catastrophic engine damage

[rip van sparky]

On Wed. on the way home my truck suffered catastrophic engine damage. Thanks to AAA for the 50 mi ride home on a F650 rollback. I am leaving to pick up another engine right now that I am getting for $700, he was asking a $1000 but took pity on me. He knows about sca's and 100% guarantees it. It has about 150k on it. I am due to move to Mississippi in two weeks so I need to be able to swap this fast, I was wondering if anyone had advice on how to do this as quick as possible. I will probably do the flywheel mod while I am in there. Also, should I replace the rear main seal as well? I will replace the oil pan gasket too. Probably valve cover gaskets as well. One other thing, it came out of a van with an automagic so I know there will be some things I will have to change.
thanks for your help

 

[NJKen]

On an engine with 150K change any seal or gasket that might be considered a pain in the butt later. It is cheap insurance .
If you need to swing it fast make sure that you have all your parts beforehand. If you do not have a good cherry picked to get it out go rent one. It will make your life that much easier. Make sure you hae a competant friend/helper on hand too as some of the removal and instaltion is a 2 man job.
Best of Luck
Ken

 

[stiesel]

if you rent an engine hoist, ask them if the also have a engine leveler. it makes it so much easier to get the motor in and out.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Sparky,

Might also consider checking the head gasket on your replacement motor also.
Trust me I learned that one the hard way. See 1st pic as I overlooked the HG failure as bad valve cover gaskets.
I'd definitly hit all the gaskets while ya got it out as it sure does make life easier. On the rear main, get a good tube of some Permatex, (blk high heat) and load up the rear pan area good otherwise you will have activated Fords anti corrosion system premature.
A little tip on reinstall, jacking the trans up a bit higher that level will make things go into place a bit easier if dropping the motor in over the core support and an engine leveler is gonna be a plus too as ya cant' wiggle these babies around on the chain by yerself to get a smidgin of a better angle.
Also if it still has the van fuel filter head and bracket assembly keep a hold onto it, you can do a sweet coolant filter mod using the stock pickup F/F brackets while using the van F/F setup. See pics 2 & 3.

Good luck on the time crunch. If ya have everything all set ready to go ya can have that thing out and ready to go back in within a good half a day if'n ya got the energy.

 

[yARIC008]

What happend to the old engine anyways?

 

[akoldnav]

Rebuild the oil cooler while the engine is out. It is a real pain to remove it as I found out earlier this winter.

akoldnav

 

[Exekiel69]

Rebuild the oil cooler while the engine is out. It is a real pain to remove it as I found out earlier this winter.

akoldnav

I think I read some place that doing it on a van is much easier than in our f series, but I been wrong before .

Hey Ron You may want to give Me some tips on my post I can see the gascket that looks like a triangle around the main seal, but what did you meant by "On the rear main, get a good tube of some Permatex, (blk high heat) and load up the rear pan area good"?

 

[typ4]

I know for a fact that the van oil cooler front housing is different and WILL NOT fit in a pickup. I dont know if the filter head end is different but I would pull yours off and as previously advised reseal it and swap it out.
A local shop here always pulls the core support because that heavy engine on a rented picker makes for a wobbly situation.
Good luck and have fun.
Russ

 

[towcat]

I had a good supply of van motors for a little while, but they have dried up a few years ago. mostly psd van motors around now. As far as your van motor is concerned, you will defeninitely have to change the oil cooler assy, the driver's side exhaust manifold and the motor mount brackets. what will be optional is the IP and the lines. but any casual eye looking at your truck later on will be able to pick out that there was a conversion done at one time.

 

[oldmisterbill]

I am usually home,I sent you a PM with my phone# Call me anytime and as many times as needed for any information you may need to help you through this . Mr Bill

 

[rip van sparky]

Okay guys, great advice. I forgot about an engine leveler, I had one years ago but where did it go? I bet I can get one. Here is a pic of my hoist setup swapping a 351. The electric hoist makes it so nice. The guy I bought it off of said he would guarantee it for 30 days, we'll see. He also threw in the radiator with it, mine is starting to appear to be a little thin in the top tank. Hopefully I will remember to take lots of pics.

 

[Agnem]

Having done it now, I'd have to say my personal vote would be to pull the front clip. It's really not that hard, and gives you an opportunity to improve on a few things while your in there. Chances are your core support and frame mounts have some rust that really needs to be dealt with.

 

[rip van sparky]

Mel, if I remove the front clip can I pull the engine/tranny out all at once? It would be easier to get them back together out than in. I helped a buddy change one of these in a F450 and it was a nightmare getting them back together.

 

[Agnem]

Yes! That is one of the big reasons I like doing it that way. I put the engine and C6 in the Bronco as a single unit like this. Only the oil filter and starter need to be removed.

 

[yARIC008]

Here is pictures of an E series block oil cooler holes.

http://www.samantha.cc/images/Truck/Oilcooler/rear-block-holes2.jpg
http://www.samantha.cc/images/Truck/Oilcooler/front-block-holes.jpg

and then if you can see anything, here are these

http://www.samantha.cc/images/Truck/Oilcooler/misc2.jpg
http://www.samantha.cc/images/Truck/Oilcooler/misc1.jpg

There are more on my site.

You can get the cooler off a van without removing anything.