Dana 60 swap- what is needed, what to look for?

[DesertBen44]

So I finally sold my spare idi motor, time to buy a dana 60!

I am most likely going to install a lift on the truck while installing the new axle, so leaf springs dont concern me, but im trying to come up with the names of all the steering components needed.

found one with my gear ratio (4.10) in phx.

IT comes with a "high steer arm" and no other steering components, complete with dually hubs.

I have a SRW< so I plan on just throwing my SRW hubs off my dana 50 on it during installation, I guess the question is, what else do I need? I dont know much about the steering setups, what components do I need to hook it up to my steering box? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On another note, I have never owned a d60, wondering what I should be looking for physically before buying it. Any tips? It is reasonable for me to pull the diff cover off and check out the fluid and teeth that are visible?>

*EDIT* If it matters, were talking about a supposed 1990 kingpin dana 60. My truck is a 1992 f250

 

[lindstromjd]

I won't be much help on most of the questions, but I CAN say that those dually hub adapters will be worth something to someone out there. To say that they're rare is an understatement.

 

[DesertBen44]

Good to know. I am still considering the pro's and con's, really want to lift the truck but dont really want to go through tires like the ttb is famous for!

 

[Leeland]

Not sure why it would have a "high steer arm" unless it was a chev 60 if some one can shed light on that I got a ball joint 60 and my linkage is similar to the ttb50 as in crosses over to the passenger side. If they meant high steer ARMS as in putting the tie rod above the leafs then hop on it. Can't remember what's all to checking king pins so hopefully some one can help you with that.
I think it would be wise to bring a drain pan and some tools to pop the cover so you can inspect any noticeable wear pattern on the ring gear and check for missing or chipped teeth, fluid condition etc. if you have a dial indicator you could bring that along and check the back lash.

Just out if curiosity what are they asking for this king pin? I still see them for around 8-900$ here and less for ball joint ford and dodge 60's.
For install I do know you'll need the bracket for the panhard bar and the bar its self, depending on lift it may need to get a drop plate for said bracket and sky claims a drop pitman arm is not needed for lifts 4" and under. I installed a 4" BDS lift and I did end up needing the drop pitman arm. And I believe you need the u-bolt plates on the bottom, the panhard bar mounts to the bottom passenger side plate. Not sure if the steering linkage is different or not, I seem to remember the ttb drag link going to the passenger steer arm/knuckle and the tie rod tying into the drag link and running over to to the DS steer arm/knuckle were the 60 has a tie rod from arm to arm with the drag link tying into that, not positive on the ttb, guess you could always go look at yours.

 

[DesertBen44]

tons of guys use the ford dana 60 for rock crawlers out here, he wants $1000, which is on the low end. 2 others currently are for sale for $1500 in the same city, but with 3.55s

 

[Leeland]

I under stand the desire for the ford HP king pin 60, it's just not there that it's highly desired. If there was any confusion over the arm comment, I'm merely concerned in the singularity used in the description. It made me think chev LP king pin 60, not sure why some one with a ford 60 with high steer would sell the axle with only one arm unless it was broke or they sold it separate/ needed it. Prices there sound high or your economy is better then Oregons. $1500 here will usually get you some up grades and not just a stock KP60. For 1000 and if its a decent shape sounds like with the prices where your at you should go check it out.

 

[DesertBen44]

Yeah i plan on it, i dont fully udnerstand the arm thing either. Prices are lowwww on msot everything, but for some reason these ford d60s are really high, almost double a dodge or chevy. I hope to go check it out this week!

 

[Leeland]

Dodge did the weird hub thing and had the vacuum engagement deal on the drivers tube, not sure of the proper nomenclature but it makes them not worth squat. Saw one about two months ago for 2-250$. Chev KP LP 60's are still holding some value, there's a lot of toy and chev guys here. Ford with the HP KP have the most desired attributes making them to hold value better with the best bang for the buck so to speak. But still, I've seen a few KP fords here for under a grand, not too long ago the was a 90/91f350 CC 5spd 7.3 4x4 so it would have bee a KP 60 unless it was swapped, here whole for 1500. The ball joint ford 60's for 500-700$ish when I see them time to time.

But if the deal works out for you, your probably going to have to go hunt down the parts I mentioned. Probably would be a good idea to measure your spring pad width center to center the best you can to verify it is what they say it is when you get there.

 

[lindstromjd]

For $1000, it's not bad at all, considering you could re-sell those dually adapters for around $200-250 to recoup some of the purchase price.

 

[DesertBen44]

So I have been texting the guy back and fourth, no pictures but he says "its a hi steer/crossover steering arm". and I need the linkage to hook up the steering. Still confused wish I could find a good diagram of the steering setup with the parts labeled.

 

[bigtex]

If it has the one "arm", it's set up for just crossover steering. All you would need now is the tie rod from a one ton ford that came with a 60 under the front. Get one for the 87-91 f350, those came with the kp axles. You may have to buy the drag link for the crossover set up, I run high steer and hydro assist so my set up is alittle different. Sky manufacturing in Oregon and ORD in Colorado. You will also be able to reuse your springs, u-bolts, drive line, brakes and I would leave one of the ttb brackets on the cross member so you can also run the factory panhard bar.

 

[junk]

Regarding steering parts I'm never too excited about used steering parts because normally they are worn. Dana 60 tie rods have two that go from knuckle to knuckle then another pair that goes from the first pair to the steering box. So even with the axle removed the two hubs steer together.

dana 60 axle. - Up through like 95 or 96 use the brake calipers that pin on versus bolt on so you can use your existing calipers. Hubs, rotors and locking hubs are the same with the 50. Dually hubs are worth a couple bucks so make sure to sell them. Panhard bar and mount - may need one for a lifted truck. Drivers side bottom u-bolt plate - its a special forged piece. Your talking about lift springs so I'm assuming you would have new springs and u-bolts.

Good luck on the hunt! Also I'm not sure if this is 100% true, but I think ford used the only leaf sprung dana 60 with the pumpkin on the drivers side.

 

[Leeland]

You must be registered for see images attach

Just a random front axle pic
Can't add captions on my phone
Horizontal bar - tie rod, this one has hydro assist, ignore that
Diagonal bar- drag link. Can't see it attached to the pitman arm on the steering box very well but its there.
The passenger 'high steer with cross over' arm is kinda seen on top of the pass knuckle along with the factory steering arm just below it.
The panhard bar runs on the back side of the axle parallel to the axle to locate it.
Not sure if that helped but hopefully. I can get a pic in the daylight if any one else doesn't have them of the mounting if you want.

 

[Can30Diesel]

Here is a decent pic of what the stock linkage for a Dana 60 looks like. (Ignore the lift and obvious need for a drop pitman arm).

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is the track bar or panhard bar or locator bar or whatever the current name for the thing that keeps the front diff from swaying side to side on bumps and whenever it wants to.

You must be registered for see images attach

Having bought a used Dana 60, I can say the following:
- Pop the hubs off and look for rust
- Check the wheel bearings
- Check diff fluid for color
- Get any and all bracketing you can, especially the bottom plate on the drivers side.
- The yoke size might be one size larger than your old diff (3/4 ton vs 1 ton) so you may need a 3/4 to 1 ton U joint (Unless you luck out and get the donor front drive shaft like I did)
- Its a good time to replace calipers, pads and soft brake lines, if you are lifting the truck you will need longer soft lines.

Basically, while you have it out of the truck, service it and do it right, then you can put it under the truck and never need to worry about it.

 

[Can30Diesel]

I was in a foolish hurry when I installed mine. If I was to do it again, I would have done things differently.