As the project rolls along. Very, very slowly. Drive train build.

Noiseydiesel

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Last night was the end of a long day. I can tell by the amount of things I left out to get wet in a morning passing shower.
After looking for the 9/16 x 12 x 1.25 Ferry bolt or Flange bolt or Flange screw, I have come to find they are a grade 9 bolt and about $6 to $12 each. Not to mention a week or more away. The ones I removed from the rotor Budd wheel adapters have the heads melting with age. They have all come off with the use of the impact and some with the impact and a torch. Now at the distant end of my finances the thought of reusing those bolts is holding a great appeal especially at the trans fluid set me back about $43 a gallon yesterday. I picked up 4 of them, with a 25% off sale so it set me back $132 for the last 4 on the shelf.
BP Autran Syn 295, bla, bla, bla, Allison Transmission.
Cool beans.

Meanwhile the front bracket is waiting for me to cut off 2 bungs that are welded to it in order it would work on my frame. I also need to remove the twin I beam brackets and more from the 2WD frame and I have been avoiding that to the best of my effort. Weather guesser is calling for dry weather this coming week and the seasonal rains will be starting in September sometime very, very soon.
While I can put up a cover and keep dry with that, the ground doesn't play nice and I will be lying on it. That thought is a motivational prospect for grinding rivets off in the dry weather.
Time to go play and potentially build a great case of regret in reusing overpriced bolts.
Thinking about this, the hub is secured to the spindle and these bolts simply hold the rotor to the hub. 8 of them grade 9, I suspect is overkill.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Top pic would not show me using the official 5 gallon gas bucket for cleaning parts. Disposal of it is easy enough. Just leave the lid off and watch it evaporate slowly.

Middle pic shows 2 of the brackets that need to come off. With the engine in limbo, this should get done soon enough.

Bottom pic is the official steel workbench as I drive out bearing races with truck #1 in the back ground. It has parts in the back of it for truck #3, the one that is currently being redesigned.

Weather gueseer calling for clear skies this week, (maybe) just hoping for the best to get it ready for the engine to show up, if I am lucky, the 3rd of Sept.
Tonight I got most things put away and no rain predicted. Time to wrap this up, will catch y'all later.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Back again to provide more cheap entertainment.
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Well, I called. . . ASME(?) for the flange/ferry bolts/screws 9/16 X 12 X 1.25" Grade 9 hardness, I found them at 2" length. 25 of them for a price break and with expedited shipping came out to roughly $160.
Hope to see them around the end of the week. Maybe.

Not being satisfied with a $10 a bolt expenditure, i called CAC in Florida about the Allison transmission. I figured it was time to add the output speed sensor to the tail shaft of the transfer case. Yep! I used the wife's oven on broil and got the tone wheel smacked onto the shaft followed by the water hose to keep the nearby seal happy. Then dropped the cover in place to have a look and it might work. Next trick down the road is to place this all n the ground and get it measured to shorten the rear drive shaft and then get one made for the front.
They were nice and told be to spend mo' money on another gallon of trans fluid.
This is getting to be fun, just not for the wallet which is getting anorexic.
Next in line was getting the front reverse shackle mount ready for installation.
Well, this project is coming to a stopping point all too soon once the 2WD mounts are shaved off and the trans stuffed under the truck waiting for the engine.
I get to look at the Diamond Eye exhaust and see if it is going to play nice with the Allison.
That ought's be more entertainment.
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cre1992

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Last night was the end of a long day. I can tell by the amount of things I left out to get wet in a morning passing shower.
After looking for the 9/16 x 12 x 1.25 Ferry bolt or Flange bolt or Flange screw, I have come to find they are a grade 9 bolt and about $6 to $12 each. Not to mention a week or more away. The ones I removed from the rotor Budd wheel adapters have the heads melting with age. They have all come off with the use of the impact and some with the impact and a torch. Now at the distant end of my finances the thought of reusing those bolts is holding a great appeal especially at the trans fluid set me back about $43 a gallon yesterday. I picked up 4 of them, with a 25% off sale so it set me back $132 for the last 4 on the shelf.
BP Autran Syn 295, bla, bla, bla, Allison Transmission.
Cool beans.

Meanwhile the front bracket is waiting for me to cut off 2 bungs that are welded to it in order it would work on my frame. I also need to remove the twin I beam brackets and more from the 2WD frame and I have been avoiding that to the best of my effort. Weather guesser is calling for dry weather this coming week and the seasonal rains will be starting in September sometime very, very soon.
While I can put up a cover and keep dry with that, the ground doesn't play nice and I will be lying on it. That thought is a motivational prospect for grinding rivets off in the dry weather.
Time to go play and potentially build a great case of regret in reusing overpriced bolts.
Thinking about this, the hub is secured to the spindle and these bolts simply hold the rotor to the hub. 8 of them grade 9, I suspect is overkill.

I have replaced those bolts before. They are NLA from Ford, but you can get them on mcmastercarr. I used bolts with an allen socket head and they fit perfectly.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Bolts with the Allen head call into question the hardness rating. I briefly looked into those and decided to pass. The wife reminded me that auto makers did not needlessly spend money building vehicles. I had to agree and plunk down the big bucks, very, very reluctantly.
 

Booyah45828

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A lot of your socket cap screws exceed grade 8 rating for tensile strength and hardness. Confirm with your exact bolt with spec's from the manufacturer, but again, most are premium compared to most hex head fasteners out there.
 

Noiseydiesel

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That fastener I am waiting for is either a Flange bolt or a Ferry bolt. Complete with the 12 point head.
They should be here Friday, maybe. Today was entertaining enough. I got the front bracket mounted and while playing with that a call from Promar engine saying they didn't find much wrong with the engine. a few scratches on bearings but not much else. Well, at least it gets all cleaned up again from the metal shards of a valve cover baffle and I can start again with that engine in maybe another 2 weeks. It is also getting a girdle installed and with the head studs might last awhile longer along with another oil pump and cooler.
Back to the fun at hand. Got the bracket for the 2WD frame installed behind the front bracket. This small piece mounts inside the frame for reinforcement. The shackle bracket is a "U" shape that encompasses the frame horns.
I did manage to get one of the 2WD brackets off. Grind an "X" in the middle of the rivet, air chisel off the high spots, then pop out the rivets with a pointed bit and keep going. Tomorrow will be the other 4-1/2 brackets. That front shackle mount might cost me the ability to mount the front hitch.
That might be a bit of custom work to get that done.

Enough for now, y'all have a good night.
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Noiseydiesel

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Well, the computer DSL line is down and the phone only works in a few select areas outside, if your lucky. Waiting for the engine, need to pop off the other brackets to make room for the 4X4 leaf springs and stuff the Allison under the truck. Rain coming tonight and I need to get moving. Will catch you good people at a later time. Next time I might even have a pic of a busted valve cover baffle that started all this.
Peace be with you.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Back again. DSL came back on this afternoon and finally got the last bracket off this evening.
Researched the rear spring perch and suspect I will be making another trip to town tomorrow for a few more bolts.
See if I can find a few pics of the baffle that started all this including the busted spot welds.
It will get bolted to the valve cover with some stainless bolts and then double nutted on the outside.
Once the rain passes tomorrow morning, I will finish the gravel driveway plywood panel work surface for the engine hoist and get the trans stuffed under the truck.
Somewhere in there are body bushings and a few other things to get done.
Those fancy bolts might be here tomorrow and I can finish the Dana 60 assembly.
Catch you later!
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Noiseydiesel

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Well lets see now, I spoke to Promar who said they found nothing wrong with the engine other than the broken oiler that I sent them and a few scratches on bearings. Nothing to produce a bottom end noise that I suspected, strongly suspected hearing. Guess i will call them Monday and find out when I get it back. I goofed that up by not calling them Friday.
Oh well.
Got the rotor installed along with the 4X4 hub using a clamp to hold it in place while starting the assembly.
Wheel bearing nuts were fun to research and find the actual spec for adjusting .
The new front reverse shackle bracket just eliminated the front hitch. I have a feeling a custom made unit might be on the drawing board. No room on the frame horns as currently designed.

I did manage to get one rear leaf spring clamped in place waiting for the drill bit action tomorrow.
The engine stand needs the hand winch fabbed onto the back of it and is patiently waiting for the 800 pound engine to roost upon it once more hopefully in the near future.

Well the transfer case has been rebuilt once again, the front axle has been reworked and a Elocker added, now to get the trans out of the crate tomorrow and slid up under the truck. I had fun cutting down one piece of plywood to fit between the jack stands and wide enough to run the trans jack on.
Add two more pieces to it and I should get a high dollar 20 feet of flat area to run the engine hoist over.
I should have enough time to put the front axle under it but how much easier would it be to install the engine with the front axle out?
Time to wrap this up. Y'all have fun.

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Noiseydiesel

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Yesterday was entertaining enough and gave me an opportunity to flex my stupidity.
I sold off the old E4OD and told the new owner all of it's deficiencies. He was pleased enough to get it and I hope it works out for him.
The photo below is a study of stupidity and what not to do.
In the back ground the 33 hour mobile work bench has the chains hanging off of it used to pull the Allison out of the crate. The block on top of the jack is an invitation to a failure and looking at it, you should see one edge of the block rising off the jack. The jack stand is just a speed bump should the truck decide to fall as the front wheels of the floor jack were on the edge of a sheet of plywood as it was being crushed under the weight of this test of ignorance.
Those little creaks just before the giant crash sort of thing.
Notice the clamp on the frame that is holding up the rear leaf spring mount.

GEE! Now if I was smart enough to drill the holes in the frame before stuffing the transmission into the flying metal fragments environment might have been intelligent. Not to mention poking the hole in the floor board for the transfer case handle. The hole is actually there, I now need to pull up the interior carpet now and access it from the top. I guess while I am in there I will also be looking at body mounts also.
As for the harbor junk trans jack, it would have worked better if i fixed it first by initially replacing all the wheels that do not spin for spit. More high quality "Land of almost" junk. Not to mention the wobble factor as the transmission gets raised up for installation later.
Later today should be the boring drill holes for mounts and move forward with that aspect of this entertainment.
Wednesday is payday and another opportunity to spend mo' money fixing the engine stand.
Catch y'all later!



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