david85
Full Access Member
I think I've seen this movie before.
As many of you know may recall, I've often discussed converting my F250 to 4wd but can't figure out a way to keep ride height low and more importantly, Keep my 3.08 rear axle ratio. The D44 is the only axle option up front, since D50s and 60s both only go down to 3.54 ratio. No plans to wheel, plow, or go to oversize tires, so I don't need anything bullet proof.
Now, F250 TTBs are a bit of a pain because they are shorter than the F150 coil sprung version. Some have done the Chevy Knuckle conversion to allow a D44 coil sprung F150 setup to mount onto the factory Twin I-Beam mounts found under a front 2wd F250 (or F150) Frame. Only problem is, this style of conversion requires a downgrade in hubs, knuckles and brakes. Basically, you're running a 1/2 ton front end with 8 bolt hubs. So even though its fairly straight forward, I never pursued it once I saw the compromise. And brakes are one part of the truck that I really don't want to weaken.
Ok, now for the crazy idea. Have a look at the picture below, which shows the difference in swing arm lengths between F150 and F250 TTB axle beams:
Some guys modify these by cutting and welding them for various pre-runner setups, so hacking them is not entirely unusual.
How would it be to mix and match the two beams by cutting them right down the differential housing to extend the HD beam long enough to fit the F150/F250 2wd mounts? The cut would have do be precise. We have a good metal cutting bandsaw that could do it, with the help of a positioner jig. The weld would also have to be very accurate, but I can use the carrier to help align the mixmatched halves. The weld would also span the widest possible cross section of the beam, making it very strong (as compared to other modders, who put the weld on the narrower swing arm).
So, assuming this is possible, the result would be an F150 length beam on one side, with the F250 knuckles on the other. In theory, this should give the following advantages:
1. HD F250 dual piston brakes
2. Dana 50 knuckles, axles, U-joints, and hubs
3. Could still keep the factory leaf spring side of the design (resulting in less leaf twist), or with some imagination, use coil springs/radius arm setup as seen on F150s.
4. Less wheel camber issues, due to longer radius of suspension travel
5. Reduced torsional stress on the front of the frame, due to a longer axle beam
6. Minimum increase in ride height (not an advantage for everyone)
7. Ability to accept 3.07 gears without sacrificing knuckles, brakes, or tire wear performance
Ok...come at me! Where did I go wrong?
As many of you know may recall, I've often discussed converting my F250 to 4wd but can't figure out a way to keep ride height low and more importantly, Keep my 3.08 rear axle ratio. The D44 is the only axle option up front, since D50s and 60s both only go down to 3.54 ratio. No plans to wheel, plow, or go to oversize tires, so I don't need anything bullet proof.
Now, F250 TTBs are a bit of a pain because they are shorter than the F150 coil sprung version. Some have done the Chevy Knuckle conversion to allow a D44 coil sprung F150 setup to mount onto the factory Twin I-Beam mounts found under a front 2wd F250 (or F150) Frame. Only problem is, this style of conversion requires a downgrade in hubs, knuckles and brakes. Basically, you're running a 1/2 ton front end with 8 bolt hubs. So even though its fairly straight forward, I never pursued it once I saw the compromise. And brakes are one part of the truck that I really don't want to weaken.
Ok, now for the crazy idea. Have a look at the picture below, which shows the difference in swing arm lengths between F150 and F250 TTB axle beams:
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Some guys modify these by cutting and welding them for various pre-runner setups, so hacking them is not entirely unusual.
How would it be to mix and match the two beams by cutting them right down the differential housing to extend the HD beam long enough to fit the F150/F250 2wd mounts? The cut would have do be precise. We have a good metal cutting bandsaw that could do it, with the help of a positioner jig. The weld would also have to be very accurate, but I can use the carrier to help align the mixmatched halves. The weld would also span the widest possible cross section of the beam, making it very strong (as compared to other modders, who put the weld on the narrower swing arm).
So, assuming this is possible, the result would be an F150 length beam on one side, with the F250 knuckles on the other. In theory, this should give the following advantages:
1. HD F250 dual piston brakes
2. Dana 50 knuckles, axles, U-joints, and hubs
3. Could still keep the factory leaf spring side of the design (resulting in less leaf twist), or with some imagination, use coil springs/radius arm setup as seen on F150s.
4. Less wheel camber issues, due to longer radius of suspension travel
5. Reduced torsional stress on the front of the frame, due to a longer axle beam
6. Minimum increase in ride height (not an advantage for everyone)
7. Ability to accept 3.07 gears without sacrificing knuckles, brakes, or tire wear performance
Ok...come at me! Where did I go wrong?
