Still Strokin
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Ya
Brand New CDR Valve From Ford, Pictures And Part #'s Here
- Thread starter Still Strokin
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firehawk
Full Access Member
I bought one last year for mine. Went to ford's site and had no problem finding and ordering it. Want to say it was around $75.
It's only funny because I'm finding myself going down the same rabbit hole. Glad I really like these trucks... I may be living in mine by the time it gets finished.
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Not sure where you found info saying 350 and 350 springs are the same...they do appear the same however entirely different animals..
Otherwise there would not be an F250 or F350 right? I know my friggen 350 spring packs hardly move with my winter weight a 8" thick 3'x4' concrete block on the deck...and I mean barely even budge! That's all spring rate folks..
Now my F250 I can move it standing on the rear bumper rofl much softer spring set! I'll keep the softer spring set and have MORE flex for wheeling don't need spring rate for loads!
Yes there is a 2" vs 4" block for 250/350 as well.
CDR is available as many here have proven.
Otherwise there would not be an F250 or F350 right? I know my friggen 350 spring packs hardly move with my winter weight a 8" thick 3'x4' concrete block on the deck...and I mean barely even budge! That's all spring rate folks..
Now my F250 I can move it standing on the rear bumper rofl much softer spring set! I'll keep the softer spring set and have MORE flex for wheeling don't need spring rate for loads!
Yes there is a 2" vs 4" block for 250/350 as well.
CDR is available as many here have proven.
Still Strokin
Full Access Member
Google : difference between F250 and F350, and you'll see the idiots I'm talking about
Why should I google it when I'm a FORD fan and I am a member here for years as well as I actually KNOW the differences BUWA HA HA HA HA...
NO_SPRK
User & Abuser
Can you order online from this bob guy in Texas?
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Still Strokin
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I honestly don't care if you google it or not. You said you were unsure of where I found my info at, so I gave you my source .....
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Whether they need to be replaced is a contentious issue - had that discussion before. I say that they don't - there's really nothing to wear out, and the only time the CDR does anything is if you have a very high intake vacuum, ie plugged air filter.
I have a thread on here from some months ago ('cdr valve explained' IIRC) where I took one apart and looked at it. Very very simple.
I have also never seen a reference anywhere in either Ford or IH manuals about changing it, either as a routine service item or as corrective maintenance. Possibly it's in a service bulletin somewhere, if anyone knows where please let me know.
However, a number of people have reported decreased oil consumption after replacing the valve although I can't come up with any way it would effect oil consumption without other issues being there (ie plugged air filter).
I have a thread on here from some months ago ('cdr valve explained' IIRC) where I took one apart and looked at it. Very very simple.
I have also never seen a reference anywhere in either Ford or IH manuals about changing it, either as a routine service item or as corrective maintenance. Possibly it's in a service bulletin somewhere, if anyone knows where please let me know.
However, a number of people have reported decreased oil consumption after replacing the valve although I can't come up with any way it would effect oil consumption without other issues being there (ie plugged air filter).
Well I learned something. I thought it was just to condense the oil vapor and let it drip back down into the engine. Didn't realize there was any moving parts in it. Not really sure how you'd get much vacuum there? Plugged air cleaner I guess?
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Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
My CDR is causing excessive that makes the front seal leak. Sometimes it drips/pours out the engine. Disconnected the tube fro the CDR and no more leak. I need to pull it for inspection and cleaning, then maybe replacement.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
The only real function of the CDR valve is as a safety to keep it from running away on oil fumes. In theory with the crankcase connected directly to the intake, if you where to block the intake badly enough, the resulting vacuum would cause the oil to vaporize and get sucked up and the engine would run on oil fumes, possibly causing a runaway. The valve acts to close off the vent port if you get a high enough vacuum - I think I figured it to be about 4" of water? It's high enough you shouldn't really get that much vacuum in the intake except with a plugged air filter.
If you look at the design there's no evidence it regulate crankcase pressure in any normal way or condenses oil. It's vented to atmospheric pressure on the back side, so any regulation occurs based on relative intake vacuum, not crankcase pressure except that positive crankcase pressure has a small impact due to the diaphragm design. If anything it's going to result in a moderate positive crankcase pressure, not negative as in a gasser. Likewise, it's nothing but a can with 2 holes - if it was designed to condense or separate oil you'd have a much different design with baffles, likely a separate oil drain line and either a large volume or some sort of mesh or packing to give a large surface area for oil to condense on. In fact, the tube going to the valley pan protrudes into the can about 1/4", so there's any oil that does condense would just pool in the bottom and then it would have to run back down through the same tube blowby is flowing up - not a good design for oil separation.
If you look at the design there's no evidence it regulate crankcase pressure in any normal way or condenses oil. It's vented to atmospheric pressure on the back side, so any regulation occurs based on relative intake vacuum, not crankcase pressure except that positive crankcase pressure has a small impact due to the diaphragm design. If anything it's going to result in a moderate positive crankcase pressure, not negative as in a gasser. Likewise, it's nothing but a can with 2 holes - if it was designed to condense or separate oil you'd have a much different design with baffles, likely a separate oil drain line and either a large volume or some sort of mesh or packing to give a large surface area for oil to condense on. In fact, the tube going to the valley pan protrudes into the can about 1/4", so there's any oil that does condense would just pool in the bottom and then it would have to run back down through the same tube blowby is flowing up - not a good design for oil separation.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Blind Driver, sounds like you have a plugged CDR or hose - you're getting too much crankcase pressure and it's venting out the seals. I'd be curious why it's that badly clogged though.
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