Can someone please confirm the accelerator (throttle) cable PN?

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Hey all -

Well, one step forward, two steps back. I timed the truck this morning using the super awesome timing kit rented out by icanfixall (Gary). Worked splendidly, btw. But, while trying to get a wrench on some of the injector lines at the IP to get a bit more movement out of the pump, I snagged the throttle cable and snapped the plastic sleeve inside that the spring rides on, so now it binds. Talked to Gary about it and tried to get creative with some homegrown fixes, but the plastic is just so brittle that it all started falling apart.

Seeing how this is a pretty safety-critical item, I'm gonna bite the bullet and replace it. Not messing around with aftermarket, either. So, can someone confirm the OEM PN for me? I've found two. First is E9TZ-9A758-U. Second is F1TZ-9A758-E, which I found in the Parts Bin. If it makes a difference, the truck is a 5-speed with cruise control.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?5384-the-parts-bin


On the plus side, at least I got the timing done, lol! Was 3 degrees BTDC. Now is 8-8.5 (@ 2000RM).

Mike
 

icanfixall

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That part number is found in the forum called The Parts Bin. I just was looking for that forum and can't find it. ?Can someone point it out cause I'm not smart but I am special...:angel:
 

towcat

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Hey all -

Well, one step forward, two steps back. I timed the truck this morning using the super awesome timing kit rented out by icanfixall (Gary). Worked splendidly, btw. But, while trying to get a wrench on some of the injector lines at the IP to get a bit more movement out of the pump, I snagged the throttle cable and snapped the plastic sleeve inside that the spring rides on, so now it binds. Talked to Gary about it and tried to get creative with some homegrown fixes, but the plastic is just so brittle that it all started falling apart.

Seeing how this is a pretty safety-critical item, I'm gonna bite the bullet and replace it. Not messing around with aftermarket, either. So, can someone confirm the OEM PN for me? I've found two. First is E9TZ-9A758-U. Second is F1TZ-9A758-E, which I found in the Parts Bin. If it makes a difference, the truck is a 5-speed with cruise control.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?5384-the-parts-bin


On the plus side, at least I got the timing done, lol! Was 3 degrees BTDC. Now is 8-8.5 (@ 2000RM).

Mike
the suffix "E" part number is one I entered into the parts bin and I have bought many with that number. if it has been superseded, the local stealership will let you know.
hope this helps.
 

8seconds

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incanfixall,

Go to idi tech articles; top of this page, then go to second page and 3/4's of the way down.

Correction: go to idi tech articles which is the top of the general forum page, then go to page two and 3/4's of the way down.
 
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That part number is found in the forum called The Parts Bin. I just was looking for that forum and can't find it. ?Can someone point it out cause I'm not smart but I am special...:angel:

Parts bin link is in my original post.

Just got off the phone with my usual Ford parts place (White Bear Lake Ford in MN, formally Tousley Ford). They show the PN for mine to be E9TZ-9A578-U. Their website recognized the other PN, but seems to think that the other PN is only for OBS trucks? No idea why they're different, but the first PN was the one their system for my vehicle, so that's the one I ordered.

Got the old one out. Really not too bad of a job, but the Banks kit makes it a little more difficult. I couldn't get the heat shield off the back of the intake manifold, so I undid one side and then kinda fished it out and around being careful not to disturb the oil return line for the turbo.

Question for those with a Banks.... My throttle cable, cruise cable, and the glow plug harness were all routed under the heat shield (the one that bolts in where the CDR was) and were also wrapped in heat block material (aluminum stuff with fiberglass sandwiched in it). I kinda had to annihilate the material to get everything apart and get the cable out. Is it necessary to re-wrap everything?

Mike
 

Garbage_Mechan

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My experience is YES there is enough heat there to cause the cable to melt.

Another observation: There are aftermarket cables available, but they should be used as emergency spares only since they have much more friction ("stiction") and make your foot tired quicly.

It should be a given to everyone that is that sleeve you describe is broken, the throttle WILL begin doing something undesired.
 

BrandonMag

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Question for those with a Banks.... My throttle cable, cruise cable, and the glow plug harness were all routed under the heat shield (the one that bolts in where the CDR was) and were also wrapped in heat block material (aluminum stuff with fiberglass sandwiched in it). I kinda had to annihilate the material to get everything apart and get the cable out. Is it necessary to re-wrap everything?

YES.

I don't have a Banks, but I do have a Hypermax. I replaced my throttle cable last year and it quickly melted due to the high heat created by the turbo. Went back to the parts store, bought another throttle cable and some heat shielding. It's been over a year and I haven't had any problems.
 

icanfixall

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That bunch o cables need that heat wrapper on them. Banks will sell that piece too but you need to give them some chest hair. Why they are so proud of their parts is beyond me. That is an interesting piece of heat wrap too. Nicelt made for what it is. Glad you found the right throttle cable. It hell installing the wrong one or an ill fitting aftermarket one. Its really tuff for me to work way back there on anything. I hate even more working under the dash of any car or truck.
 

Guntherx

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I had one snap in two while towing. I wen to Advance Auto and got it there. Perfect fit no problem.
 

idiabuse

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HEY GUYS!
I fixed that broken cable junk with a pen cap. Never sticks ever again.
I drove years with that junk, hit it the wrong way and ur stuck with 1/8 throttle
or worse wide open.
So years looking at it I looked at a pen cap one day and laughed.
sliced a bullet style pencap in half and slid it in covering the broke sleeve.
Next order was a spring to make it work right cause the OEM spring is
not seated anymore.
So a piece of aluminum L bracket bolted to the Alt brkt at the water pump
and a spring I had laying around fit perfectly.

Done fixed like new again.

If you want pics I sure can deliver, don't make me do it!


JAvier
 
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So, is there a step in the Banks turbo install instructions that says "cram a bunch of insulation material in the intake valley below the CDR location to soak up fluid leaks"?

I ask because I got the cable in today (the -U PN) and during the install, I found a huge pile of stringy, oily stuff jammed into the intake valley down near where the oil drain tube for the turbo goes in. I found it because one of the damn bolts from the Banks heat shield fell back there, but didn't make the usual 'clink' noise you would normally expect. So imagine my surprise when I started to root around under the shield a little more and found two fistfuls of crap under there.

Now, it could be that I stumbled onto a rat's nest. With the low miles on the truck, it definitely spent a long portion of its life sitting somewhere at some point. But, if that was the case, I would have expected to find some of the insulation on the firewall or the piece on the bottom of the hood chewed up. They're not. My guess is that this is a previous owner's half-ass attempt at 'fixing' an oil or fuel leak.

The stuff had wet oil on it, which tells me I may have a leak at the spot where the drain plug goes into the intake. But the truck doesn't drip or lose a single drop, so maybe this is all residual? Only way to know is to drive it, I guess. For now, I got it all out of there since I figured a clump of oily and easily combustible material that close to the turbo is asking for trouble.

Just waiting on the insulation sleeve at this point. Couldn't get a hold of Banks, so I went with this: http://www.amazon.com/010405-Alumin...TF8&qid=1376094755&sr=8-1&keywords=DEI+010405

Should do the trick, I hope.

Can't wait to get this guy back on the road!!!

Mike
 
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