Center Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing

[HammerDown]

Hey fellas...anyone know the inside bearing diameter of the support bearing on a 1988 F250 supercab 4×4?
I can't locate my recipe and need the diameter before I can order it. Parts houses are listing three sizes.
I have not removed the drive shaft yet!
Thanks!

 

[MTKirk]

Hey fellas...anyone know the inside bearing diameter of the support bearing on a 1988 F250 supercab 4×4?
I can't locate my recipe and need the diameter before I can order it. Parts houses are listing three sizes.
I have not removed the drive shaft yet!
Thanks!

Don't know if this will help but:

My 87 f250 ext cab 4x4 takes the bearing with an ID of 1.3780", unfortunately it's really hard to measure yours while it's in the truck. However if you measure the small diameter section between the splines and the carrier and it is 1.16" +/_ a hundredth, I'd be willing to bet your house that your truck also takes a 1.3780" ID bearing.

If the aforementioned shaft is bigger by around 2 tens of an inch (1.36" +/-), then I'd be willing to bet my mother in law's house that it will take a 1.5748" ID bearing.

There's a bigger size, but I don't think it was ever standard on an F250.

 

[crash-harris]

I know NAPA got mine right. The Autozone one I brought them was smaller (the only one availible for my truck via AZ). I visually verified it, but I can't remember the measurements.

 

[HammerDown]

Don't know if this will help but:

My 87 f250 ext cab 4x4 takes the bearing with an ID of 1.3780", unfortunately it's really hard to measure yours while it's in the truck. However if you measure the small diameter section between the splines and the carrier and it is 1.16" +/_ a hundredth, I'd be willing to bet your house that your truck also takes a 1.3780" ID bearing.

If the aforementioned shaft is bigger by around 2 tens of an inch (1.36" +/-), then I'd be willing to bet my mother in law's house that it will take a 1.5748" ID bearing.

There's a bigger size, but I don't think it was ever standard on an F250.

Thanks for that...my local advance and Auto Zone have it in stock...I'm on it tomorrow.
Sure hope nothing else needs fixing till Spring!

 

[HammerDown]

1.3780 it is...off to get parts and also replacing the back u-joint...it's ribbed.

 

[MTKirk]

1.3780 it is...off to get parts and also replacing the back u-joint...it's ribbed.

Remember the torque spec. on the 5/16 U-bolts is ONLY 8-15 ft-lbs!! if 3/8" then 17-26. Barely past finger tight. They definitely need to be cleaned up and have fresh blue loctite on them or they'll be coming loose shortly.

 

[HammerDown]

Done deal, and I also replaced the very rear U-joint too. Suprised that all the different carrier bearings I inspected none were a 'sealed'bearing.
Oh well the Federal Mogul carrier bearing has a three year warranty and the Moog U-joint is lifetime.
This is the first time I used heat to remove the inner race...worked nicely.

 

[riotwarrior]

Done deal, and I also replaced the very rear U-joint too. Suprised that all the different carrier bearings I inspected none were a 'sealed'bearing.
Oh well the Federal Mogul carrier bearing has a three year warranty and the Moog U-joint is lifetime.
This is the first time I used heat to remove the inner race...worked nicely.

Aint that bad....aint that bad...said as Rocky did in first Rocky movie

Hope cures what was issue

 

[HammerDown]

Aint that bad....aint that bad...said as Rocky did in first Rocky movie

Hope cures what was issue

Done deal, until something else needs fixing.

 

[HammerDown]

Remember the torque spec. on the 5/16 U-bolts is ONLY 8-15 ft-lbs!! if 3/8" then 17-26. Barely past finger tight. They definitely need to be cleaned up and have fresh blue loctite on them or they'll be coming loose shortly.

I've always snugged them evenly and real good...Blue Loctite is a good idea but, they never came loose.
If too tight could the U-bolt distort the harden bearing cap?

 

[MTKirk]

I've always snugged them evenly and real good...Blue Loctite is a good idea but, they never came loose.
If too tight could the U-bolt distort the harden bearing cap?

Absolutely, it's hard to tell how free the u-joints are moving with fresh factory grease, but; if you were to wash out all the grease then put in a thin oil instead, so they moved very freely, you would be able to feel that over torquing even a tiny bit causes a ton of drag. Said drag wears down the rollers increasing slop, then the joint starts to shake. The only other thing that can wear out a u-joint not having enough grease to keep dirt & moisture out ('course you can always break them).

 

[HammerDown]

Absolutely, it's hard to tell how free the u-joints are moving with fresh factory grease, but; if you were to wash out all the grease then put in a thin oil instead, so they moved very freely, you would be able to feel that over torquing even a tiny bit causes a ton of drag. Said drag wears down the rollers increasing slop, then the joint starts to shake. The only other thing that can wear out a u-joint not having enough grease to keep dirt & moisture out ('course you can always break them).

Well, then I had better craw underneath again I loosen them up!
DONE DEAL still snug but not like before, and I used a short 3/8 wrench.

 

[MTKirk]

It's hard to get a torque wrench on the nuts without an extension (which nullifies your reading) so "practice" torquing a 5/16" nut on a bolt in a vice, then try tightening & loosening it with a stubby wrench to get a feel for the torque. Then use the stubby under the truck remembering what that torque felt like. You will be able to get very close like this, well within factory range. Locktite is a must. You could stake the nuts in a pinch, but then you might need new u-bolts if you ever have to take the driveline out (any bumps will mess with your torque setting).