Bigger IP/Injector help

Suddenly

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So my IP is on the way out and I’m looking at going bigger. I’m looking at the R&D 90cc IP and injectors, however I’m curious about head studs being a requirement.

I won’t be able to pull my engine anytime soon so headstuds are out of the question for the time being. Is the reason for them being required because of the extra boost the turbo will be making? Will I be safe if I just keep an eye on the boost numbers?

My truck is intercooled and has water/****(although I’ve never used it) factory turbo if this makes any difference.
 

Thewespaul

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Having a flat fueling curve has a lot to do with peak cylinder pressure and popping head gaskets, building a pump to put out fuel where there’s air to use it is what keeps your engine together. I’m running a 130 pump on a stock engine out here in the Texas heat, you’ll be fine with a 90.
 

Suddenly

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Thanks for the info guys much appreciated.

While I’m here might as well ask another unrelated question. I hear all sorts of numbers with stock fueling and boost, I seem to max at 7 psi. I’ve read about wiring the wastegate shut but never seen a picture, as well as capping off the wastegate hose? Anyone care to explain these things? Thanks
 

IDIBRONCO

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Before you get carried away with other modifications, I say to install the new pump and injectors, get it properly timed and then see how much boost it makes. 7PSI seems a little on the low side and new, upgraded fuel components can give you more boost. The most that I've seen on a truck with a stock, unmodified turbo system was 14PSI empty with an ATS 093. Most of the 093s and second gen Banks Sidewinders would make between 10 and 12 PSI empty from what I've seen. Pulling may have had higher boost numbers, but I always drove them empty. That's getting pretty close to the boost limits that you want to use with the stock head bolts.
 

Suddenly

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The reason I ask about the wastegate is because the turbo was rebuilt by the previous owner and I suspect it wasn’t set properly. I see 7psi even when pulling 7500lbs uphill. It seems it has a threaded rod on it, do I lengthen the rod or shorten it to increase max boost? I guess it could be a fuel issue? I still need to test the lift pump as well. My truck has 147000km and I believe has original IP and injectors which is less than 100k miles.

the reason I suspect the IP or injectors is because I get misfires and lots of white smoke if I rev it in neutral. As well as the truck occasionally sputters if I give it light gas from a stop.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Maybe you should try advancing the IP timing by moving it slightly toward the passenger's side. If your timing is retarded, this could also cause low boost numbers. If your timing is off, or if your fuel system is questionable, then it probably doesn't matter how you drive it, you'll never see any difference in boost. I'm not trying to talk you out of improving your truck, I'm just trying to get you to try some free things first. It may make a world of difference in the way your truck runs. Just for the record, I've only modded a wastegate once and it was 20 or so years ago. I really can't help much on that part.
 

Suddenly

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Maybe you should try advancing the IP timing by moving it slightly toward the passenger's side. If your timing is retarded, this could also cause low boost numbers. If your timing is off, or if your fuel system is questionable, then it probably doesn't matter how you drive it, you'll never see any difference in boost. I'm not trying to talk you out of improving your truck, I'm just trying to get you to try some free things first. It may make a world of difference in the way your truck runs. Just for the record, I've only modded a wastegate once and it was 20 or so years ago. I really can't help much on that part.
I’m all about free stuff. I will try what you suggested. I’ve been trying to find someone to time it that lives near me. If someone knows someone in the Edmonton Alberta area hook me up. I’ll give timing a try when I have time.
 

aggiediesel01

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I seem to remember that the IDIT wastegate was tuned to open around 7-8 psi from the factory so maybe no one has ever adjusted your rod.

This photo and the following few in my album will show you what needs to be done to make the actuator rod adjustable if it's not already done on yours. You shorten the rod to increase its clamping load on the wastgate, this in turn requires more boost to open the wastegate. I seem to remember that ATS recommended 10-12 turns on the rod to increase it to 12psi from the factory setting default but I could be way off on that since it's been a long time since I adjusted one for me as well.

https://www.oilburners.net/media/img_0804.739/

If your boost goes up around 15psi and you haven't gotten studs yet, you might first consider checking/re-torquing your existing head bolts. It's not a common practice but these bolts are not Torque to Yield so they are reusable and retorquable. Several folks on here have found loose head bolts when taking engines apart and whatnot and several have retorqued their heads trying to fix various other issues. Might be something for you to consider in the meantime.
 
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Suddenly

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I seem to remember that the IDIT wastegate was tuned to open around 7-8 psi from the factory so maybe no one has ever adjusted your rod.

This photo and the following few in my album will show you what needs to be done to make the actuator rod adjustable if it's not already done on yours. You shorten the rod to increase its clamping load on the wastgate, this in turn requires more boost to open the wastegate. I seem to remember that ATS recommended 10-12 turns on the rod to increase it to 12psi from the factory setting default but I could be way off on that since it's been a long time since I adjusted one for me as well.

https://www.oilburners.net/media/img_0804.739/

If your boost goes up around 15psi and you haven't gotten studs yet, you might first consider checking/re-torquing your existing head bolts. It's not a common practice but these bolts are not Torque to Yield so they are reusable and retorquable. Several folks on here have found loose head bolts when taking engines apart and whatnot and several have retorqued their heads trying to fix various other issues. Might be something for you to consider in the meantime.

thanks for this info, I looked over the album, what is the purpose of drilling the hole in the rod?
 

aggiediesel01

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The rod is staked in two spots that crimp the threads. It’s not possible to spin the adjustment until they are drilled out.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Another thing that comes to mind is that while you're adjusting the wastegate rod, you want to hole the end that goes into the vacuum pod (?) still. If it moves, it can tear the diaphram inside there. Sorry for my completely non-technical terms here. Maybe the description isn't correct. Maybe the info isn't correct either. I can't remember why it seems like I've heard it before.
 

Suddenly

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Thanks a ton guys, looks like I’ve got a lot of things to test before I buy a new IP and injectors. Will update as I test things next weekend.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I always recommend the cheaper/easier things to try before the more expensive ones. That way, if you can get by for a while, you will have more opportunity to save up some money for the bigger purchases.
 
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