Dam blasted Fuel sending units.. what can I use? 89 f250

[jam sandwich]

After hours of searching this website, I dont have a definitive answer on where I can find a COST EFFECTIVE (ie not 180$ for a new one) Fuel sending unit I can use?

I see many threads on pre 86 models using a sunpro sending unit.. but what about 87+?
I browsed JC whitney and only found this universal fuel level float
http://www.jcwhitney.com/adjustable-fuel-level-float/p2005714.jcwx

From my understanding I need a sending unit with ohms resistance 145-22 @ the gauge
My preference would be to find a sending unit I can use with my stock fuel gauge..
Does any such item exist aside from shelling out 180$?

Thanks guys

 

[w4dsb]

i'm in this boat too with my 89
waiting on replies as well

 

[franklin2]

If you are reading the thread about adapting a JCWhitney unit to the stock assembly, this same unit will work, it just needs to be turned around to work backwards. The 86-down sending unit works backwards from the 87-up, but has values that are the same.

 

[jam sandwich]

turned around aka switched polarity?
The SAME unit would work even though the resistance values changed between pre 86 and 87+ ???

I just want to make 100% sure I am getting something that will give me accurate fuel readings on my STOCK fuel gauge, for both tanks.

 

[jam sandwich]

Bump, can anyone else confirm other fuel sending units that can work?

 

[jim x 3]

You could try this.

JAM: My 1988 has the usual tank pickup/sender troubles - rotted funnel-shaped pickup and screen and fuel sender variable resistor traces rubbed away.

I am repairing the sender by replacing the ceramic variable resistor and wiper with a suitable potentiometer.

My 1988 Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting manual indicates 145 ohms full, 22.5 ohms empty. The 1988 Truck Shop Manual Vol. A indicates 160 ohms full and 15 ohms empty. My measurements with the rear tank removed from the truck were 31.8 ohms directly on E, 94.2 ohms @ 1/2, and 181.5 ohms on F. The stock sender rotates thru 90 or 95 degrees. Radius is 7.5 inches. A commercially available 500 ohm electronic pot with 270 degrees of travel will provide 166 ohms thru 90 degrees of travel. That's what I'm using. I have (previously) asked these fora how the pot will hold up immersed in diesel fuel with no responses. So this is a test. If it works I'll do the front tank (that has same symptoms as the rear) next.

Note first photo shows stock parts on the left as well as new replacement. Wiring is not yet complete. I will calibrate with the rear tank out of the truck.

Regards,

 

[Diesel_brad]

Go to a junk yard and get a sending unit from any ford diesel up to 97(yes, powerstrokes). They will all work, just make sure to get the pigtail to go with it

 

[jam sandwich]

edit. double post. see below.

 

[jam sandwich]

Well guys My luck just doesn't seem to be improving.

I went yesterday to finalyl pick up my truck from the dealer. The truck started up fine, but as soon as I went to drive it out it stalled and wouldn't start again...
The tank was reading around 1/4 full. After reading alot, Ive come to the conclusion that its very likely my rear tank fuel pickup has broken off, and cannot suck in any more gas.

This is definitely irritating as Ive been waiting to pick this truck up for over a week now.
So now I suppose I have to replace BOTH sending units now.. or at least drop the rear tank and replace the pickup tube.. I can use a piece of rubber hose with a v cut in the end of the hose right?

edit:
would anyone know if the following sending units would fit my 89 f250? (I need both front and rear)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_956

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dorm...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3128wt_898

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_956

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto...Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_4384wt_1166

AKA would 90-92, 93 or 94-97 7.3 fuel sending units work on my 89?

Im really in a bind here guys, please help a guy out!!!

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

I don't know about your '89, but I was able to remove the sending unit on my '92 on the front tank without dropping it. It might not look like it, but there's enough room to sneaky pete it out of there (remember the game Operation?). If you are really in a pinch, pull it out, temporarily forget about getting your fuel guage to work, replace anything that's broken on your fuel pickup with a notched fuel line, and run it on one tank by keeping track of your mileage while you figure out how/when you will do a long term fix on both tanks.

Given a little time and effort, you will most likely come accross the info and/or parts you need to correctly repair the sending unit(s), but in the mean time just keep track of your mileage and fillerup before your tank runs dry.

Good luck to you no matter what direction you go.

 

[SparkandFire]

JAM: My 1988 has the usual tank pickup/sender troubles - rotted funnel-shaped pickup and screen and fuel sender variable resistor traces rubbed away.

I am repairing the sender by replacing the ceramic variable resistor and wiper with a suitable potentiometer.

My 1988 Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting manual indicates 145 ohms full, 22.5 ohms empty. The 1988 Truck Shop Manual Vol. A indicates 160 ohms full and 15 ohms empty. My measurements with the rear tank removed from the truck were 31.8 ohms directly on E, 94.2 ohms @ 1/2, and 181.5 ohms on F. The stock sender rotates thru 90 or 95 degrees. Radius is 7.5 inches. A commercially available 500 ohm electronic pot with 270 degrees of travel will provide 166 ohms thru 90 degrees of travel. That's what I'm using. I have (previously) asked these fora how the pot will hold up immersed in diesel fuel with no responses. So this is a test. If it works I'll do the front tank (that has same symptoms as the rear) next.

Note first photo shows stock parts on the left as well as new replacement. Wiring is not yet complete. I will calibrate with the rear tank out of the truck.

Regards,

Good choice on the AB quality pot!

I was thinking about doing this as well, I am not sure how the pot will hold up in diesel, but, it seems reasonable to me that the guts of that pot are made of more or less the same stuff as the factory wiper pot.

It's always fun being the guinnea pig...

 

[franklin2]

Bump, can anyone else confirm other fuel sending units that can work?

Sorry I left you hanging with no reply, but I found some of the info I stated is not true, and I am getting the impression you want something to bolt in and go, since you do not seem to be commenting on the other posts about modifying and converting other units and parts to work.

The big problem I found with my answer is the ohms are not the same as you can see clearly stated earlier. And I cannot say with any factual knowledge that the other units you listed will "bolt in". Someone stated some of the later units would work "with modifications" so I am not sure you are going to find anything that will bolt in without paying the high price for the correct piece.

From the latest info I have found, for the 87-up trucks I am going to order the Jcwhitney Stewart-Warner style float unit that is 240-33 ohms. This will not be a bolt in, it will be a take it apart and modify it to work deal, and it will need to be re-oriented to read backwards, you just can't swap polarity on these things. The 33 ohms will be very close to the previous poster's 31.8 ohms empty, and these things will usually go beyond their ratings a little bit anyway. The 240 ohms for full will be a little bit high, but it will just sit on full a little bit longer, and then start falling, and this is the way the factory unit is working on my truck now anyway. Just so empty is accurate is all I am worried about.

 

[THECACKLER]

You're gonna' think I suck, but I cannibalized an 89 unit to fix my 90. I went through 3 different units until I found one with a good rheostat. $20 at pick-a-part. I took the rheostat off of the 89 unit and soldered it onto my 90 pickup. The reason for the prune & graft was that the 89 fuel line outlet fittings were aimed quite different from the 90. The arm that holds the float and connects to the rheostat was shaped different as well but I chose not to try and remove it as I was afraid the plastic would break. Bottom line,,,, it works well. suggestion... Get a new suel sender seal from Ford for $2.. I had to do the R&R three times to figure that out. New Seal, no leaky..

 

[BioFarmer93]

Jam Sandwich-
I will be putting my front tank with the new sender back in this weekend. I picked one up from NAPA for $81 for a 1990 year model. The mounting bracket on the new one is built onto back of the senders housing but the housing is identical to the '89 which gives me hope that the ohm range will be the same also. I ended up securely wiring it in the proper location and orientation to the existing mounting plate that is welded onto one of the tubes. I was advised against using fuel hose to make a flexible pickup because it is not rated for submersion. The stuff that is rated for submersion is $24 a foot, so my remedy to get the fuel at the bottom of the tank is to open up the radius of the two bends in the pickup tube so that it rests about 1/8" up from the tank bottom. This will be verified by looking through the filler tube hole and re-tweeking as necessary to achieve the proper height. I just don't want it vibrating against the bottom of the tank and wearing a hole in it. I'll try to post the results by Sunday evening.

 

[jam sandwich]

Thanks for the info! Ive been wondering if 90-97 fuel sending units would work on my 89.. its my understanding the ohm range is the same, but as far as bolting up with no issues.. thats what I was unsure about.

I need BOTH sending units as I said before.. so I found a couple on ebay.. but Im not sure if they will work on my 89's gas tanks..