gaskets off and put it back together. Then I pulled the return line back off the filter and I'm getting way more oily vapor than I'd like, but at least I know it's FLOWING now.

    I'm going to run to work tomorrow on the assumption that the blockage caused the crankcase vapors to push oil out any seal it could. I did top the oil back off so we'll see how it goes from here.

    I'm probably due for an oil change anyway, and I'm sure that wouldn't help with any of this either.
     
  4. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Well it's still leaking oil pretty decent. It's certainly NOTHING like it was, but it's still leaving a decent oil spot when I stop. Pretty sure I'm going to order a turbo seal kit from @typ4 and replace the return line o-rings while everything is off. That'll give me a good opportunity to degrease everything up top.

    No pictures yet but I got the brake controller installed. Seems to work ok but I had to turn the boost way up. Might just need to adjust the trailer brakes though, haven't adjusted them since I left for Texas last summer :oops:
     
  5. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Seems to work fine. Didn't even know I had a trailer on while braking.

    IMG_20200702_055435725.jpg
     
  6. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Well this has been driving me nuts for a while now. Every once in a while if you turn just right or hit a bump this thing made a loud metallic bang. Crawled under the a couple months ago and found the problem. Finally got around to fixing it.

    Pulled the bedliner out to assess the situation.

    IMG_20200710_123711374.jpg

    That's not great, but not terrible either.

    IMG_20200710_123653185.jpg

    Yup that'll do it!

    IMG_20200710_132846973.jpg
    IMG_20200710_132852441.jpg

    Rotted right out on the underside too. The underside shots were taken after I cut the old bolt out.

    I was also missing a nut further back on another bed bolt. No clue how I managed to have the right size on hand. I think they're M13 bolts.

    I don't plan on doing anything intensive right now as far as body work goes, so I just cleaned it up and slathered some aerosol bedliner on it to cover up and slow the rust a tad.

    IMG_20200710_133538720_HDR.jpg

    Sloppy, but it'll do.
     
  7. saburai

    saburai Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Didja put the plastic liner back in so that you don't have to look at it?
    Outa sight, outa mind :rolleyes:
     
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  8. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    So what to do about the unexpected hole in the top of the bed? Well a little scrap 1/4" plate, a grinder, and a drill, plus some crappy quick primer work and voila!

    IMG_20200710_123820171_HDR.jpg

    Hit it with some bedliner spray and ran a bolt through it. Sorted!

    IMG_20200710_140938572_HDR.jpg

    Now, what about the hole in the bottom?

    Well... My employer drives me nuts sometimes, but it has it's advantages.

    IMG_20200710_140912125.jpg IMG_20200710_140906653.jpg

    14ga laser cut with holes for plug welding it in ;Sweet

    Made the flange just a smidge too wide, so it's not sitting perfect on the front, but it's fine for this truck! Everything is in and tightened down so hopefully no more banging hitting bumps!

    I'll plug weld it and paint it sometime. Maybe when I finally get to work on the body mounts.

    :Thumbs Up
     
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  9. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I will for now. I'll deal with the hole some other time.
     
  10. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Well I looked back at the rear sway bar bushings and wow they're shot.

    Wait a minute... I have that kit I bought for the dually that was the wrong size but......

    IMG_20200710_145702496_HDR.jpg

    Perfect!

    Waaaaaaaay better than the old ones :confused:

    IMG_20200710_145936189.jpg

    I'm sure the rest of them are shot too, but these were almost metal on metal, and I already had them so technically they were free!
     
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  11. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I need to get out from under this thing. Please tell me that's not....

    IMG_20200710_150658795.jpg

    Oh I hope not...

    IMG_20200710_150715268.jpg

    Son of a.....


    IMG_20200710_151624565.jpg IMG_20200710_151741462.jpg
    Gahhhh! Why can't people torque these things properly!??

    I can't afford new shocks yet, but I'll at least have to replace the bolts and torque them down good.

    They're factory Ford parts judging by the part numbers. I don't know if they're original or just dealer replacements. Definitely due for replacement though, and I'd bet the fronts are the same way :frustrate

    EDIT: Fronts look fine which is awesome!
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2020 at 4:11 PM
  12. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    This is the bolt from the first two pictures, the driver's side. It's the worst. The bolt and wallowed out hole is the passenger side.

    15944102343413459147688655272897.jpg

    Somehow miraculously had two bolts the correct size and thread, but they're 8.8 not 9.8. I put them in for now so the holes don't get any worse.
     
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  13. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    8 is enough.

    But I'd do something about those wallered out holes.

    Go to Lowes and get some of those huge thick washers made for concrete work, and weld them in place, er sumptin...
     
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  14. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    The old ones were 9.8 is the only reason for saying that.

    I hope to fix the holes but... Honestly I plan to do lots of stuff that never gets done LOL

    I have to get it in the garage and weld in that support patch piece, maybe I'll get to it then.

    Honestly I'll probably replace the M12 bolts with 1/2-13 when I get new shocks.
     
  15. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    I would.

    9.8 is overkill for that. (Maybe they were counting on people not torquing them correctly in the future, and having what happened here?)


    Grade 8, 1/2-13 bolts will work fine. With nylocks so whatever you torque it to, it won't rattle itself out.
     
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