Big problem...popped the block heater

[Diesel JD]

Hey guys,
I thought I had blown up the 86 this afternoon but it may live yet. I was heaving coolant loss and it was starting to get hot so I was wondering what the hell was going on. I started running the heater and it was ice cold so I figured it must be running low on coolant and the gauge is just reading hot air in the cylinder head. By now I'm also smelling coolant. Anyway, I decide I'd better not push my luck cause the gauge is getting hotter and hotter. I see where the coolant has POURED out on the passenger side, so I'm thinking cracked block or blown head gasket. Anyway I also remembered Gary's experience with an overheat caused by a bad freeze plug, and I see the block heater/plug has been pushed out and is down there hanging by the cord. I know this wasn't good for it but I think I didn't really get her that hot due to catching it early and because it was so cold here. So what does everyone think? Just replace the block heater and check to make sure the block didn't crack in that area, maybe check the other freeze plugs? Any opinions on if I should replace the block heater or just put a freeze plug there? Also, I recall from Gary's incident that the freeze plugs need to be factory and supposedly they should be installed with the Ford tool? Any ideas what could have caused it to pop? It seems obvious it froze but it was only in the 20s here and I have been using CAT ELC in there, so I don't know why it would freeze unless someone topped the system off with water without my knowledge or permission unless CAT had a bad batch of ELC or something of that nature.

 

[RLDSL]

If your coolant levels were up to *****, then your rad cap may have failed and you may have had an overpressure situation. Having teh block heater walk out is not a easy thing , that sucker is clamped in

 

[dyoung14]

I had the same thing happen on my origanal engine, the block heater blew out, mine was ate up from all the years it had been in the engine the old rubber just finally gave up, so i drove a rubber freeze plug in its place 4 gallons of antifreeze and 3 gallons of water later i was back to rolling till the engine blew a few months later

 

[icanfixall]

A 1 1/2 inch cup type freeze plug fits in the block heater location fine but... You wont have a block heater any longer. As for testing the other plugs... Nope... The only way to test them is drill a hole in them... thread that holl and then try to remove them.... If they come out easily then they were near failure... If they are hard to remove then they were fine.... I know this sounds silly but its the only way to know for sure. Now all the oem plugs are stainless steel and yes... They require the special tool part number 303D045 to install. That tool costs around $150.00 too... I have only found one of them on ebay and I let it get by and didn't bid.... These factory freeze plugs are not the cup type. They are concave and the center needs to be pressed in to expand them to fit. The factory used a sealant that is no longer available too so use something like hylomar or permatex avaition cement on the plug or I gaurtee it will l Mine did the second time I went thru this mess and I even sealed the block and pressureized it to 35 lbs. Used Snoop Leak Detecter on all 7 plugs... No leaks... then several months later found severl weapers... So motor was pulled and all plugs replaced but sealed this time.... No more seapage either. I don't think you cracked the block. I would just install another block heater unless you really don't need it where you are....

 

[Diesel JD]

Hmm, now the Rad cap failing is an interesting possibility. I would have assumed that if that happened you'd have little or no pressure in the cooling system, but instead you say it could overpressurize the block? I think I'll just get another block heater, because it sounds like the OEM freeze plugs are the right solution and they are just too much of a hassle. Any idea what heater to get or what to stay away from. Whatever happened, it's obvious that block heater just got blown right out. I guess I should seal it with permatex like you use on the water pump and call it good? I'm really hoping all I'm out is the coolant and the block heater.

 

[RLDSL]

Hmm, now the Rad cap failing is an interesting possibility. I would have assumed that if that happened you'd have little or no pressure in the cooling system, but instead you say it could overpressurize the block? I think I'll just get another block heater, because it sounds like the OEM freeze plugs are the right solution and they are just too much of a hassle. Any idea what heater to get or what to stay away from. Whatever happened, it's obvious that block heater just got blown right out. I guess I should seal it with permatex like you use on the water pump and call it good? I'm really hoping all I'm out is the coolant and the block heater.

A little RTV or Hylomar on the new block heater will seal it. Napa or LMC have heaters, it's a pretty generic critter, there are only about two companies that make the things.

 

[Diesel JD]

The mech I'm working with suggests I just use a freeze plug and ditch the block heater, he says they are prone to leaks and popping out. He uses aviation permatex as the sealer. Hylomar would probably be better but hey we don't have access to it. I might roll the dice with another block heater. I wish I knew what causes this so it doesn't happen again, cause it is really no fun trying to deal with.

 

[The Warden]

FWIW I had some problems with my block heater...I found that it was leaking around the edges and at the bolt. Since I have an early block, I ditched it in favor of a rubber plug...which I know isn't really the "proper" answer, but I wasn't in a position to properly install an OEM freeze plug. It's been working okay for 6 years now, but next time I have a need to drain the coolant, I'll probably throw another block heater in place and never wire it up...unless there's a better alternative out there?

 

[Diesel JD]

Mine's in the "good" serial number range. I rarely use the block heater but in a way it would be nice to still have that option. Still undecided till I get to the store, I guess.

 

[BioFarmer93]

JD- Never eliminate options buddy, -block heater

 

[idi traveler]

I through a magnetic oil pan heater on mine last winter but I have yet to use it. I figured the heat rising from the hot oil should help. I've got to get under there and and see if there is a block heater and what it will take to get it going.

 

[typ4]

Block heaters are not prone to leaks. Follow the instructions to the letter installing the new one, some use no sealer just some soap on the oring. I have never had one 'pop' out.

Oh, aviation permatex is just fine.

 

[flareside_thun]

Aviation permatex is the chit......I always use it on freezeplugs.

 

[Exekiel69]

The block heater I have on the IDI has a little bar that goes inside the block and a SS bolt that goes through the block heater which is larger than the hole on the block. All I did was press it IN and tighten it until I saw the O ring squeeze in the hole. I do remember using permatex but I didn't know it was a requirement it was meant to be a precaution.

 

[Agnem]

The head would crack before the block.....