AXLE PREP for maintanence and lockers

LCAM-01XA

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Looks good, thanks!

I'll look closer when I get there and of course tons of pictues, I took a peek and I see some chamfer there on the kit but not much. It is for a 9" rear so should be good to go from what IWE said.

The preload is 10" lbs for used correct? Thats what I am going with as it is what I've been told.

Anyway Thanks again!
7.5", 8", 8.8", 9", 10.25" - appears to be all the same really. I used Ratech 4105, which is listed for 7.5" and 9" rears. But 8.8" is damn near identical to 7.5", and 8" is damn near identical to 9", just different size of ring gear and therefore pinion head. And there are kits out there listed for both 7.5" and 8.8" gears, and some others listed for both 8" and 9" axles... So if A(7.5") = B(8.8"), C(8") = D (9"), and A = D, then A = B = C = D, right? Lol! Leave it to Ford to put a 1/4-ton (passenger car) crush sleeve into a ton and a quarter (cab-chassis DRW) truck...

Preload according to the Yukon Gear "book" should be 6-8 lbs for used bearings. I went slightly higher cause I stuck in a different pinion with its own inner bearing. Btw this is measured without the pinion seal in place, once you determine the shim pack thickness that gets you desired preload then you put the seal in and do a final assembly. Got a new pinion nut? If so dremel out the last few turns of the factory nut's thread so it is no longer a locking nut, this will make your life so much easier when you switch shims to get the preload right.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Btw, in case you needed any more ideas:

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Uses a factory fill plug, magnet and all.
 

KyleQ

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A fluid pump from the auto parts store hooked up backwards will pull nearly all of the gear lube out of the fill hole.

Why are you so concerned about changing diff fluid anyway? What is the service interval, 100k? I would like to pop the cover and inspect the R&P if I actually ever gave a ****. Millions of vehicles are neglected and running past their service internals without issue, lol.
 

freebird01

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water intrusion due to wheelin....

when i used my samurai a lot id do the diffs 2-3 times a year

when i get to putting my D60 together I plan on getting diff cover from Solid Industries. They are a nice heavy cast cover for under $100
 

KyleQ

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water intrusion due to wheelin....

when i used my samurai a lot id do the diffs 2-3 times a year

when i get to putting my D60 together I plan on getting diff cover from Solid Industries. They are a nice heavy cast cover for under $100

That makes sense - I've been wheeling for years and never really get water in the diffs though... Axle seals don't leak and proper breather location prevents that.

I prefer these covers from Greatlakesoffroad - a *bit* more beef that the cast Solid covers..

http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/GLO-Dana-60-Differential-Cover.html

Haha - and just for fun ;)

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0708_bulletproof_test/viewall.html
 

freebird01

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Those are nice...i just like the look of the SI cover. my truck is a CCLB DRW so i really wont be wheeling it lol
 

LCAM-01XA

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A fluid pump from the auto parts store hooked up backwards will pull nearly all of the gear lube out of the fill hole.

Why are you so concerned about changing diff fluid anyway? What is the service interval, 100k? I would like to pop the cover and inspect the R&P if I actually ever gave a ****. Millions of vehicles are neglected and running past their service internals without issue, lol.
There is minimal space between the ring gear flange and the wall of the hosing, snaking a hose there will be a pain. And then I gotta power up the pump too, and watch it so it don't burn out. In case of manual pump I have to operate it... I'm lazy, I'd much rather just pop the plug and go enjoy a cup of coffee while gravity takes care of business for me.

And I plan on changing my gear oil before summertime to the heavier 85W140 (80W90 right now, tis all I had at hand), but I don't wanna make the typical mess in the process.
 

KyleQ

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There is minimal space between the ring gear flange and the wall of the hosing, snaking a hose there will be a pain. And then I gotta power up the pump too, and watch it so it don't burn out. In case of manual pump I have to operate it... I'm lazy, I'd much rather just pop the plug and go enjoy a cup of coffee while gravity takes care of business for me.

And I plan on changing my gear oil before summertime to the heavier 85W140 (80W90 right now, tis all I had at hand), but I don't wanna make the typical mess in the process.

Good point, but there is more than enough room. I can pull gear out out of a TTB D50 with a Power-Lok in it, an open diff with a removable cover is even easier. But I hear ya on an easy drain plug - I'll eventually have that on my trail rig.
 

riotwarrior

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Ya ya...those are nice...however I'm a COB...cheap ole Ba$!@# and would rather for NOW just weld some bungs into my covers n be happy!

I've seen and read all about the fancy diff covers, and yes would love one, however my wallet and more important than that Superwifey would not approve!

Thus bungs it is! I could get away with those!

Just sayin!
 

laserjock

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Wow, Baltimore is that low on the list now? They must be getting old and slow. I like the drain plug idea. I welded bungs in a new, never used diesel tank with sucess. I should be able to handle that. Hmmm... more stuff to do.
 

Dieselcrawler

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i need to get rid of my stock rear cover. as of right now it is rubbing the ring gear from the last trip out... either going with a solid, ballistic, or ruffstuff when he gets to making them....
 
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