Ball joint's...

[ManicMike]

Ball joint's... (help needed!!!!)

Looking for some help here. My truck has the Dana 50 TTB front end, and it's time for some suspension work. I've heard good thing's about MOOG, so I think i'm going to go with them.

My question is how hard is the actual removal/install? I've figured a shop would charge about $500 for labor.. that's a big chunk of change, especially if I can do it myself.

So I'm looking for any tip's, trick's, write-ups, personal experience, anything that'd lead me to actually do this myself instead of a shop dealing with my truck

-Mike

EDIT: Anyone willing to help out a fellow IDI'er? I need to get these b-joint's done but can not do them myself, I'm willing to travel and give some money for help. Please let me know!

 

[mbass777]

rent a ball joiint presss from an auto parts store and you wont have a problem and will save tons of money and learn a new trick at the same time

 

[rhkcommander]

i've heard mixed things about moog, but looks like the stuff for our trucks are decent. They have to be pressed in too, I've heard the moogs go in harder than some other brands.

I'll be picking mine up monday probably in town, I'll take pics as I go.

 

[ghunt]

I'm doing mine probably this friday along with front axle u joints...whee!

Yeah shop here quoted me $260 to do one side...I've got $200 in parts to do both sides, all ball joints AND u joints

 

[nsjames]

I'm doing mine probably this friday along with front axle u joints...whee!

Yeah shop here quoted me $260 to do one side...I've got $200 in parts to do both sides, all ball joints AND u joints

The balljointpress makes u joints easy as well.

Looking for some help here. My truck has the Dana 50 TTB front end, and it's time for some suspension work. I've heard good thing's about MOOG, so I think i'm going to go with them.

My question is how hard is the actual removal/install? I've figured a shop would charge about $500 for labor.. that's a big chunk of change, especially if I can do it myself.

So I'm looking for any tip's, trick's, write-ups, personal experience, anything that'd lead me to actually do this myself instead of a shop dealing with my truck

-Mike

Do you have a torch? Even your basic MAPP gas jobby at the home depot will make this go easier. Pre load the balljoint with the press. Then try rapping the side of the knuckle with a steel hammer, watch out for the rebound, but you need a good sharp hit. Hopefully the joint pops right out, otherwise, heat the knuckle with the torch for a bit and hit it again with the hammer. Alternate heat/hammer and tightening the press until it pops out. Once it pops the press will remove it easily.

Be careful not to bend the balljoint press, it's pretty easy to apply a massive amount of pressure with the big screw. Be prepared to spend some time, I've had balljoints take hours to get out without destroying the knuckle, and then you go to the other side and it pops right out. There's not really any rhyme or reason, just brute force.

 

[cardana24]

This guy is doing the same thing right now http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47069

I posted a link in this^ thread to my thread when I was doing the same thing.

 

[subway]

so how rusty is your truck. i did ball joints in my rust free 2x4 ranger in about 3hrs for both sides, then i have spent 12 hrs on one side of my old 78 bronco. like mentioned it depends on how bad they are in there and a ball joint press is a must.

i have also used a thin wheel cutting disk in a angle grinder to get stubbern c-clips and nuts off. better than wrestling with them for hours.

i would do the ujoints while you are in there. no reason to skimp there for the few extra buxs after all the work of getting there.

i would also rent a slide hammer with a spindle adapter for pulling the spindle out of the knuckle. this can be another major sticking point on the job that with the right tools is no problem. sometimes they come out ok, other times they hold on for dear life.

there have been a couple of write ups as they go of people who have done this, i will have to see if i can find them.

 

[ManicMike]

so how rusty is your truck. i did ball joints in my rust free 2x4 ranger in about 3hrs for both sides, then i have spent 12 hrs on one side of my old 78 bronco. like mentioned it depends on how bad they are in there and a ball joint press is a must.

i have also used a thin wheel cutting disk in a angle grinder to get stubbern c-clips and nuts off. better than wrestling with them for hours.

i would do the ujoints while you are in there. no reason to skimp there for the few extra buxs after all the work of getting there.

i would also rent a slide hammer with a spindle adapter for pulling the spindle out of the knuckle. this can be another major sticking point on the job that with the right tools is no problem. sometimes they come out ok, other times they hold on for dear life.

there have been a couple of write ups as they go of people who have done this, i will have to see if i can find them.

I'd say pretty decent, the front clip is rusting bad at the bottom of the fender's by the door's. I'd say this truck is still on the original 19 year old b-joint's.

Thank's cardana24 for the link! I'll be doing some reading tonight.

Jred, if you do find anything please post it.

-Mike

 

[subway]

cardana24 was the most recent one i could think of and he linked to the other thread like mentioned
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=43490&highlight=ball+joint+replacement
to get the link directly in here.
i will have to look, i think there are several others

 

[romulus]

i just did all 4 ball joints and 4 rod ends last weekend. i rented the press tool from oreilly. it works fine removing the joints and installing the upper joints..... but not so good on the lowers, the sleeves that come with it do not have the correct diameter to install the lowers unless you press on the center portion and not the flange as intended. seems like it might damage the joint internals if you press anywhere else.

fortunately i have a lathe and a mill and was able to machine a drift to install the lowers. i told them the story at oreilly and got deer in the headlights look followed by crickets chirping. i think all the parts store experts have been layed off out here in norcal and replaced by cash register experts.

the passenger side lower nut was hell to get out. took me near two hours to break that SOB loose, it brought most of the threads with it, surprised it actually came out upon inspecting the threads. i used a torch and lots of kano pen oil, and . i didn't think a breakover bar with a cheater pipe would bend that far without breaking. learn something new every time i work on that truck.

one more thing, you'll work up quite a sweat rotating that press if you don't have an impact driver. i tried one with a wrench just to see how it was, i put about 5 turns on it, and went back to the impact.

it was fun though. i love fixing my old ford.

 

[nsjames]

If you can't find the right adapter in the kit, try substituting an appropriately sized socket. It will not lock in place properly, so be careful, but it will work if you pay attention to get the socket on straight.

 

[War Wagon]

I would go w/ Spicer over Moog, but that's me.

 

[Kevin 007]

X2 for the slide hammer for the spindle. Or soak it in oil and let it sit, you may be able to get it off with a chisel and hammer.
Soak ball joints to. They can be a bear to get moving.

You can also remove the knuckles and take it to a shop and have them press out the old joints and press new ones in. Shouldn't take em more than an hour. $80 or so. saves the nerves a bit...

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I would go w/ Spicer over Moog, but that's me.

whys that?

 

[monkeyboi]

Get 2 hammers and smack both sides of knuckle at same time. My dad watched me trying to get a ball joint out of my k10 and then started laughing. I had the press as tight as I could get it after soaking it for 2 days with everything I could get my hands on and was hitting knuckle with a 2 or 3 pound drilling hammer and nothing was happening. He picked up another hammer and hit both sides at the same time and the thing popped right out. I'm sure he said something like "See, you don't know everything yet boy." Thank God for dads.