Coolant change

[robmoore11]

Did a coolant change a few days ago. Came back to truck to change fuel filter which btw weighed 3-4 times the weight it should have. And checked coolant. The coolant I put in was purple. After letting truck run for a little while so fuel system would prime itself I checked the coolant and it was green... Doesn't make sense to me because when I changed coolant I filled with water 3 times and let run for 10-15 mins each time and drained by pulling lower hose. Then filled with coolant and let run with cap off to make sure level did not drop but stayed purple. Until I checked today. Any ideas?

 

[alienturtle]

maybe you didnt let it get hot enough to get the the thermestat to open and what green coolant was in the block/oil cooler/ ect is now what you are seeing?

 

[sootman73]

ya they have to get pretty hot on the gauge to open the thermostat when there is an air bubble at the thermostat.... you'd be better off putting a hose to a coolant line and running that through to flush it out of the block.

 

[robmoore11]

It did get pretty hot. I know the water ran through. But what hose do I hook the garden hose to so I can flush the hole system? I just cleaned out the overflow tank because there was dirt or sand in the bottom of it.... Last owner really didn't take care of this truck and I'm starting to get really frustrated

 

[robmoore11]

Maybe the Tstat is screwed. What temp tstat should I get for the truck.

 

[Compu Doc]

I don't know if your going to want to change it again or not but maybe if you put the rear wheels up on ramps then you might get more coolant out of the block without having to pull the block drains.

Or an easier method would be to drain the coolant on a hill facing downward. Put enough coolant in then have the truck facing uphill to add the rest.

 

[robmoore11]

I don't know if your going to want to change it again or not but maybe if you put the rear wheels up on ramps then you might get more coolant out of the block without having to pull the block drains.

Or an easier method would be to drain the coolant on a hill facing downward. Put enough coolant in then have the truck facing uphill to add the rest.

Good idea. I may try that soon. But I am going to have to flush the system I can see debree floating when I pull cap off rad.

 

[damac]

When I brought my truck home it had an oil cooler leak so the reservoir was full of oil

For me I knew I had to break the whole truck down and get ALL new hoses. I also yanked the block drains and installed those petcock drains to aid in flushing.

Then I installed one of those over the counter backlush kits inline.

I also installed a coolant filter.

I also got a international water pump for $30 so I replaced that(it was nasty inside) to start fresh as I didn't want to touch anything for a long time after the rehaul

I also took a look at the thermostat and replaced with the namebrand that everybody on here says to get, not the local kragen model.

And inside that neck there is a check ball that is held in by a retainer. Thank you previous owner, I had a ton of rtv in my system. It looked so sloppy in that area I am pretty sure it wasn't factory. My check ball valve cavity was completely plugged up so it had no chance of actuating.

As far as flushing, I had to go nuts due to the oil. But I did a handfull of cycles with low sud dishwashing soap and calgon and drove the truck atleast a half an hour at a time. Also with the truck empty I had to completely block off the radiator to heat it up.

Once I did all that I did a couple of the store bought radiator flushes with the last batch having only distilled water. Then I rinsed that as best I could with distilled water and did the final fill.

I would hose that sucker down from the radiator side and the backflush kit for a good 5-10 minutes each way to make sure I had no trace of the soap, etc. With my nose up on the driveway it did seem to take some time for the block to drain out since they are smaller holes and I imagine stuff settles in there.

My coolant is still purple

Anyway it sucks to here and I am not sure if technically you need to change the coolant as far as the scas go. I guess you have to find out if the mix is technically bad for your setup, if you even know what is in there?

Had that happen on my old vw I brought home, vw has all sorts of coolants over the years based on what the materials were made out of and they say the green stuff isn't right so I had to break all that stuff and start fresh(there was allot of corrosion on metal parts) with their pink stuff.

 

[robmoore11]

When I brought my truck home it had an oil cooler leak so the reservoir was full of oil

For me I knew I had to break the whole truck down and get ALL new hoses. I also yanked the block drains and installed those petcock drains to aid in flushing.

Then I installed one of those over the counter backlush kits inline.

I also installed a coolant filter.

I also got a international water pump for $30 so I replaced that(it was nasty inside) to start fresh as I didn't want to touch anything for a long time after the rehaul

I also took a look at the thermostat and replaced with the namebrand that everybody on here says to get, not the local kragen model.

And inside that neck there is a check ball that is held in by a retainer. Thank you previous owner, I had a ton of rtv in my system. It looked so sloppy in that area I am pretty sure it wasn't factory. My check ball valve cavity was completely plugged up so it had no chance of actuating.

As far as flushing, I had to go nuts due to the oil. But I did a handfull of cycles with low sud dishwashing soap and calgon and drove the truck atleast a half an hour at a time. Also with the truck empty I had to completely block off the radiator to heat it up.

Once I did all that I did a couple of the store bought radiator flushes with the last batch having only distilled water. Then I rinsed that as best I could with distilled water and did the final fill.

I would hose that sucker down from the radiator side and the backflush kit for a good 5-10 minutes each way to make sure I had no trace of the soap, etc. With my nose up on the driveway it did seem to take some time for the block to drain out since they are smaller holes and I imagine stuff settles in there.

My coolant is still purple

Anyway it sucks to here and I am not sure if technically you need to change the coolant as far as the scas go. I guess you have to find out if the mix is technically bad for your setup, if you even know what is in there?

Had that happen on my old vw I brought home, vw has all sorts of coolants over the years based on what the materials were made out of and they say the green stuff isn't right so I had to break all that stuff and start fresh(there was allot of corrosion on metal parts) with their pink stuff.

im not sure what coolant was in there. it is pale green looking. and is dirty. im going to do a full flush. i was thinking of opening up where the tstat goes and hooking a hose up somehow and opening bottom of block where hose goes into rad. would that work do you think?

 

[Kevin 007]

Yeah I had to put a TEE hose fitting on a heater line to get minw to flush properly, just wouldn't get hot enough.
My coolant is purple. NAPA HD Diesel coolant, precharge SCA's

 

[robmoore11]

Yeah I had to put a TEE hose fitting on a heater line to get minw to flush properly, just wouldn't get hot enough.
My coolant is purple. NAPA HD Diesel coolant, precharge SCA's

So I can just hook up a garden hose to a heater line and keep bottom hose off block and it should flush out fine?