Coolant leak.

[thx997303]

After fixing the coolant leak at the upper radiator hose, I have another leak.

This time, the coolant is dripping from the oil pan, and seems to be coming from somewhere below the heads. The oil cooler is wet, but I'm not sure if the coolant is coming from there.

So my thoughts are it could be oil cooler, water pump, or maybe a hose somewhere.

It only leaks when the coolant system is partially pressurized. It doesn't seem to leak much when up to operating temperature, and it doesn't seem to leak when the engine is cold.

Any thoughts? Tricks on finding the leak besides cleaning the engine?

 

[thx997303]

Well the oil cooler is clearly leaking, but it looks to be leaking oil from the front flange.

Grabbing the fan and wiggling it around didn't reveal any play. The bottom of the water pump clearly has coolant on it, but I didn't see any leaking necessarily.

No leaking coolant while I ran the truck to check for leaks, but started dripping coolant beneath the crank pulley as soon as I shut the truck off.

Side note, it doesn't appear I have antifreeze in the oil, but didn't look into the coolant just yet.

 

[Wyreth]

Sounds like at least your water pump is bad. It can leak from the weep hole long before you get bearing play on the fan.

Also, if you're leaking oil from the oil cooler, it sounds like a good time to pull it and replace the o-rings and gaskets as well.

 

[icanfixall]

Personally I would replace the water pump before doing the oil cooler because thats what I believe is leaking and not the oil cooler. Remember the fan turns towards the oil cooler so any water pump leak will throw coolant that direction. No antifreeze. Might try doing a coolant flush before the new water pump too. That will remove all the crap that probably is in the cooling track.

 

[thx997303]

I guess I failed to mention this. The oil cooler is leaking oil. I looked all over the underside of the engine, then started it, and immediately after starting, oil started dripping off of the front header for the oil cooler.

So, the oil cooler does need to be resealed, whether or not the water pump has failed.

Any way to test the water pump, or am I just going to have to clean off the engine, and use a mirror and flashlight to observe the weep hole?

 

[riotwarrior]

My suggestion, get the thing to a pressure washer, clean that beast off and good. Let dry then attempt to locate leak!

Nuff said, once located, simple to fix, easier now too cause it is all clean right!

Regardless of WP or OC cleanliness makes the job much much nicer!


JM2CW

Al

 

[thx997303]

Got a mirror up under the pump, sure enough it's coming from the weep hole.

Now the thing is, How the hell do they expect you to get this stupid fan clutch off?

I've tried two different fan clutch holding tools, and neither one will hold enough to get any reasonable torque on that stupid nut.

 

[79jasper]

Got a mirror up under the pump, sure enough it's coming from the weep hole.

Now the thing is, How the hell do they expect you to get this stupid fan clutch off?

I've tried two different fan clutch holding tools, and neither one will hold enough to get any reasonable torque on that stupid nut.

You know it's left hand threads, right?

Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk

 

[icanfixall]

All idi fan clutch nuts are a left hand thread. Most auto parts stores will rent the 2 fan nut tools needed to remove the fan. Please listen to this important item. Place a piece of cradboard or 1/8 or 1/4 inch plywood between the fan and the radiater. Not doing that to protect the radiater can cost you big repairs to fix a hole...

 

[ToughOldFord]

Make a tool, this member did, mine is similar:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...hab-or-rebuild&p=783311&viewfull=1#post783311

 

[thx997303]

Yes I know it's left hand threaded, and I have used two separate fan clutch tools for the purpose, to no avail.

One is a plate steel one that goes around the bolts, and it wouldn't hold against any torque. The other is a long bar with adjustable jaws that also grab around the pulley bolts, and it also wont hold against any torque. These two tools were rented from the local oriellys, as Napa didn't have a tool.

When we do get the tool to hold, we can't put enough force on either the 2" long wrench or the 2" long clutch fan tool.

Maybe I need to hit the nut with some heat.

 

[thx997303]

This is very similar to the first tool I tried.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9777107&postcount=5

And this is very similar to the second tool I tried, it's a picture in the OP.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?27477-How-To-Replace-Water-Pump-in-1hr-)

 

[thx997303]

Well heat didn't change a thing. Heated up the nut for about 15 minutes and still the tool will slip off before the nut budges.

 

[79jasper]

If you have access to a chain strap pipe wrench, should for sure get a grip.

Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk

 

[thx997303]

I've been trying to get this stupid thing loose since 4pm today. I've heated the nut several times, smacked the wrench with a hammer, had myself and another guy working the pulley holder and the wrench, both of which have two foot long handles.

The thing just hasn't budged. Yes I'm turning it clockwise. I understand left threads.

I'm debating buying a new fan clutch and just pulling the whole thing as a unit, and just putting the new fan clutch on the new pump at this point.