brakes problem again

HankHill

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I need help with my brakes

over christmas time, I replaced my wheel cylinders along with shoes, star adjusters, springs and rear brake line, brake pedal was okay for like a day then started to go low again, I bled the brakes maybe 50 times ran like 10 quarts of fluid through lines, but I constantly have air coming out of my driver side wheel cylinder on rear axle, constantly constantly, no front calipers and not my passenger side wheel cylinder just the stupid driver side, I know because I made a self brake bleeder and I can see the air bubbles in the clear line, I got the cylinders from advance auto, went and bought a replacement driver cylinder from autozone, its in the teens and I'm waiting for it to be in the high twentys before I put the new one in, has anyone ever gotten a rotten one out of the package? and if one cylinder is bad would it make the pedal sink to the floor? the truck still stops but has hard time

master cylinder is also new
 

Knuckledragger

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Judging by everything you have done, The only culprits left are the steel and rubber brake lines. Maybe one is cracked?

If the master cylinder leaks at the power booster unit, it will not show wet.
 

HankHill

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all steel brake line replaced, if there was a crack I would deffinately know, truck is a daily driver and I'm in stop and go mostly, no loss in fluid that i can tell from the reservoir, the fluid compresses to such a high psi it would squirt all over

my rabs is bypassed so thats not a culprit

and like I mentioned when I crack the bleeders the only wheel that has air coming out is that one wheel cylinder on the driver side, calipers and passenger wheel cylinder don't have any air, driver side always does

thats why I'm wondering if my wheel cylinder is broke out the box
 

mattplumber

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Maybe a stupid question here, but have you just cracked the bleeder and let it gravity bleed? I've been able to bleed clutch/brakes on every vehicle i've owned, but for some reason these fords just blled better with the gravity method.
I sure hate it for you, your truck has pretty low miles, but you sure seem to have lots of issues with it..................I know the feeling.
 

HankHill

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havent tried gravity bleeding it to be honest, just pumping the pedal while I position my bottle above the bleeder on a stool and making sure to top off the rezervoir every 5 or so pumps.

and yes low miles doesnt always mean problem free, this truck has been a headache ever since I got it almost a year ago, sometimes I wish I just did all the work my 6.0 stroke needed and kept that for another 300k miles.. but all in all it gets me from point A to B so what can I say lol
 

gatorman21218

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Did you flare the steel line yourself or did you buy the prefab ones? either way check the flare on the lines. I'm thinking maybe there is a bad flare in there somewhere (most likely at the wheel cylinder) and its causing an air leak.

and x2 on gravity bleeding. Thats how I bleed my truck
 

HankHill

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I bought pre flared line,

so to gravity bleed how exactly do I do that
 

gatorman21218

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what i did was to open the cap on the MC, then put a piece of tubing over the bleeder and run it into a bottle or some suitable container, and crack open the bleeder just enough to have fluid flow out. Just let it run til no air is showing and move to the next one. I went around the truck a few time until all the air was out. Just remember to keep the MC topped off.
 

riphip

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Same way I do mine. Gravity is easiest. You just have to wait.

Rick
 

HankHill

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You have to position the bottle beneath the bleeder right for this to work right? How long does it take
 

sassyrel

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You have to position the bottle beneath the bleeder right for this to work right? How long does it take

depends on temp,,--and your patience level!!!:rotflmao id still look at the steel line as mentioned--sometimes when they flare them--the lines will have a crack in them--thats why i flare all my own,,out of bulk line..and yes--you could have a bad rb cyl right out of the box...new, or rb,,dont mean good...been there also--
 

gatorman21218

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as long as the bottle is below the bleeder it should be fine. And not to be smart but the time it takes all depends on how muck air is in the system. I suppose you dont have to use a tube, but it makes seeing the air bubbles a lot easier. And not to mention the big puddle of brake fluid in your driveway

And there doesnt have to be a crack in the line, just an uneven flare or a burr at the end can prevent it from sealing right. And yes new doesnt mean anything. I had a reman hydrobooster fail right out of the box.
 

gatorman21218

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as long as the bottle is below the bleeder it should be fine. And not to be smart but the time it takes all depends on how muck air is in the system. I suppose you dont have to use a tube, but it makes seeing the air bubbles a lot easier. And not to mention the big puddle of brake fluid in your driveway

And there doesnt have to be a crack in the line, just an uneven flare or a burr at the end can prevent it from sealing right. And yes new doesnt mean anything. I had a reman hydrobooster fail right out of the box.
 

Knuckledragger

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While you are at it, position the truck a little nose down and left side up, to help all the air to get to the desired place - out. If you tap on the steel lines before (or even during) bleeding you will shake loose tiny air bubbles. Every dang one will make the pedal mushy.
 

HankHill

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hey guys I just walked in, so I pulled off the drum and took a look inside, theres no brake fluid in or around the wheel cylinder seals, I' wondering if its not defective, I put teflon around the bleeder threads and bled the rear cylinders I didnt do the gravity way though, but pedal is a little bit better now, still can see the air bubbles while bleeding in the clear tube, I think I'll go buy new line again and replace it to that wheel cylinder
 

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