Banks Sidewinder on an Interim 7.3 IDI

[Vintage465]

Hi,
I have my eye on a 7.3 IDI Turbo. It's rebuilt with 40,000 miles. Thinking if I get it I will want to use my very fresh Banks Sidewinder that is on my current not so fresh 7.3 non turbo IDI. Should be no problem fitting up the Banks to the factory turbo IDI..................right?

Thanks,
V465

 

[nostrokes]

You will have to swap it all over. Everything associated with the banks will have to be swapped in, y pipe, down tube ect..

Is there anything wrong with the factory turbo? If not I'd leave it alone, I believe the factory setup is actually better than the banks, but I could be wrong Wes would be the one to ask..

 

[Vintage465]

You will have to swap it all over. Everything associated with the banks will have to be swapped in, y pipe, down tube ect..

Is there anything wrong with the factory turbo? If not I'd leave it alone, I believe the factory setup is actually better than the banks, but I could be wrong Wes would be the one to ask..

Well, Hopefully Wes will chime in.
I just have complete history on the Banks unit I have. I bought it new and installed it. I've also understood the Banks make more go power than an ATS as an after market so I'd assume that it'd make more than an ATS installed as a factory unit.

Thanks

 

[Kevo1288]

Factory kit is easier to upgrade from there...

 

[Thewespaul]

Thats pretty much my standpoint, the sidewinder might be marginally better out of the box than the factory turbo setup, but theres a ton of support for the factory turbo platform to make well over what the sidewinder can make.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

As a particular turbo type, stock for stock (meaning as installed), the latest Banks Sidewinders seemed to be the most powerful turbo to me. They seemed to make more boost, again as a type of turbo. As an individual unit, the highest boost numbers that I saw came from an ATS093. That was 14PSI in 4th gear, 3000 RPMs, empty. The Sidewinders seemed to usually make 11-12 PSI while the rest usually made about 10 PSI. This is what I saw while test driving trucks with new engines. As for modifying the set up, I'll let the others take over from here.

 

[Macrobb]

I think the Banks is a "tighter" setup - it spools faster; wastegate unhooked with a maxed out stock pump, you can max out the 15 psi Banks boost gauge easily enough.
They are good for no more than 250 RWHP; it just can't push any more air through it than that. With a stock pump, you won't likely get more than 200-225, so it'll be just fine - really snappy.

On the other hand, the factory turbo is slightly larger and can push more air. You can do a 3" DP mod, add a Wicked Wheel and that should be able to push a bit more than the 250. I managed to get 250 out of one with no mods, but I was running my RD2-110 pump at the time which means I was totally air-limited not fuel-limited.

Another thing is design:
1. Banks design of up-pipe/crossover is better - no split-pipe leaks.
2. Banks turbo position is better - more clearance for glow plugs on #5 and #7 cyl.
3. Factory turbo intake box is better - square filters are economical, easy to replace and available. The K&N filters on the Banks setup are K&N style... they are barely adequate filtering wise and load up quickly.
4. Factory CDR positioning is better - pulling from the valve cover(with a shield) should pull less oil than from the front cover where droplets are slung off the gears and pulled through the hose. Banks also has the CDR upside down, so any oil getting into it won't drain back down into the oil pan.
5. Factory turbo has a crushed downpipe which sucks for effeciency; banks uses a 2-3/4" tube that doesn't fit a 2.5 or 3" pipe.
6. Banks comes with EGT probe location in the up-pipe; Factory turbo requires you to install one yourself somewhere.
7. Turbo oil drain on the Banks is this flexible metal hose which is really hard to get into place/seal. Can be replaced/modded, which is a good idea if you install the kit with the engine in the truck. Factory kit uses a cast piece bolting to the intake CDR hole/bolts to keep it from moving around.

That's pretty much it - I've got a Sidewinder on my '92 and a Factory kit with WW2 on my '93. Both trucks are identical, pretty much - same engine,trans,transfer case, gearing, cab etc.
They both do just fine.

 

[Vintage465]

Factory kit is easier to upgrade from there...

I won't be upgrading anything. I just use this truck as my ranch truck to haul fire wood, go to the dump, haul lumber etc. Since I have them both out and un-assembled, I'll be able to pick either one to install. I'm thinking that the Factory unit is going to have many more miles on it than the Banks unit. The engine was rebuilt and has 40,000 miles...........not likely the the turbo was.

 

[Macrobb]

I won't be upgrading anything. I just use this truck as my ranch truck to haul fire wood, go to the dump, haul lumber etc. Since I have them both out and un-assembled, I'll be able to pick either one to install. I'm thinking that the Factory unit is going to have many more miles on it than the Banks unit. The engine was rebuilt and has 40,000 miles...........not likely the the turbo was.

Check for side/end play of both. Miles doesn't matter as much as bearing wear.

 

[Vintage465]

Thanks for all the input. Looking forward to getting Betsy back on the road.

 

[Vintage465]

Check for side/end play of both. Miles doesn't matter as much as bearing wear.

I'll take a gander at the bearing wear on the Factory Turbo. The Banks unit was installed in 2013 and run 'til 2017. Then got coolant in one of the cylinders. Not much time or miles on the Banks unit.

 

[Macrobb]

I'll take a gander at the bearing wear on the Factory Turbo. The Banks unit was installed in 2013 and run 'til 2017. Then got coolant in one of the cylinders. Not much time or miles on the Banks unit.

I'd still check both. Not hard to just reach in and spin it. It should spin freely and you shouldn't be able to push the compressor sideways such that it scrapes the housing. As long as it doesn't scrape and there isn't noticable in/out play, it should be fine.

 

[Kevo1288]

Sounds like you've determined going with the banks unit...

 

[Vintage465]

Sounds like you've determined going with the banks unit...

Yes, you're right. My original question in the post was to see if the Banks unit will go on a Factory Turbo IDI with out issue. If I didn't have the Banks, that factory turbo would be a very welcome sight. I really appreciate all the help provided here. Reading all the feed back on this thread, seems like it's a wash and I have experience and history with the Banks Unit and it is really fresh.

 

[Macrobb]

The only thing you might do differently is how you hook up the oil sender. The banks system I have pulls from the oil port on the driver's side next to the oil cooler; the factory turbo setups use the oil pressure sender port behind the intake manifold at the very rear of the motor... which is honestly not a bad place to get it from(if not, you'll obviously need a plug).