crankcase preassure reroute

[Dave7.3]

I can see wool higher up in the tubing but why at the end? Any thing in the tubing will add back pressure and cause more oil to end up on the ground. That is what has happened so for with my experiments with my truck. I bought from another member a banks blow by piece to use 1" tubing and I am going to my air filter to suck it in the engine. My engine has good power and good compression but seems to have a good amount of blow by and it looks awful coming out from under the truck. My thinking is if I mount the elbow at the end of the air filter on the cone it will not has as much vacuum to suck oil in as if it was in the air tubing up closer to the turbo. Oh well if it sucks a little oil in the engine since its running on 50% oil anyway!

I somehow don't see the steel wool adding much back pressure as it is fairly loose material honestly. For reference, check out the testing here with rolled scotchbrite pads in a catch can system:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv.php
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv1.php

Not much resistance as you can see with quite a bit thicker and denser material.

Now having the steel wool at the end WILL collect vapors and leave a drop spot, but an open tube does that anyway from my experience. For now though, its purpose is to keep critters out as the truck as it is parked a week at a time outside of summer harvest season. Might end up changing it in the future to a catch can design.

As far as unsightly vapor clouds...I myself have a little bit of blowby but haven't ever seen it with my truck. At least driving in traffic.

The only occasion where I saw a large cloud was having the truck idling for about 5 hours in first gear checking cattle.

 

[Goose_ss4]

i guess the only way to know for sure is to try it out. weld in an venturi fitting at a good angle fire her up and see if she sucks or blows. i have found out that having a liquid hit a turbo compressor blade that is spinning super fast destroys the blades. almost like little rocks going through the compressor. went through two turbos like this, and now on my third i took the CDR off and have not had a problem. besides the clean up and other damage to other parts (intercooler) having hot gases in your intake kinda defeats the purpose of having a cold intake system anyway. i am researching an one way check valve for a air compressor system ( Graingers guy helping me) that only allows air to move one way. i am also going to put a boost/vacum guage on the system as well to see if anything changes or break while driving down the road. i just figured that dragsters that are blown and have these to help relive pressure, and use the as the way i have discribed why cant i.

 

[greg_a_morton]

my blow by looks really bad and have had several people say something about it at the gas stops. I have chose not to use use the cdr as I feel it will add back pressure that I do not need. I am looking to use some of this autoRX that every one is talking about to see if that will help with my blow by.

 

[Goose_ss4]

another reason why you don't want anything going into your intake before your turbo compressor hitting your blade is distruction. that is why on water methanol cooling injection system, they have you install them post turbo. i don't know the scientific term, but i guessing "erosion". oil caring engine cotamiants cant be a good thing.

 

[Goose_ss4]

I somehow don't see the steel wool adding much back pressure as it is fairly loose material honestly. For reference, check out the testing here with rolled scotchbrite pads in a catch can system:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv.php
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv1.php

Not much resistance as you can see with quite a bit thicker and denser material.

Now having the steel wool at the end WILL collect vapors and leave a drop spot, but an open tube does that anyway from my experience. For now though, its purpose is to keep critters out as the truck as it is parked a week at a time outside of summer harvest season. Might end up changing it in the future to a catch can design.

As far as unsightly vapor clouds...I myself have a little bit of blowby but haven't ever seen it with my truck. At least driving in traffic.

The only occasion where I saw a large cloud was having the truck idling for about 5 hours in first gear checking cattle.

i have made one of these kit myself out of an electrical rain tight wheather tight submersible box, but the only problem is when those sponges get soaked with oil you might as well plug the cdr with a layer of oil. this creates back pressure. believe me this is no good. sucks that you got change those sponges out every so often is no good.

 

[Goofyexponent]

Think about this.....a siphon feed paint gun works in the SAME principal that I described.

I am sticking with my original theory that the higher velocity exhaust gasses will provide a slight vacuum and suck the crankcase emissions out the tailpipe....and not pressurize the crankcase.

 

[Goofyexponent]

I made a flame thrower this way... it was awesome, and works REALLY REALLY well!

What was said above about the higher pressure exhaust moving into the crank case no matter what the angle that the RDT was input is wrong according to my experiment.

My experiment: get some air 3/8, or 1/2 pex tubing. Get some 1/8 or 5/32 pex tubing. poke a hole in the 3/8 in the pex tubing just big enough for the smaller tubing. Shove 6 inches of the smaller tubing into the smaller tubing (so that it is inside the lager tubing traveling in the same direction as the flow of air in the larger tubing). Stick the other end of the small tube in a bucket of what ever you want (I chose rubbing alcohol because it starts on fire nicely) than hook the end of the larger hose to an air compressor (I have an air gun with a 1/8NPT threads on it that I hook at 1/8 to 3/8 pex adapter to) and let her rip! it will draw what ever is in the bucket out, and spray it all over the place!!

Anyway, thats fun and all but the moral of the story is a simple one. MOVING AIR HAS LESS PRESSURE THAN STATIC AIR! Just look at aircraft wing design, its does the same thing and it causes enough pressure under the wing to keep a 747 off the ground!

What G. Mann said is VERY true in a CLOSED system where the air has no where to go, however once you give it somwhere to go it will take the path of least resistance, which is right out the tail pipe! The only problem will be a really restrictive muffler, but it would have to be pretty restrictive!. Also placing the RDT before the turbo would probably cause an issue as well.

My $.02 stick it in the exhaust at a shallow angle and RUN IT!

Exactly, the higher velocity air creates a low pressure zone. Remember grade 9 physics/science? Nature doesn't suck, it blows.

The higher velocit air creates a void in the pipe. The shallow angle of a RDT fitting will allow ANY air to be pulled into the system and exhausted.

As for holding a piece of plate over the tailpipe...yea...you are blocking off the ONLY exit in the system. Its like saying water won't drain from a sink unless the plug is pulled.

I am not trying to b an azzhat here, I'm just saying what I know in theory. And based on Phazer's flamethrower, my theory is backed up by fact.

 

[Goofyexponent]

"A venturi is the action formed when a moving column of liquid or air is channeled into a narrower space. The effect is to increase the speed of the air or liquid flow. This is the basic action of most spray guns. A column of air travelling into the mixer chamber is restricted and so it increases speed and pressure of the air. By placing a suction tube in the mixer area (at an angle to the air flow) this extra pressure and speed sucks up the paint and it is mixed with the air. The very same effect is the main principle of a standard automobile carburetter"

Taken from THIS website.

http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/siphon-feed-spray-gun.html

If my theory is wrong, then the air would fillthe paint cup and blow it off. That would be the qeuivilant of exhaust pressure blowing out main seals.

Again, I mean NO disrespect, I just want to prove my point.

 

[Dave7.3]

i have made one of these kit myself out of an electrical rain tight wheather tight submersible box, but the only problem is when those sponges get soaked with oil you might as well plug the cdr with a layer of oil. this creates back pressure. believe me this is no good. sucks that you got change those sponges out every so often is no good.

Wait wait...a weather tight submersible box stuffed with sponges? I believe the point of the sponges is to catch the oil in the mist and let it drain to the end of the cap where it can be drained at an oil change interval. All while still allowing the pressure to escape. As easily shown: http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv.php

Of course if you pack it tight enough, it will not work. From what I can read, that might have been the problem you discovered? I could be wrong though...do you have any photos of your setup? What we really need is some on road testing!

 

[jonathan]

heres how i did mine for 10 bucks. to block the hole in the intake and the valley pan i used ruber freeze plugs

 

[Dave7.3]

heres how i did mine for 10 bucks. to block the hole in the intake and the valley pan i used ruber freeze plugs

Interesting routing with your RDT... Have you ever worried about the spots where your tube seems to crimp slightly?

 

[jonathan]

heres how i did mine for 10 bucks. to block the hole in the intake and the valley pan i used ruber freeze plugs

all i did was take my oil fill cap off and put a plastic guy that treaded onon end and barbed for a 1 inch hose

 

[TWeatherford]

"Venturi effect" decreases the pressure of the fluid (in this case, exhaust) by increasing its velocity. Now if your exhaust is at 3 psi, then the pressure at the outlet of your angled, welded in cranckase vent fitting, might be 2.5 psi. So if your crankcase is at 1 psi, then indeed you'll be pressurizing your crankcase. But if your crankcase is at 4 psi, then the outlet of your crankcase vent fitting will indeed suck on your crankcase and help it to vent.

The basic equation is the Bernoulli equation which, when simplified for our use by canceling out pumps, turbines, and losses (which change velocity and pressure), says:

Pressure(1) + Velocity(1) = Pressure(2) + Velocity(2). If you increase velocity, pressure goes down. Increase pressure velocity goes down. A nozzle on a garden hose decreases the water pressure while increasing the velocity, and the change in kinetic energy at the outlet of the nozzle is why it pushes back on you as you hold it.

The only good way I know of is to figure out if venting into exhaust is a good idea is to weld a fitting into the exhaust, hook a hose to it, fire up the truck and see "how much" it sucks. Also, see "how much" your crankcase blows. If your exhaust sucks more than your crankcase blows then it might be a good idea. I am currently unhappy with my RDT setup as I have a lot of oil leaks, and it smells bad, and I often have people telling me about it in traffic and parking lots.

 

[jonathan]

Interesting routing with your RDT... Have you ever worried about the spots where your tube seems to crimp slightly?

its a 1 inch hose and i can see a smoke haze idling at red lights when its warmed up so i thinks works real good

 

[greg_a_morton]

what kind of hose is the clear line that you are using? Is it automotive?