Bleeding Clutch System

Okay, I've already done a search.
First of all, I am pretty sure all the air is out of the system by now, its possible maybe that its not but I doubt it. We bleed our systems a little different that what you guys do.

Our problem now is almost like the master doesnt hold enough fluid to work the whole thing.
It goes into gear but barely.

Just in case its possible that its an air in the line issue, somone walk me through the whole process. If theres air in it its in the master.

Otherwise let me know what you think.
Has new bushings in the carrier and new pin. Has the kit installed on the firewall.

bleading

When I did mine I actually took the line from the mastercyl. in emersad it in a cup of brake fluid and worked the slave cyl. by hand untill there was no bubbles.
Then hooked it back up to a full master and away I went.
The hardest thing is getting the slave back on the bell housing once it was blead.
Maybe try doing it on the bell housing under the truck.
Good luck
John

I prefer to pressure bleed clutch systems. For some reason, many of them seem to retain trapped air when bled the normal way.
Here's how I do it: I get a NEW pump-type oil can, the type with a trigger that squirts the oil. Fill it with brake fluid and operate it until it pumps good and steady; no air bubbles. Empty out most of the brake fluid that is in the Master Cylinder. Push a clear vinyl tube onto the nozzle of the pump, and the other end onto the bleeder nipple after you've loosened it a turn or so. Make sure the oiler is FULL of brake fluid ( you do not want to pump AIR into the system!) and operate it until you've got a good amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Pull the vinyl tubing off the bleeder and close it. Done

Neat trick Michael. Never thought of doing it that way. The problem is the slave doesn't have a bleeder nipple, at least non of my trucks do. What I do Shawn, is park the truck on an incline, forward facing up hill, and do the conventional bleed there. Conventional bleed - master cylinder cap off, rubber out, and open to atmosphere, full of fluid. Push pedal in all the way, loosen slave bleed screw, let out air, close, return pedal and repeat. Once your done, turn the truck around (nose down) and repeat. Once your done, turn the truck around (nose up) and repeat. Takes two people, and a good hour. Yes, you may have to start it in gear to get it where you need it since obviously you don't have a working clutch yet.

Cool guys!
Thanks!
Some new ideas there.

It's been posted here before. In really bad cases you have to pull the circlip from the rod side (inside the cab) of the master cylinder (with everything mounted and in place). Slowly and gently pull the backside of the master cylinder out using the rod. You can pull it back and tilt it inside the bore of the master cylinder such that you only get an opening in the top of the bore. Once open to air the master cylinder fills the void with fluid from your reservoir. After all the air is out and you are getting fluid, gently slide the back into the master cylinder and install your circlip. Make sure you have a couple of rags around the opening. It doesn' t come out fast, but has the potential to make a mess.

This bleeds the master cylinder only. If you have air in the slave cylinder you'll need to bleed that like some have stated above.

Good luck,

Paul

just drive it thats what i did when i had to emergency patch it at work and couldn't bleed until i got home. well by the time i got home (20 mins highway) it worked fine and never had a problem since. not the recommended way but if you got it good enough to drive any residual air "should" work its way out.

bleeding stuff the manual way is no fun, i open the bleeder and let it gravity feed until it looks clear then shut it up. i usually nail it that way.

i am unable to find any bleeders on my clutch system. i have air in there and my clutch is not releasing. where should i be looking for bleeders?

69oiler said:

i am unable to find any bleeders on my clutch system. i have air in there and my clutch is not releasing. where should i be looking for bleeders?

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All the ones I've changed have been on top of the slave next to the line in. Unfortuantely, the only one I've had that had an actual bleeder was the original. All others since then have just had an allen head plug in the spot. If you don't know where it's at, you'll never see it laying under the truck looking up. And that was all on external slaves...don't have any experience with internal slaves.

Learned a trick on some performance car website. I bought a $5 pump sprayer from Home Depot. Rigged up a hose from the pump sprayer to a fitting I put in a spare MC cap. Fill the sprayer with brake fluid and bleed it out as best as you can, pump up the sprayer, open the bleeder at the slave, squeeze the trigger and let 'er rip. Any air that's in the sparayer will stay in the top of the MC provided you don't let it go empty. It worked for me.

Tom

Most of the slave cyl have a small hole below that allen head screw. I have a phoenix injector but a turkey baster will work. Take the lid off the master pull the fluid out of the master, open the allen head and shove either the injector of the baster in the hole and push brake fluid in it until fluid comes out the top of the master.

usualy I use the block it out method. first off gravity bleed it out then with scraps of wood wedged between the bellhousing and the clutch fork block the piston to the furthest extent of travel. after it's fully extended then i pump bleed it. seems to work on chevys with the juice clutch too.

Michael Fowler said:

I prefer to pressure bleed clutch systems. For some reason, many of them seem to retain trapped air when bled the normal way.
Here's how I do it: I get a NEW pump-type oil can, the type with a trigger that squirts the oil. Fill it with brake fluid and operate it until it pumps good and steady; no air bubbles. Empty out most of the brake fluid that is in the Master Cylinder. Push a clear vinyl tube onto the nozzle of the pump, and the other end onto the bleeder nipple after you've loosened it a turn or so. Make sure the oiler is FULL of brake fluid ( you do not want to pump AIR into the system!) and operate it until you've got a good amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Pull the vinyl tubing off the bleeder and close it. Done

Click to expand...

I just got back from installing a new clutch M/C, hose and slave cylinder on my 93 with the no bleeder screw type slave cylinder. I read up on everything I could find. I filled the slave cylinder with the rod extened at a 45 degree angle with an oil can of brake fluid , then slowly worked out the air bubbles . I let that sit and put the new hose on the master cylinder. I than took the oil can and hose ,and filled the m/c from the hose so the air would push out the m/c and then had brake fluid in the m/c. I plugged the clear hose and left it on the end of the clutch hose. Now I installed the m/c and hose from the top with the bottem end of the hose plugged. At this point I added some fluid to the m/c so that when I pulled off the plugged hose I would have enough fluid not to run dry. Next I pushed the slave cylinder rod back to clip the plastic straps back on. then added some more fluid. I slid under the truck clipped on the slave cylinder, pulled of clear plugged hose from metal line added the o ring washer and plugged it into slave cylinder and installed roll pin. Got out from under the truck and put the new push rod and clip onto clutch pedal. I now have a very firm pedal the first time... The trick is to get the air out of all the pieces on the bench, so your not fighting it all on the truck. and the way I did it I only had one connection to make under the truck.
This worked for me..... Mike