slightly different zf5 swap question

[NO_SPRK]

hello all. long time no post. I have gone to the dark side of SD 7.3 PSD but my cousin has had a 87 f250 for awhile and the C6 finally **** the bed.

he previously got a zf5 from a f450 so the 4wd version with parking brake on the back. now that we need to do the swap my mind is very rusty on these things.

will I need a 4wd cross member? will the 2wd C6 unit work?

I seem to remember on my 4wd brick nose just flipping it over to the other side or moving it up or back a bit to different holes.

thanks in advance

 

[u2slow]

All I can say is for 94-95 era, the 2wd and 4wd crossmember look similar except for the dip on the driver side for where the front driveshaft is.

 

[BlindAmbition]

2WD cross member should be fine. 4x4 is shaped to allow front driveshaft to pass to the front axle.

 

[NO_SPRK]

2WD cross member should be fine. 4x4 is shaped to allow front driveshaft to pass to the front axle.

so I'm assuming the trans mounts are the same 2wd vs 4wd

 

[david85]

The centerline of the drivetrain will not change, so I see no reason you can't make the 2wd work on a 4wd. You might have to slide it back and drill new holes but that's not a big deal.

Are you actually converting to 4wd, or keeping it 2wd? If staying 2wd, you should be golden.

 

[BlindAmbition]

You'll have to utilize the parking brake in order to keep it 2wd. Just move the cross member back a little bit and shorten your driveshaft as necessary. Trans mounts are the same

 

[franklin2]

I did a 4x4 c6 to 4x4 zf swap from a 89 f250 to a 89 f250. The bottom c6 crossmember was exactly the same as the bottom zf crossmember. My 89 frame already had the extra set of holes set back 1 inch for the zf. The c6 used the front holes.

What it did not have was extra holes for the short upper crossmembers. The zf setup uses the same upper frame holes as the c6 setup. But the zf upper brackets are offset more so they line up with the original upper frame holes when the lower crossmember slides back. I had these zf upper brackets from the donor truck. But I thought if I didn't have the proper upper brackets, I probably could use the c6 brackets, stick them on temporarily and then reach around on top of the frame and mark at least one hole that would be in range. Then take the c6 upper bracket out and drill the marked hole and use at least one bolt to hold it in place. I am a believer in using these upper brackets, it keeps the frame straight up and down. I would try to keep them in place somehow.

 

[u2slow]

I've drilled the upper web of the frame from below on other trucks. A long punch and long drill bit helps with the angle.

 

[franklin2]

I've drilled the upper web of the frame from below on other trucks. A long punch and long drill bit helps with the angle.

I looked at doing that, but figured it would be pretty much impossible to drill at a angle from below and still be reasonably lined up. But anything is possible I guess. A 90 degree drill might work. Your arms might fall off though.

 

[NO_SPRK]

The centerline of the drivetrain will not change, so I see no reason you can't make the 2wd work on a 4wd. You might have to slide it back and drill new holes but that's not a big deal.

Are you actually converting to 4wd, or keeping it 2wd? If staying 2wd, you should be golden.

staying 2wd. only trans they found at pnp in 6+ months of looking. i warned them the ujoint from the f450 will probably be bigger so when the driveshaft is done it may need a conversion joint.

 

[u2slow]

The 1410/1350 conversion joint used to be a pricey item. GMB now makes an affordable one 240-1435.

If the driveshaft needs shortening, may be best to have a 1410 end yoke welded on instead.