Changing injectors this weekend

[TangTonic]

Hey guys,


The Caribbean IDI is still going strong. I received the injectors and return line kit I ordered from Type4. I plan on putting them in this weekend.

First, I will install a new fuel filter and start the truck to make sure everything is primed up before starting on the job. If I understand the process correctly, I need to remove the steel lines from each injector, probably easiest by removing the clip right? Then use a deep socket to remove old injector and pray that there is no carbon buildup preventing me from pulling it out. If copper washer comes out with it good, if not use a pick to remove. Apply anti sieze to threads on new injector and vasoline to the copper washer and install and torque to 30 pounds. Anything else I need to do?

The return lines I haven't done as much research on, but I assume that as I remove each old return line, I just make sure the new one I install looks identical to the one removed. Does this sound right?

So in preparation for this job, are there any special tools or have I missed any crucial steps? Also, if I don't run into any problems, how long should I expect this to take? I won't be changing the IP pump, so I'm really hoping since the truck is only at 106K, it can last a bit longer. I'll replace the pump when I am able to rent a timing meter from icanfixall.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help you can give me.

 

[typ4]

thank goodness they made it safe this time.

 

[hesutton]

The injectors...... torque them to 35 ft/lbs.

Otherwise, it sounds like you've got pretty well covered.

Let us know how it goes.


Heath

 

[TangTonic]

thanks typ4, really appreciate it!

 

[icanfixall]

Well the torque is not 30 but its 35 lbs like Heath said. If any injectors come unscrewed and the tip stays in the head all you do is grind all the threads off the barrel of the old injector. Then screw it back into the stuck tip and wiggle or slide hammer it out. Some Aerokroil or PB Blaster will help to loosen the stuck tip sometimes too. About removing the hrad line clamps and bolts. Please remember to install them when your done. If you feel like they are of no use and leave even one of them off... you will break a hard line from the injection pump fuel pulses. Its that critical to use them. What I have found is those short bolts are just tooo damned short to get back together. So I replaced them with 3/4 inch long bolts. They are 1/4x28 bolts too. I also place a shop rag under the rear of the injection pump just in case something falls into the valley pan. With my luck it runs all the way to the back of the pan under the intake manifold.. When you remove an injector and you find some carbon buildup in the bore look for a compression leak cut in the copper gasket and the head seating surface. Use a flashlite and a straight dental pick. Drag the pointed end around the head seat. If it sticks anywhere its got a cut. Then you will need a seat reamer cleaner to cut out the bad area. They look like an injecter with a cutter head on the end of them. The cast iron they cut off is very small and any that possibily drops into the cylinder is not going to harm anything. Some put a coat of heavy grease on the cutter end to hold the cuttings. Heres hopeing you wont find this issue but at least you will be able to fix it if found.

 

[Black dawg]

I like to squirt some penetrating oil at the threads of the injectors awhile before I plan on removing them. The oil soaks down past the threads, and makes removal very easy.

 

[TangTonic]

Man I love this forum, you guys are the best! Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to update after the install. Hopefully won't have to come on here mid-project for help.

 

[icanfixall]

If you need help mid install you know there will be someone here to help. This forum nevers closes... I'll bet the front door doesn't even have a lock on it...

 

[gandalf]

Per Gary's reply about an injector separating when you unscrew it, pull it out. I had one do just that when I replaced injectors. I did exactly as Gary posted. The procedure was explained to me by Towcat. It worked like a charm, very easy to do. The modified injector screws right into the tip left in the hole, and it pulls right out.

Attached are two pictures. One is a modified injector, with the threads taken off (the tip is still screwed on). The second picture is of an injector, end on, with the tip removed. If you look carefully you can see why I replaced the injectors.

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[riotwarrior]

... This forum nevers closes... I'll bet the front door doesn't even have a lock on it...

There is front a door...where have I been all this time....been sneaking in the side window all this time

 

[rockbender]

I had a few stubborn washers to get out of the injector bores. I found that by taking a correctly sized regular screwdriver (it will have slightly tapered sides) and giving it the slightest tap through the washer hole will wedge the washer on the screwdriver. A little twist to break it loose and the washer should come out on the end of the screwdriver.
I also had some carbon build up where the injector seats in the head when I did mine recently. I took a piece of #4 battery cable, stripped back about 3/4" of insulation and then splayed out the copper strands to the approximate diameter of the injector seat. I then put a fabric or paper shop towel swab on the end of the strands (with enough length that I was holding a piece of the swab at all times too) and put it in the injector bore and spun it around a few times. Keep repeating with clean swabs until they come out clean. It worked really well for me.

 

[dgr]

Timing?

 

[Agnem]

You've read This.... http://oilburners.net/brian/idi/FuelInjectionServicing.htm

The torque is 33 foot pounds. Factory spec is 30-35, and I've got a dollar that says your torque wrench is not calibrated well enough to be within 2 pounds of 30 or 35.

 

[TangTonic]

Well, I chickened out........


Not really, actually I decided it would be pretty dumb to just do the injectors. I like to do things the right way so I will get a new IP pump and do injectors at the same time.

Any suggestions on where to get a IP pump from? I know there is oregonfuelinjection.com. Any other recommendations?

Also since the timing meter rental program is on hold, should I go ahead and get a ferret adapter and actron timing light per OLDBULL's post about timing with those tools?

Once again, all the help is appreciated!

 

[hesutton]

Get a "Baby Moose" from Mel (Agnem).

Heath