Crazy idea for D44HD TTB 4x4 conversion (feel free to hit me if I'm off the wall)

[david85]

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Here's one thing that's nagging at me a bit. The above photo shows an F250 TTB setup viewed from the rear. Notice the position of the passenger side swing arm pivot. Seems to be in the same location as the 2wd F250 / 4wd F150. Can anyone confirm what difference there is between the leaf sprung swing arm length and the coil sprung arm for the passenger side beam???

 

[hce]

approximatly 31" from center of pivot bolt to center of bottom ball joint hole.

 

[82F100SWB]

Both pivots are closer to the center of the truck and dropped farther on the leaf sprung TTB.
If I had your truck, I would be using the F150 beams, as they bolt in your 2wd chassis, and the coils ride much better. The hiccup of course is keeping the nice big Ford brakes.
The go fast off road types have no issue of cutting and welding on the beams(cut and turn,) one could graft the 50 inner c to the 44, probably without too much heartache. I know the Ranger guys do it to put 44 outers on a 35.
I haven't compared knuckles, but I know the 44 and 44HD use the same balljoints top and bottom, and the 50 uses the same upper balljoint.
The desert guys also like relocating the lower, so, in theory it might be plausible to change the mounting for only one balljoint to suit the knuckle.

Stranger things have been done, I have seen a TTB 50 mated to a rear 60 to create a steer axle before.

 

[david85]

Both pivots are closer to the center of the truck and dropped farther on the leaf sprung TTB.

Hmm....

If I had your truck, I would be using the F150 beams, as they bolt in your 2wd chassis, and the coils ride much better. The hiccup of course is keeping the nice big Ford brakes.

Yup, I like the idea of running D50 axles in there too. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason they can't be run in F150s or light F250s, is due to the physically wider yokes at the knuckle U-joint. I guess the different beam lengths do not affect them?

The go fast off road types have no issue of cutting and welding on the beams(cut and turn,) one could graft the 50 inner c to the 44, probably without too much heartache. I know the Ranger guys do it to put 44 outers on a 35.
I haven't compared knuckles, but I know the 44 and 44HD use the same balljoints top and bottom, and the 50 uses the same upper balljoint.
The desert guys also like relocating the lower, so, in theory it might be plausible to change the mounting for only one balljoint to suit the knuckle.

Are they lowering the balljoint, or simply moving it out to correct for camber? I'd have to make sure the axle is still centered on the diff.

Stranger things have been done, I have seen a TTB 50 mated to a rear 60 to create a steer axle before.

Yikes.

 

[82F100SWB]

Now that I'm not sleep deprived due to my wonderful new puppy, you will have to stick with 44 components or have custom inner shafts made. The differential on the 150 is roughly 2" further outboard than the 250/350, that is how they have room for the lower ride height. This also means that the inner shafts wont work. So, you will need to run F150 inners with F250 stubs. I know I used F150 stubs in my 250, but I can't remember exactly what the difference was, I knew it worked, but wasn't right.
A possible fix for that would be to find a 70's F250 closed knuckle 44HD, it uses the same 1350 joints as the D50 does, and have it's shafts cut to legnth and resplined. However, I don't like the idea of having custom axle shafts, and since I know you are not planning on putting 40's on and wheeling it, 44 shafts and joints will live just fine for you.

For the most part guys are relocating the lower ball joint for camber correction, but, this guy did exactly what I was thinking, with a 50, but made the drivers side beam longer rather than otherwise address the axle shaft legnth issue:
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/threads/156112-1993-Ford-Ranger-1-ton-Trailrunner-Prerunner
This is the solution I was thinking of for modifying the beam to suit the knuckle:

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The lower section is from the 50.

And, for giggles, the 50/60 hybrid:

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[david85]

Now that I'm not sleep deprived due to my wonderful new puppy, you will have to stick with 44 components or have custom inner shafts made. The differential on the 150 is roughly 2" further outboard than the 250/350, that is how they have room for the lower ride height. This also means that the inner shafts wont work.

I did not know about the 2" offset (guess that was to make room for the leaf springs). So the driver's side could probably be re-splined since it necks-down, but the passenger side would have to be replaced with a longer one. Crud.

So, you will need to run F150 inners with F250 stubs.

I thought the D44's used a different U-joint with an internal C-clip. Is there an offset U-joint combo that would work for this?

I know I used F150 stubs in my 250, but I can't remember exactly what the difference was, I knew it worked, but wasn't right.
A possible fix for that would be to find a 70's F250 closed knuckle 44HD, it uses the same 1350 joints as the D50 does, and have it's shafts cut to legnth and resplined. However, I don't like the idea of having custom axle shafts, and since I know you are not planning on putting 40's on and wheeling it, 44 shafts and joints will live just fine for you.

Yeah I don't really like the idea of custom shafts either. Not sure if anyone even makes custom shafts for the D50. So larger hubs are probably out of the deal too. I could still keep the dual piston brakes if I hacked the inner knuckle, but the advantages of this setup are starting to dwindle.

For the most part guys are relocating the lower ball joint for camber correction, but, this guy did exactly what I was thinking, with a 50, but made the drivers side beam longer rather than otherwise address the axle shaft legnth issue:
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/threads/156112-1993-Ford-Ranger-1-ton-Trailrunner-Prerunner
This is the solution I was thinking of for modifying the beam to suit the knuckle:

You must be registered for see images attach

The lower section is from the 50.

Now that's what I call a build. Its been a while since I've seen that kind of high quality fab work. And here I am, nit-picking over rust pitting on the roof of my truck

And, for giggles, the 50/60 hybrid:

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Why??? Narrower wheel base?


So bottom line is, I can't build the setup I want without making custom shafts and Traction Beams. Thanks for chiming in. More things to think about.

 

[82F100SWB]

I was meaning 44HD stubs with 44 inners. The 44HD TTB uses standard 44 joints.
Unfortunatley there doesn't seem to be anything other than the Chevy 3/4 ton setup when it comes to a bolt on 8 lug brake setup. I believe I may have ran across a bolt on Wilwood or similar caliper for them years ago when I was putting discs on the rear of my off road rig.

 

[david85]

I was meaning 44HD stubs with 44 inners. The 44HD TTB uses standard 44 joints.
Unfortunatley there doesn't seem to be anything other than the Chevy 3/4 ton setup when it comes to a bolt on 8 lug brake setup. I believe I may have ran across a bolt on Wilwood or similar caliper for them years ago when I was putting discs on the rear of my off road rig.

Gotcha, guess I still have the D50 stuck in my head. I wonder if there's a dual piston upgrade for the chevy setup...probably have to go aftermarket for that ($$$). The D60 is sounding better all the time.

 

[riotwarrior]

Keep it simple go for chevy parts and be done.....still going to be a fine setup.

Upgrade to hydroboost a d voila!

 

[david85]

Keep it simple go for chevy parts and be done.....still going to be a fine setup.

Upgrade to hydroboost a d voila!

Yeah, hydroboost had crossed my mind too. I suspect the load sensor at the rear of the truck would need adjusting, but that shouldn't be a big deal.