Did I get a good deal?

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Jimmy Stewart, Sep 11, 2018.

  1. saburai

    saburai Full Access Member

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    That's for sure! Maybe even do it as a two-step process turbo first then intercooler later that's my plan anyway...
     
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  2. Jimmy Stewart

    Jimmy Stewart Full Access Member

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    I’m wondering if I should do ARP studs since I have injectors, lines and valve covers off. I plan on putting a turbo on in the near future.
     
  3. nostrokes

    nostrokes Full Access Member

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    If you go that route, witch I would if I had time, your going to have to pull the heads and do gaskets too. Best done with the engine out, though I've heard of people doing it with it in the truck. Those things weigh a ton, not fun crammed under the hood.
     
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  4. Jimmy Stewart

    Jimmy Stewart Full Access Member

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    I would have to do it in truck just because I have no means of getting engine out lol
     
  5. saburai

    saburai Full Access Member

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    From what I understand people have done studs without pulling the engine. Just a couple of months ago Wes and I pulled the engine in my 94 to do studs and freshen it up a bit. The heads are quite heavy and there's not a lot of room. Pulling the engine is a major undertaking, of course but I don't think doing the heads without pulling the engine would be easy at all. Just my FNG opinion, take it for what it's worth...
     
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  6. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    If I could do the head gaskets and head studs with the engine in my van, you can definitely figure out a way to do it in a truck.

    [​IMG]

    I think 4 or 5 of the studs were so close to the sides of the engine bay, that I had to tilt the engine just to get them to fit.


    Also, torquing them down to 150ft lbs (as per R&D IDI Performance's suggestion) was tiring thru the doghouse. I felt the burn the next day.
     
  7. Jimmy Stewart

    Jimmy Stewart Full Access Member

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    Ya, I think it’s gonna be a bear but I’ll get it done. Are there any write ups with pictures or videos of removing the heads?
     
  8. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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  9. Jimmy Stewart

    Jimmy Stewart Full Access Member

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  10. Jimmy Stewart

    Jimmy Stewart Full Access Member

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  11. Tristan

    Tristan Full Access Member

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    Yes, exactly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  12. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    You are right about chasing. You MUST chase them. If not, your stud won't go in all the way, and then when you put your rocker arm/valve levers in, they will clash with the stud. If there is any gunk on your stud threads in the block, you'll be SOL.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    So how, exactly, did you manage that one? The only way I can see to do it would be to get the block ready for the studs, slip the gaskets and heads on, install the studs, and finally the nuts. Is this close?
     
  14. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

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    Lemme think.... I think I pulled the opposing motor mount, set the block down on that side as far as it could go on some wood, then prepped the block deck and chased the threads. Tilting the motor gave me an extra inch of room from the nearby engine bay wall and doghouse aperture.

    Then I inserted the head dowels, and laid the HG in place, using the dowels to make sure the HG didn't move.

    Then I took my shop crane, installed a 6-ft long section of steel to extend its reach (the heads are not that heavy for the crane, but I didn't want to scuff the mating surfaces, so I wanted to use the crane to hold the head while I situated it on the block)

    [​IMG]

    From the inside:

    [​IMG]

    Then my buddy used the crane to lift the head, while I aligned it. Due to the closeness of the engine bay walls, I had to insert 3 (and 2 for the other head) head studs in the head, held up with rubber bands. The space was so tight, that if I hadn't preemptively inserted the studs, there wouldn't have been any way to fit them in there due to the closeness of the wall.

    [​IMG]


    Also, 3 push rods had to be preemptively inserted, and held up with rubber bands too.

    [​IMG]


    Once everything was ready, my friend lifted the heads with the crane, and he pulled the crane to the front of the van. I held the head in place, so that it wouldn't clash with the engine bay wall, doghouse edge, and block surfaces. Once I felt it was lined up, my friend SLOWLY lowered the crane, and I just lined up the dowels. It laid perfectly on the block, and I started threading the ARP studs down with my allen socket.

    [​IMG]

    Oh yeah, I forgot about how I applied the torque lube. Since I couldn't put the lube on the end of the stud before inserting it in the block, I used a q-tip to pre-lube each hole in the block, so when the stud would be slid into place in the head, it would receive the lube that way. I only had one stubborn stud, which didn't like to be installed this method. I can't remember how I dealt with it.




    I have more photos of the whole process here: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/eng...i-head-gasket-job-without-pulling-the-engine/
     
  15. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    WOW! That's all I can say about that. Good job!
     

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