condensation or water?

[IDIoit]

welp, much to my dismay, im still loosing water.
gonna let it sit for a couple of days and pull the drain plug and see if theres water in the oil.

seems to do ok the first few days of operation, then it starts losing water

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Damn man, that's terrible. I'd just keep driving it and adding to see if it gets worse and you can locate is externally or in the exhaust if its not in the oil. If it's a bad block, maybe add some silver seal, or k seal stop leak to it and see if it slows it down? The worst that'd happen is it could crap up a radiator, the best it finds the tiny crack and seals it. I had a 2 cylinder diesel tractor that had a small crack in the head my machinist found, there were zero replacement parts for it and he said to use some silver seal if it didnt hold. I kept losing coolant slowly so i added some and it held for the 2+ years i used it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Well 3 times two different products....either parts are wonky or something with assembly is whacked...no reason for this either with rtv or elephant snot..

 

[IDIoit]

im so tempted to use that silver seal stuff, just seems like a bandaid on severed limb.

I now have another cover that is not pitted and in great shape.
guess ill be throwing that on in the next few days.

this really does blow.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Stop leak is bad no doubt but you have clean coolant, clean coolant passages and i dont forsee it causing as many problems as the pieces of crap people usually add it to. The stuff does work, many problems are caused by engines that are already leaking having it added to them with impurities such as calcium or magneisum (harness) in the tap water they add to keep topping it off - because people who dont properly maintain dont spend money on di water. It binds with it and gunks crap up. Or worse they add multiple stop leaks to seal things like head gaskets or water pump bearings that will never seal anyway. If you have DI water, sodium nitrite (your SCA), borate (what they buffer glycol alkalinity with), and non phosphate glycol there really shouldnt be much for it to bond with and gunk up. If the leak stops, you can always add a coolant filter and filter out what you dont need in it. Or drain and replace the coolant, then add a tiny bit back just to keep some in it.

If it were a water pump, oil cooler, radiator etc i wouldnt reccomend it, but if its at the point of replacing a blockor head i'd try $14 in sealant to see if it helps as a last resort. It wont seal a head gasket, or cylinder liner, but it'll seal a cracked coolant port or imperfect timing cover.

They have it on Ebay for $33 but you can get it from Amazon for $7

https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Seal-...F8&qid=1473089774&sr=8-1&keywords=silver+seal

 

[79jasper]

Silver seal is great.
You can get it cheaper from the parts stores.
Some won't even know what it is. Lol
Think I've got it from orielly in the past. For sure from bumper to bumper.
I usually put two in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[IDIoit]

today I drained the oil, and pressurized the system.
leaked down pretty good this morning.
with water coming out of the oil pan about a drip every few seconds
I tightened all water pump bolts from the 25 ft lbs I initially did to 35 psi.
the leak seems to have slowed down.
im going to try that silver seal.
worst case is where im at now, where I gotta tear it apart again.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

When you are under pressure say 13psi it may not be leaking. When your engine is running at at pressure from the expanding coolant, say 10 or 12psi your water pump then has the Inlet charged to 10 or 12psi but liquid doesn't flow without a differential so your outlet could be at 25 or 30psi where it's going through the block at the timing cover. Or it could be somewhere in the block.

If you're not getting bubbles from a head gasket, not over heating, not leaking externally, I say try silver seal or kseal. Drain whatever is in your oil and check it regularly and see if it stops. If it doesn't pull it apart. If it does flush and refill or filter until it comes back, if ever. I mean you're already at the point at looking for a block, why not try to seal it and run the hell out of it with no worry for the stop leak. Everyday it doesn't blow up is a gift at this point lol. I have a turbo idit Longblock I drove 200 miles a day I'll gladly sell you if you need a block but I think the silverseal will work in your case being everything is clean on the coolant side.

 

[IDIoit]

its not the block. if it was the block it would have leaked while pressure testing.
remember I pressure tested the engine while it was cold, both with the timing cover in place, and with the block off plates installed.
everytime ive torn it apart, it leaked before, and never leaked with the block off plates on, within 1/2 hour of eachother.

as of right now, im pretty convinced its the cover itself.

as far as my install job, I made sure my gaskets never fell, I got all mating surfaces covered.
im no mechanic, but I know how to wrench. just seems that I have a nack for finding the parts that wanna mess with me.
too bad this wasn't just a negative sign away from being fixed

grabbed alumaseal from the store, no one had silver seal.
went on e-bay and found a sleeve for 33 bucks.
24 tubes. ill use 2 and put the rest on the shelf.
look at the shipping location, and low and behold, same city.
requested a local pick up.
until tomorrow.....

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I included the link for Amazon where it's $7 but would take time to ship. I've used alumaseal before too it works well.

Maybe there could be some stress the block is seeing when it's running. That's the only thing I could think of if not the cover.

 

[IDIoit]

I bought a life time supply, lol

 

[icanfixall]

No matter what you do.. The front gear cover is at fault. Run a straight edge of all the sealing surfaces when you remove it. Take a honing stone to the block seal surfaces. then use it on the cover. The stone I suggest using is the Norton 2 sided stones. Grainger or McMaster Carr both sell them cheap too. A little light oil on the stone helps it cut high spots and eases the resistance too. Any burr becomes an eye shiny place on what you are honing. Sometimes the stone will dragged on the high spot too.

 

[IDIoit]

No matter what you do.. The front gear cover is at fault. Run a straight edge of all the sealing surfaces when you remove it. Take a honing stone to the block seal surfaces. then use it on the cover. The stone I suggest using is the Norton 2 sided stones. Grainger or McMaster Carr both sell them cheap too. A little light oil on the stone helps it cut high spots and eases the resistance too. Any burr becomes an eye shiny place on what you are honing. Sometimes the stone will dragged on the high spot too.

I ran a straight edge on the plates, on the block, and the cover didn't look too bad.
I also stoned the block, but did not stone the cover.

tomorrow ill put new oil in it, and use the silver shat. get it nice and hot, and tighten the bolts down again.

 

[TahoeTom]

Torque is only 14 ft-lb for water pump bolts.

 

[IDIoit]

Torque is only 14 ft-lb for water pump bolts.

yes sir. but the leak slowed down when I tightened it more, figure it cant hurt to try!