Brake Job Questions

Waystro

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I want verify that the copper washers are for the connection to the brake hose on between the caliper and brake hose(bottom) and between bolt and brake hose top. Also see the piston in the pic. That's what happens when drop it? I'm assuming I need to replace it but it's a shot in the dark to see if any of you that's to badly damaged. Lastly any one have a picture of the z-thingy (best way I can describe it) spring fits on the caliper. Both of my old ones where not there. Just want to make sure I'm putting it on right thank you.
Yep those washer look like the ones for the Brake hose.
Did you buy New ones?
 

skeeter72

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Came withe the new caliper, also came with the new brake hose, however no bolt to connect the two I'm hoping the ones on the truck are not bad and just need to be cleaned up.
 

Bashby

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I dont think ive ever needed to replace a banjo bolt, im sure yours is fine. I was told years ago not to use the new copper washers or tbey will leak, and i have had several that gave me fits, but never with used ones. If you use the new o es, keep track of the old ones just in case.
 

Waystro

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I dont think ive ever needed to replace a banjo bolt, im sure yours is fine. I was told years ago not to use the new copper washers or tbey will leak, and i have had several that gave me fits, but never with used ones. If you use the new o es, keep track of the old ones just in case.

hmm never heard heard that before. Bolts should still be good.
 

skeeter72

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So this happened today
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Screwing the bleeder back in on the passenger side rear and a turn of the wrench and that happened. So what do I have to do now and what do I have to replace now to get my brakes back. Last question is what is the name of the tool to get these screws out
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79jasper

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You need to replace those wheel cylinders.
And those "screws," thems normal bolts. Use a socket lol

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skeeter72

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As I smack my head. Thank you for that. Sometime you can't see the forest through the trees
 
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BDCarrillo

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The bleeder screw is part of the cylinder. Requires total disassembly of drum brakes to replace.

FYI 94 uses the 1-1/16" cylinders... different sized lines and connectors too. I picked up 1" ones on accident today, which woulda worked on my 92.

The "screws" are what holds in the floating axle... don't need to remove them on a sterling rear end when doing brake work. The drums are a pain to remove... BFH, penetrating oil, and an air hammer. Make sure you wind the adjuster gears DOWN, so handle of a screwdriver UP. May need a spoon to hold the adjuster arm down.
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/Ford_F-250_brake_shoes_1.html
 
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skeeter72

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Thank you all for all the help. This has been fun wrong parts, breaking tools, breaking parts, cold weather, and no time. An absolute blast. Everything is on and has been bleed. Brakes are still mushy, I'm going to adjust the drums and see if that, helps, if not I'll do another bleed (rushed last night it was really late).
 

79jasper

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In the other thread, he said the truck won't move now.
Me thinks something in the brakes is locked up. Probably a bad rubber line somewheres.

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