Charging question

Old Goat

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The tool that NAPA uses to crimp on the Ring Terminal, (or what ever end you use) will depend on what ever that store uses.

The store I use probably use the hammer stake method.

I have read pro`s and con`s using Solder.
Mine was crimped and then I slipped on some heat Shrink.
I check my oil about every morning before starting the engine. She starting to have a drinking problem, a sip here and there and it adds up.
I always take a gander at the batteries and connections as I give her a once over.
Stay on top of stuff, and take care of the little things, keeps me out of trouble.

My positive cable from the Drivers side to pass side actually came out of a BMW that had the Battery in the trunk. Cable runs from there up the passenger side up to the engine. Just about 12ft long.
At the time (probably 12 years ago was $5.)
Used the Battery Clamp end on drivers side, and Pass side crimped on a Ring terminal.
The piece that runs down to the Starter is the original, and Ring terminal it. I should replace it too.

We also upgraded the wire to the GP Relay (86 6.9) and Starter relay (I think) to a 6 gauge.

When we bought the truck, the cables were in a big mess of corrosion.

Goat
 

XOLATEM

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This is what I used out in the field to get the equipment running and working...


This is close to what I used when I worked at an equipment dealer...

That was the cats meow...if you have all of the right lugs and connectors and a selection of cable...

Cable fabrication possibilities are out there...
 

ROCK HARVEY

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If you have a nice big vise you can probably figure out how to use it to crimp the cables as well. I think you’d be hard pressed to make it for much less than you can buy them pre-made though. Here’s one for $105 on Amazon:

 

Jesus Freak

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Here's a picture of my cables. I just cut the old ends off and...... well..... just look at the picture, you'll figure it out.

I do fence work sometimes and the crimpers that you can buy tractor supply for doing high tensile wire make the crimp you see on my lugs. I load them up with dielectric grease and squeeze away!
 

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Old Goat

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nelstomlinson

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XOLATEM

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heavy duty Crimper from West Marine for $295, is $25 on this site.
Lordy...if they are both the same thing or comparable quality then I would chance a few bucks and try one out...

I should have gotten the name of the manufacturer of the big one I used to use...have not found it...but it would have been great if you use it frequently...

You sure seem talented in finding stuff...all I can do is just take a stab at it...just don't have the time or patience.

I could use a good crimper...thanks for the input.
 

BeastMaster

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This link is from old goat's post for the crimper...


It was a little uninformative as to what dies shipped with it... A kit? Only one?


Well, there is a "choose size" selector. So I did.

Well, after that, I came to the notion that those people may not know what a crimper is used for...

Possible explanation...some business used an AI to prepare their web site...and to it, a crimper is a shoe? And it certainly hasn't ever used one, so how would it know?
 
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Old Goat

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It`s the same part# XOLATUM posted above
with West Marine.

I bet the real expensive one and the cheaper $25 one probably all made China.

Goat
 

Clb

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West marine is proud of their stuff.
Boat snobs are gullible at times...
 

Jesus Freak

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West marine is proud of their stuff.
Boat snobs are gullible at times...

Specialty shops jack the priced through the roof. normal.
Like JD is proud of their green paint.


Goat
And motorhomes! They carry a premium too!

I aspire to a JD one day. A late 60s early 70s 1520 or there abouts. As soon as a rich uncle dies and leaves me his fortune I'll be able to buy a broken wore out one and fix it!
 

BeastMaster

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I'd much rather own an old machine that is truly mine, rather than merely being responsible for maintaining a payment stream for something burdened with terms, conditions, backdoors, DRM enforcement, contracts of adhesion, maintenance agreements, and whatever other legal entanglements the seller may demand I agree to before he will close the sale.

I have had to walk out on many purchase opportunities over the requirement to sign burdensome agreements. Fine print, confusing, too long.

It's often harder to deal with the salespeople than it is to find a used one being sold by an individual who isn't so interested in legal entrapment of the buyer. The seller will guarantee the thing to be in stated condition, and I agree to surrender United States currency, or something else with similar guarantee that it is what I claimed it was. Done. And if either party didn't get what was promised... Undone. We both know if it has to go in front of the Magistrate, we both lose big time to the lawyers fee.
 

mf7lakes

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End of this chapter --- bought & installed the made-up NAPA positive cable for this truck -- the cable between the 2 batteries was a 2/0 (so was the portion running to the starter) and was a little too long -- turned the drivers battery to where pos pole was on the outside -- worked great.

Peeled back the insulation near the terminals and there was heavy green stuff on the inside of the cables -- the wires themselves were in pretty good shape -- just that surface corrosion, but do think it continued into the terminal itself.
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Did have to re-use the trigger wire from the starter relay -- PITA getting it out of the cable protector & the cable holder attached to the block.
 

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