Broken Fuel pickup

dakotajeep

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Thats sounds right for the vent tube.

I am glad you are repairing this. I decided to do this after two years of issues that ressembled gelling fuel. It actually was pieces of the shower head that made their way into the Fuel tank selector valve and made for some interestingly, unfortunately road side stops.....or break downs.....

Thad
 

maddenji

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Madden:
Both my senders are the same age and they are both bad, with open (infinite resistance) areas between F and E. This makes the gauge read above F. The potentiometer is a ceramic wafer with silver traces silkscreened on and utilizing a carbon resistor pad in 3 sections down the sides. There is a wiper attached to the float rod that is grounded. The float rod travels thru 90 degrees from bottom to top, E to F. I plan to replace this with a discrete potentiometer of proper magnitude and a 22 ohm fixed resistor. If anyone knows how this will hold up to immersion I'd like to know.
I know you don't know me, but I've seen the senders and pickup in these tanks. It is just too much of a coincidence that both senders failed at exactly the same time. Before I changed both senders, I would definitely check the wiring before I pulled any tanks for just the senders.
All your points are valid, but I'm saying that I wouldn't pull a tank until all other causes were eliminated.
Jim
 

jim x 3

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Madden:

You approach is a good one. Testing first is the way to do this.

My truck is new to me and the fuel gauge was inaccurate on either tank. In my case I have checked wiring from the 2 sender locations and all wiring and gauge are good. The senders probably failed at separate times but the PO didn't fix them. I don't know how long Chevyboy's senders have been bad (or even if the problem isn't elsewhere).

In addition, neither of my tanks will draw below 1/4 or so, so I have multiple reasons to repair. I'm doing the aft tank now (first), If successful with the sender repair, I'll do the front tank.

I am interested to know if anyone has experience with standard grade electronic potentiometers immersed in diesel fuel. Anyone out there with experience?

Regards,
 

franklin2

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No experience retro fitting a regular potentiometer. I have had lots of experience repairing the sending units. The type I have repaired are the wire-wound ones that have resistance wire wrapped around a curved insulated board, and then the brass wiper rubs against the windings. 99% of the time the brass wiper is broke off, or is bent getting ready to break.

I am not familiar with the unit you are describing. Do you know what's wrong with it? If the wiping portion is wore out, can you move the wiper over to a new un-used portion?

P.S. I just re-read your description of the carbon pads on the original unit, and really that is all a regular potentiometer has in it also, just carbon with a wiper on it. I am not sure how you are going to get a potentiometer to work out exactly though, since they are only available in certain values, and you really need the factory Ford values at the extremes of travel to get a accurate reading. I believe they make 100 ohm pots, but I don't know if that would get the gauge all the way over to full.
 
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fields_mj

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FWIW, I did my front tank this fall, and I could not do it without dropping the tank. I'd heard some say that it's possible, and others say that it wasn't. I could get the retainer ring off, but my fuel lines have some funky bends in them to get the pick up down to the absolute bottom of the tank, and there wasn't enough room between the tank and the bed to be able to fish them out of there. Maybe if I had taken the fuel lines off the cap, but I didn't want to disturb anything that I didn't have to for fear that I'd end up having to replace something that wasn't readily available. I needed the truck to run that evening. I ran the tank almost empty (1/4) and then drained most of the rest into a 5 gal bucket using a piece of 3/8 ID rubber hose. Used a suction gun to fill the line, then just siphoned off another 3 gal. That made it light enough for me to maneuver by myself without too much problem. I used a couple of 2x4 blocks to block up one end while I positioned the other end and got the bolts started. I'm going to have to do it again because the line that I put back on is too long and isn't sitting in the correct spot in the tank, and I still have to do the rear anyway. I didn't have an old pick up line to use as a reference. It took me about 3 hours including a trip down to the hardware store for some aluminum screen, and then to the auto parts store for the fuel line and some clamps. That was using a combination wrench and a ratchet. An impact would have made it a LOT easier. I'll have one before I tear into the rest of it. With an impact and the parts laying in the truck, I could have probably done it in an hour. Taking the bed off would be easier, but I have to do it all on my own in the drive way so that's probably not a good option for me.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
 

jim x 3

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1988 F-350 aft tank fuel pickup/sender

Left photo is my disassembled pickup/sender. Top is at the left. The "funnel" or "shower head" portion of the pickup is not present.


Right photo is a close-up of the ceramic pot board, size is 1/2" x 1 1/2". Note areas where the traces have been rubbed clean off.

The ceramic board snaps into place in the plastic cover (also containing the wiper and float arm axle), so repositioning it to move the wiper arc slightly without hitting the carbon resistor would be problematic.
 

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franklin2

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Left photo is my disassembled pickup/sender. Top is at the left. The "funnel" or "shower head" portion of the pickup is not present.


Right photo is a close-up of the ceramic pot board, size is 1/2" x 1 1/2". Note areas where the traces have been rubbed clean off.

The ceramic board snaps into place in the plastic cover (also containing the wiper and float arm axle), so repositioning it to move the wiper arc slightly without hitting the carbon resistor would be problematic.

They really only make these trucks to last a few years don't they? I guess they want you to take it to the recycle and go buy a new one. Problem is they made a deal with international who makes an engine to last, so it makes the rest of the truck look pretty bad.
 

fields_mj

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They really only make these trucks to last a few years don't they? I guess they want you to take it to the recycle and go buy a new one. Problem is they made a deal with international who makes an engine to last, so it makes the rest of the truck look pretty bad.

Ford isn't the only one. I spoke to an engineer at Cummins years ago and they had offered to warranty the 12 valve for 500K miles. Apparently Dodge didn't want the rest of their truck to look so bad either. That's the great thing about a good diesel though. Makes the rest of the truck worth fix'n
 

Popeye2347

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Here is what is probably a 'stupid' thought, but one worth asking anyway.........have you checked to see if you can purchase only the ceramic pot board? Some one had to make them, and it sure was not FoMoCo. Maybe a rebuilder, [sort of like a rebuilt starter]. Do call the Ford dealer as it may be a replacement item [probably a 'pretty penny' if they do though].


Left photo is my disassembled pickup/sender. Top is at the left. The "funnel" or "shower head" portion of the pickup is not present.


Right photo is a close-up of the ceramic pot board, size is 1/2" x 1 1/2". Note areas where the traces have been rubbed clean off.

The ceramic board snaps into place in the plastic cover (also containing the wiper and float arm axle), so repositioning it to move the wiper arc slightly without hitting the carbon resistor would be problematic.
 

jim x 3

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Pop:

Well, it appears that the entire sender/pickup assembly is still available aftermarket.

The local Ford dealer said that the pot isn't a replaceable part. And that the entire pickup/sender assembly part (for my 1988) is obsolete and no longer available from Ford.

Regards,
 

CJCJ

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Maybe you could bend the tabs on the wiper arm to ride just inside of the worn arc?
 

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