C6 to ZF5 swap. really.

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

That looks like it will work.

The majority of the torque load will be on the drivers side so unless you do some serious backwards driving, yer good.

 

[dieselutheran2]

Okay. I finally bit the bullet and cleaned out the garage enough to back my truck in. The C6 is out and the zf5 is in. Time to button up some loose ends.

The cross member doesn't exactly fit in the right place for the zf5. I want to take the CM out and drill new holes about 1" back from the originals. I'm looking for a good right angle drill to do the job on the upper frame rail.

The trans sits pretty high, there is only about .5" room between the top of the trans and the floor of the truck. Does this sound too tight to anybody? Any way to lower the trans another .5" or so?

Wiring. I just finished searching for wiring info. EMD Driver has retained his auto trans harness to get it to start and run. Since I have kids (and since I put a subaru through a deep freeze when I was a kid messing around in the garage) I HAVE to wire in a clutch safety switch. How would I accomplish that? Also, I have a pig-tail from a t-19 that seems to match up with the reverse switch on the zf5. Can I use that to get my reverse lights to work, How?

The trans swap gave me a chance to swap out my exhaust. I got a dynomax 3" system from a donor truck from a buddy. Man, I can't wait to drive this thing!

Found out my truck has a limited slip dif (don't know if they all do). Also, found out the drips on the driveway weren't oil but were anti-freeze washing oil off the bottom of the engine. I need to fix my block heater or take it out and put a freeze plug back in.

Next on the list - replace the IP and seal the bottom of the IP mount (leaks oil like a fountain), replace lower radiator hose (damaged from oil out of the IP mount), add another air-intake hose to other side of air filter assembly, install a pyrometer, and on, and on, and on....

 

[G. Mann]

The ZF trans has a different dog house that screws to floor boards and gives you extra room.... looks like you need to find one of those from a donor truck somewhere... [buy one from stealership??? naw!]

 

[dieselutheran2]

I have the trans tunnel that screws onto the floor from a zf5 truck. The floor clearance I'm talking about is just behind that tunnel all the way to the t-case u-joint. The u-joint on the t-case is a little less than .5" from the floor. seems pretty tight to me.

Maybe its time to get a body lift? HA!

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

Wiring. I just finished searching for wiring info. EMD Driver has retained his auto trans harness to get it to start and run. Since I have kids (and since I put a subaru through a deep freeze when I was a kid messing around in the garage) I HAVE to wire in a clutch safety switch. How would I accomplish that?

I did leave the MLPS connected to the E4OD harness, but I also installed a safety switch into the clutch pedal assembly. My 93 had the jumpered pigtail under the dash. Once I removed that jumper, the pigtail connected to the new switch.

I also have kids and wouldn't dream of having that kind of nightmare as a possibility. My son is 11 years old and cannot get the truck started, even with the seat all the way forward. I have to have the clutch pedal completely to the floor, for the starter to engage.

 

[dieselutheran2]

Does the '85 have this same jumpered connection? What color wires should I be looking for? If I remove the neutral safety switch from the underside of the truck, what do I have to do with the plug? Thanx for all the help and encouragement, guys!

 

[dieselutheran2]

I found the jumper that you mentioned. Almost too easy. The only thing left is connecting the hydraulic line from the master to slave on the clutch, putting the dash back together, and the seats back in.

Next is a replacement IP and lines (those are going in to fix an oil leak on the IP mount housing) and opening up the air filter canister for more airflow. I hope to be done by Monday night, that will give me a week to drive it around before I tow my new project up to Wyoming; a 1976 International Scout II. Rusty, but it looks like it will be fun!

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Sweet, good deal.

 

[dieselutheran2]

Last night at 1pm I forgot to post the question, how do I hook up the reverse light switch? Where can I find a pigtail? I'm headed to the local salvage yard, but if that doesn't work, I'm stuck with the local parts shops. I haven't found a pigtail on the net anywhere. Then, which wires do I cut in the neutral safety switch harness to hook up the wiring? Thanks for your help everybody. Hope to be driving soon!

 

[dieselutheran2]

Well, I was able to find a backup light harness at the salvage yard. It was from a t-19 but works just fine! Took the truck for a drive and found that my slave cylinder was leaking somehow. Bought a new slave cyl today, and instead of trying to bleed it top down, I followed the directions for a slave cylinder that doesn't have a bleed valve. I took the keeper off the rod, allowed the piston to go down all the way, then filled the cylinder with ATF (Dex/Merc is what the part store listed for clutch fluid), once it was filled to capacity, I hooked it to the line that still had some fluid in it, and once the throw-out arm compressed the rod, it pushed the excess fluid back up to the master cylinder (along with any air in the line between them). Now I can get it into reverse without grinding anything!

Next big hurdle is the emergency brake. The racheting pedal in won't hold, so I can't park in my parking space (too much incline, the truck rolls in gear)