Center Support Bearing (Drive Shaft)

[laserjock]

May be better than you think. As long as it didn't beat the splines up. You are aware that some years with the ubolt holders were ******** that had larger caps than the standard 1330 joints. I think the caps were 1.125 in diameter. So it looks like a conversion joint. I beleive it's also a little wider as the caps I think were also a little thicker on the end. Depending on the dimensions it's possible it could be one of those you got.

Just tossing that out there.

 

[catbird7]

Sounds about right / par for the course! It was a weird u-joint. It was square 3.6" however the caps were very slightly different diameter. I think they were 1.125" & 1.06". You look at stuff like this and it really makes you wonder what the heck they were thinking when they designed it??? I have a 1989 rear from the F350 parts truck which had new gears installed a few years back, maybe I'll swap the entire thing after hunting season???

 

[laserjock]

Sounds about right / par for the course! It was a weird u-joint. It was square 3.6" however the caps were very slightly different diameter. I think they were 1.125" & 1.06". You look at stuff like this and it really makes you wonder what the heck they were thinking when they designed it??? I have a 1989 rear from the F350 parts truck which had new gears installed a few years back, maybe I'll swap the entire thing after hunting season???

Yep that's the ******* one. On the short list once I get mine running and driving is a crush sleeve eliminator and I may swap the yoke off my 4.10 onto the 3.55. It was the later strap style.

 

[Leroy]

glad you pinpointed the problem ..

though .. i wouldn't use moog u-joints ..

i've tried moog .. they used to make good stuff but not anymore ..

spicer is by far the best .. without spending $200 on an aftermarket joint ..

i think i paid like 13$ each for the oem spicer joints at carquest ..

and yep ^^ the rear is a ******* joint .. different sized cups ..

 

[nj_m715]

I'm replacing a worn center bearing. I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153YS6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it came just just as the pics show w/o instructions. I placed the large washer/dust guard on the shaft and tapped the bearing on with a pipe. it stopped dead, about 1/4 inch short of where it looks it should be.

I have replaced hundreds of bearing in my day. I know the feeling when the seat, I gave it few more whacks and started to mushroom the pipe.

I'm starting to think this could be missing part of the seal to take up that last 1/4 inch.
I expected it to look like this:

https://www.oilburners.net/attachments/9a0504af-1210-4adc-930e-53c052fe54a0_zpstnnmczxq-jpg.109089/

I don't see how the other side would seal either. there's nothing to keep that large washer from rattling around on the shaft once it's assembled

it's not a directional bearing, at least it doesn't have any markings
I wasn't able to find any install info on timken's site or anywhere else

 

[nj_m715]

without the zip ties and washer, it looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Timken-HB885...=B00153VN0M&psc=1&refRID=W6F7WK9W6QYKNWAZXT05

should I be concerned about that space?
I have half a mind to cut that washer off, install it and run it

what do you think?

 

[nj_m715]

this guy has the same space ***?

@7min 50 sec??

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media