Ball joint replacement blues

[Ryan Cowper]

1989 f250 idi 4x4

I started replacing my ball joints today and I just realized that I need an axle spindle nut socket. Can anyone explain to me which socket I need to get? Autozone said they have 6 point and 12 point spindle nut socket sets that "should work". I can't find any information as to what exact tool I need. The parts store is almost 40 minutes away and I'd HATE to have to bounce back and forth trying to get the right socket.

Also, I haven't been able to find a good video or write up on ball joint replacement for my truck and I've just been winging it up to this point. If anyone knows of a good link that might help me get through this project a little more smoothly, I'd really appreciate it.

Here's a picture of my spindle nut...

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[DaveBen]

You need a socket that has 4 fingers that match to the 4 gaps in the able nut. I had one but it went away with my truck, that was sold.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

4 fingers that match to the 4 gaps in the able nut

Is the able nut the nut that's in front? It looks like there's a series of odd shaped washers or nuts behind the nut in the foreground of my picture.

 

[franklin2]

The special socket you need depends on what front axle you have. If you have the dana 44 ttb hd, you need the smaller socket. If you happen to have the dana 50, you need the larger socket. If your truck is original, you can look on the sticker on the door jamb on the driver's side. If your FAWR is around 3800 lbs, you have the dana 44hd axle. If your FAWR is around 4400lbs, you have the dana 50 axle.

Here's a video that may help. It's for a Jeep, but is very similiar to the Ford front axles. The older Fords had the multiple piece spanner nut retaining system. Your newer truck may have the one piece nut that has the "clicker" in it that locks it. Also, his brake caliper is mounted differently so ignore that part, you probably have the two caliper retainers with the rubber molded inbetween. Inspect these carefully, if they are falling apart the stores have new ones.

When you get to the dust shield, it will look a little different than the video but the concept is the same, and that short spindle piece comes off on your truck just like it does in the video.

Speaking of special tools, I am assuming you have a balljoint press to change the balljoints? If not, the cheapest place to get one is Harbor Freight.

Here's the video

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[franklin2]

P.S. Looking at your avatar, it looks like you have a extended cab truck. If that is true, then you will have the dana 50 axle.

This looks like the socket you need.

https://torqueking.com/product/8810...ut-socket-for-dana-50ifs-dana-60-front-axles/

 

[Ryan Cowper]

Ok, I finally found the correct socket at O'Reilly's. Here's a picture of the packaging/part # just in case anyone needs to know in the future.

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[Ryan Cowper]

On with the next thing. So... I ended up having one of my wheel bearings fall out of the hub while I was putting the darn thing back on the spindle. Of course the bearings fell in the dirt. Now... I think to myself... maybe that's a sign to clean this old hub, replace the seals and repack the bearings. I've never done this before!

First question - How do I go about cleaning the old grease out of the hub and bearings?

 

[franklin2]

Take a paper towel, wrap it around a couple of your fingers, and dig the majority of the grease out of the hub. Do the same with the bearings to get most of the grease off, and then get some cheap store brand brake cleaner cans and spray the bearings off while you spin them lightly with your fingers. Make sure you get new seals for the back of the brake rotors.

When you put new grease on the bearings, make sure you get wheel bearing grease, not the thinner grease from your gun that you grease the chassis with. The wheel bearing grease is a lot thicker.

Take your clean hands, dip them down in the pail of wheel bearing grease, and then squeeze the grease into the bearings. Press it into the cracks and work it into the bearings. You will know when you are good, the bearing will lock up and not turn when you get the grease into it properly. Smear a little extra around the outside and install it. Do not pack or put any grease in the empty cavity in the middle of the rotor hub.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

Do not pack or put any grease in the empty cavity in the middle of the rotor hub

Aw shoot! So, what would happen if I watched a YouTube video that told me to put a big glob in the cavity, and then I did it? Burst a seal or worse?

 

[chillman88]

I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. I always have put a little extra in the cavity.

I'm sure there's a reason not to if he's saying that though, I'm curious why not.

 

[Macrobb]

I've always found the hub cavity filled with grease, and when I regreased mine, I put quite a bit in there. Remember, centrifugal force should act on that grease and hopefully push it into the bearing as you are driving down the road.

As for getting old grease out, a small can of gasoline or other solvent works good - just move the bearing through the solvent a bunch, let it sit, move it back and forth and generally agitate it. The grease should dissolve into the solvent.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

Got the drivers side ball joints finished. That was considerably more work than I expected. Now that I've done one side, and have all the tools and grease handy, the passenger side should be a piece of cake tomorrow. Thanks guys!

 

[franklin2]

Excessive grease makes the wheel bearings run hot. It will also tend to push it out to the 4x4 hubs. You do not want any heavy wheel bearing grease in the lock-out hub area, it will cause them to be stubborn to release in cold weather.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

@franklin2 Very interesting. Glad to get that tid bit. I didn't put any extra grease on my passenger side. Kept everything really clean and didn't drop my bearings in the dirt this time. I'll mark on my calendar to pop off the lock out hub area and check for excessive grease in a few weeks. It doesn't get cold here in Chico California. Probably see the temperature drop to 25 during extreme winter weather, so hopefully there won't be a problem with sticky hubs.