AXLE PREP for maintanence and lockers

[riotwarrior]

Oops this is the correct one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Geartronics...993&pid=100005&prg=1088&rk=2&sd=370810616581&

And I would only use a ratchet NOT an impact this is strictly for ratchet or johnson bar stuff no impact what so ever!

 

[KyleQ]

KyleQ NO pic sorry...

Sorry - wasn't sure if that was directed to me at first or not.

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Cut a relief cut around the base close to the C and heat the C up with a torch and it should spin right out. No breaking 4' breaker bars or tearing the kingpin apart.

 

[freebird01]

when i did mine i cut a vertical flat on either side of the kingpin with a grinder....heated up the C with a torch and with a big pipe wrench and a 4' pipe they came right out

 

[KyleQ]

when i did mine i cut a vertical flat on either side of the kingpin with a grinder....heated up the C with a torch and with a big pipe wrench and a 4' pipe they came right out

I would be careful wit that method, if they are stuck in there, you could run into this...

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I like the lower relief cut, if it starts to crack, like I mentioned earlier, weld a washer around it to keep it together.

 

[riotwarrior]

I would be careful wit that method, if they are stuck in there, you could run into this...

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I like the lower relief cut, if it starts to crack, like I mentioned earlier, weld a washer around it to keep it together.

KyleQ

Again with the NO picture thingymabob...just sayin...

 

[riotwarrior]

Sorry - wasn't sure if that was directed to me at first or not.

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Cut a relief cut around the base close to the C and heat the C up with a torch and it should spin right out. No breaking 4' breaker bars or tearing the kingpin apart.

I think I'll try this once and if it works well twice! Looks like I imagined it would based on what you said!

May just throw a few layers of tape on the C prior to cutting so I have a margin of safety and keep the grinder disk away from that surface.

Hmmm....very good idea.

I'm busy doing prep for my ROPE rescue course this weekend...and cleaning shop...lil bird squawked in my ear that a small milling machine is making it's way to my shop and soon free apparently I'll wait n see.

This cut method would work well for me since I'm working on saw horses on that Axle!

Sounds like a U bolt flip is in order too ....damn shites coming together, just rip apart my old zf now!

 

[freebird01]

if you dont have it i know someone that has the drivers side cast ubolt plate they would be willing to sell

 

[riotwarrior]

if you dont have it i know someone that has the drivers side cast ubolt plate they would be willing to sell

I'll probably make some 3/8 plate U bolt plates so I can turn the u bolts NUT end up instead of down.

That will be nice change from well...snagging u bolts whilst wheeling.

Why U got somethign for sale? Pics?

 

[freebird01]

the original u-bolt plate on the drivers side is a cast piece that's made to go over the cast rib on the differential center section

 

[freebird01]

like this...

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[riotwarrior]

the original u-bolt plate on the drivers side is a cast piece that's made to go over the cast rib on the differential center section

Ya and that places bolt heads below axle not above springs like I"m wanting IIRC

 

[freebird01]

hey i got another link for you....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkGrkNu6mDg

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Help me understand *** you mean?

OK, found my 4.10 pinion (tripping over the differential with ring gear next to it kinda helped), so here are the pics -first is the bar pinion, you'll notice the small radius/fillet where the shaft for the crush sleeve bore meets the perpendicular surface of the step for the crush sleeve face to rest against:

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And then here it is with the crush sleeve slid on backwards, this is as far as she'll go:

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Second pic shows the fillet better actually, but I left both of them raw so you can zoom in well. The reason why the crush sleeve is hung up there now is that upon crushing during installation its end facing the pinion outer bearing gets shrunk a tiny bit in diameter so it's very tight around the pinion shaft, while the other end (facing the pinion head) gets stretched a tiny bit to clear the fillet I mentioned. If I had slid the crush sleeve on the way it came out it will go in all the way, but I flipped it for the pics just to illustrate my point easier. A solid spacer cannot shrink and/or expand like the crush sleeve does tho, so the inner edge of its end that once installed will be facing the pinion head needs a slight chamfer to clear the fillet on the pinion, or the spacer will get hung up just like the crush sleeve did in my pic. Keep in mind that not all pinions are the same, this 4.10 in particular seems to have quite a bit smaller fillet than the 3.55 that I used the solid spacer on, this the spacers would have cleared the 4.10 fillet with about half the chamfering it took it to clear the 3.55 fillet.

 

[riotwarrior]

OK, found my 4.10 pinion (tripping over the differential with ring gear next to it kinda helped), so here are the pics -first is the bar pinion, you'll notice the small radius/fillet where the shaft for the crush sleeve bore meets the perpendicular surface of the step for the crush sleeve face to rest against:

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And then here it is with the crush sleeve slid on backwards, this is as far as she'll go:

You must be registered for see images attach

Second pic shows the fillet better actually, but I left both of them raw so you can zoom in well. The reason why the crush sleeve is hung up there now is that upon crushing during installation its end facing the pinion outer bearing gets shrunk a tiny bit in diameter so it's very tight around the pinion shaft, while the other end (facing the pinion head) gets stretched a tiny bit to clear the fillet I mentioned. If I had slid the crush sleeve on the way it came out it will go in all the way, but I flipped it for the pics just to illustrate my point easier. A solid spacer cannot shrink and/or expand like the crush sleeve does tho, so the inner edge of its end that once installed will be facing the pinion head needs a slight chamfer to clear the fillet on the pinion, or the spacer will get hung up just like the crush sleeve did in my pic. Keep in mind that not all pinions are the same, this 4.10 in particular seems to have quite a bit smaller fillet than the 3.55 that I used the solid spacer on, this the spacers would have cleared the 4.10 fillet with about half the chamfering it took it to clear the 3.55 fillet.

Looks good, thanks!

I'll look closer when I get there and of course tons of pictues, I took a peek and I see some chamfer there on the kit but not much. It is for a 9" rear so should be good to go from what IWE said.

The preload is 10" lbs for used correct? Thats what I am going with as it is what I've been told.

Anyway Thanks again!

 

[KyleQ]

KyleQ

Again with the NO picture thingymabob...just sayin...

***< stupid attachment not working.


I would be careful wit that method, if they are stuck in there, you could run into this...

You must be registered for see images attach