ATS 088 Turbine Housing

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by gerlbaum, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    Does any one know if there is a stock Garrett (or whoever) turbine housing that would fit the stock ATS 088 turbine wheel. I definitely have a 088 and not a 085 or 093 set up. I ask because I would like to weld on a T3 flange to the ATS up pipe to make turbo removal easier, not deal with leaking slip joints, and to use a tad bit small turbine housing for quicker spooling. I currently have 60-1 wheel and 60-1 compressor housing on the turbo.

    Or could anyone suggest a replacement wheel/shaft and t3 turbine housing that would fit the 088 center section and compliment the 60-1 compressor set up?

    I rebuilt the turbo and added the 60-1 compressor housing and wheel last summer so I don't want to get rid of the turbo yet. I actually do like the set up but was just trying to get a little sooner spooling.

    Thank you in advance.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
  2. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    Finding some info on here. Looks like the 088 is a t4 turbine wheel. So I should be looking at t4 turbine housings? Sorry I just don't have a good understanding of turbos.
     
  3. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    Ok I figured out it's a p trim turbine housing 64mm/74mm. Only thing left is what a/r I should go after with my 60-1 compressor housing and wheel. I found the 093 is a .70 a/r. But being that the 088 are not waste gated that might be too small. A/r size options I see are 1.32, 1.15, .96, .81, .68, and .58. My guess is a .96 or .81 would be a good option. Too small or too big?

    I've got some high nickel rod that I began to use with case iron 2 years ago and when you heat the part with a torch, ping the weld (I use a air chisel), and bury it in sand to cool it works awesome. Once I get the housing I am going to fit it to the existing ats up pipe, weld on the t4 flange and get an exhaust elbow to fit it to the existing ats exhaust.
     
  4. pelky350

    pelky350 Full Access Member

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    I had a 088 before my factory turbo, make sure you wrap up pipes and cross over, custom intake and 4 inch or greater exhaust will help spooling earlier if you haven't done that already. Mine never leaked at the slip joint just the manifold. The p trim wheel is supposed to be a great match to the 60-1 wheel I wouldn't go much smaller than it Though I would agree just a tad earlier spooling was what I wanted the whole time I had it
     
  5. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    If you want faster spooling go smaller than you think you need for the a/r. If it's choking power at higher rpms add an external wastegate.
     
  6. pelky350

    pelky350 Full Access Member

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    External waste gate fixes choking out at higher rpms? I've haven't heard of those yet? What are they and how do they work?
     
  7. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Same as an internal wastegate just a lot cheaper and mounted on your uppipe
     
  8. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    /I/ would have said that if it's choking off at higher RPMs... Get a bigger turbo! Something that can flow more, then add fuel to match!

    I mean, unless you /want/ stock levels of power, the factory turbo is pretty small as it is. It can't support any more than 250 at the wheels, period. It's a good match for a 90CC pump or slightly larger, but anything more than that, you simply aren't going to get enough air out of it to give you the HP.

    As for quick spooling, well, I've never noticed it to be bad... But then again, I'm running enough fuel to max it out, so it spools up quite nicely.
     
  9. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    So basically just stick a adjustable blow off valve somewhere in the piping? Is there any "rules" on whether to stick the BOV before or after an intercooler or does it not matter? Good excuse to add an intercooler :). I've got my pump turned up a few full turns and I can't get anything haze etc above 5 psi. Could be well worn as well, but injectors are new and I have a luminousity timer. But I got to watch my egts going up a steep hill in 110 degree heat. My water injection (no meth) stops it in it's tracks though. Due to the placement of the ats probe I won't let it go above 950. Water stops it around 750.
     
  10. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    I spent some time looking at the up pipe and I ended up ordering some ss tubing and flanges in case I just need to build my own up pipe for a better fitment. I'm thinking about doing a powerstroke type routing. I'm going to try and cutting and welding a flange on an extra passenger side manifold i have so it mimics the driver side and just flip the manifolds. I'll post some pics when I attempted it. In the mean time I'm going to cut some 1" body lift spacers on my lathe from a solid round of 6160-t6. I have a feeling I'll need the room.
     
  11. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    This explains the external wastegate quite well:
     
  12. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    Oh gotcha. Would adding an adjustable BOV work as well? Trying to keep stuff away from the hard to reach area behind the motor. I ordered my stuff today except the turbine housing. I'm still debating on that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2017
  13. tjsea

    tjsea Full Access Member

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    No. A bov is for gas engines to limit the pressure spikes when you let off the throttle quickly and the butterfly slams shut. The exhaust will still be a major restriction with a bov regulating boost levels.
     
  14. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    To add to this, a diesel has no need for a BOV, because it has no intake restrictor(throttle plate/butterfly valve).
     
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  15. gerlbaum

    gerlbaum Registered User

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    Thanks. Makes sense. So best way to control boost pressure is a waste gate (at least for a diesel).
     

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