Clutch bleeding methods?

[Camarogenius]

So, the price difference in buying a pre-bled assembly, and just buying a master and slave is big enough that I'm going to do it the old fashioned way.

Since I'm replacing both peices, would it be easier to just pull the hose out as well, and bleed the whole thing out of the truck?
I know doing it in the truck involves a couple baths in brake fluid.

 

[Optikalillushun]

i bought a motive power bleeder for things like this.

what about using a hand held vacuum bleeder?

 

[SIKPUP]

This is what I did last year. it's at bottom of this link.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18614

Mike

 

[hahn_rossman]

I've had very good luck bleeding the system by filling it up with brake fluid with all the pieces installed on the truck. Then lying under the truck use a large prybar or screwdriver to push the clutch arm against the slave. Use it to compress the slave. While keeping it compressed use your other hand to loosen the allen bleeder.
This makes it a one person job, so you don't have to keep yelling at the very bored person in the cab of your truck!
Good luck.

 

[hesutton]

You be better off with two guys. Assemble the parts, and bench bleed it. It takes only a few minutes and is much better than fighting the thing on the truck. Keep the plastic strap on the slave rod until after you have bleed the thing and have it mounted on the truck.

Fill the master with brake fluid (DOT3 or 4), have the slave higher than the master (air will naturally move toward the bleeder. Pump the master and hold it. Have your buddy open the bleeder and close it back. Then release the rod on the master. Repeat until no more air comes from the bleeder. Put the cap with rubber diaphram on the master and install both.

Bleeding it on the truck is a real PITA and can take forever.

Heath

 

[Agnem]

All true, but is the way most of us do it. I find it helps if you change the position of the truck periodically while your bleeding it. Nose up/nose down, etc.

 

[FordGuy100]

I've had very good luck bleeding the system by filling it up with brake fluid with all the pieces installed on the truck. Then lying under the truck use a large prybar or screwdriver to push the clutch arm against the slave. Use it to compress the slave. While keeping it compressed use your other hand to loosen the allen bleeder.
This makes it a one person job, so you don't have to keep yelling at the very bored person in the cab of your truck!
Good luck.

This is what I did, except I had my sister make sure that I didnt run out of brake fluid. And I used my hand to push the clutch arm against the slave, a little on the hard side.

 

[Brimmstone]

I've had very good luck bleeding the system by filling it up with brake fluid with all the pieces installed on the truck. Then lying under the truck use a large prybar or screwdriver to push the clutch arm against the slave. Use it to compress the slave. While keeping it compressed use your other hand to loosen the allen bleeder.
This makes it a one person job, so you don't have to keep yelling at the very bored person in the cab of your truck!
Good luck.

As a transmission tech by trade I can say Hahn has it about the closest to how I bleed problem clutches. I have used injector systems, hand bleeder, air-powered bleeders, and the old trick of a blow gun and rubber seal in the fluid reservoir to force the fluid down to the slave.

The one I have found to work the best on our trucks is to get everything mounted in place except for the slave cylinder. Tip the slave so the pushrod is pointing straight down and the line is at the very top. Slowly push the rod back into the slave cylinder. Release the rod and allow it to full extend on it's own. Do this about three times and check your fluid level up top. In 10 years I have never had this fail it works on all external mounted slaves as long as the line is flexible. If you run into any problems send me a PM and I'll give you any advice you need.

 

[h2odrx]

All true, but is the way most of us do it. I find it helps if you change the position of the truck periodically while your bleeding it. Nose up/nose down, etc.

That would be hard for me it's all flat here!

 

[Camarogenius]

Okay, So I can't test drive it yet, as the fuel tanks won't be back in until tomorrow, but here's what I've got.
It doesn't feel as firm as I'd hoped, but I've got about an inch and a half of travel on the clutch fork.
How's that? Should I bleed it again?

 

[Brimmstone]

I go by the amount of free travel at the pedal. You should have about an inch of free travel before you feel pressure from the clutch.