Any tips/tricks for valve cover gaskets?

[whiteboyslo]

Looks like my passenger side cover is leaking in the back near the firewall, outer edge. Seems like a pretty straight-forward job, though clearances get a little tight back there. Any tips for this job, or preferred brand of gaskets?

Just a reminder that I have the Banks system on my truck, if it makes a difference.

Mike

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i got felpro and have not had a leak since. you have to take off the fuel filter bracket off so you can move the valve cover forward and then up to get it out.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Not hijacking thread, but I was wondering same thing. Mine too is leaking very nicely lol.

 

[whiteboyslo]

Thanks! I take it that means you have to disconnect some hard lines to/from the fuel filter as well?

Mike

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Thanks! I take it that means you have to disconnect some hard lines to/from the fuel filter as well?

Mike

Yes

 

[Optikalillushun]

Trying to wrestle the pass valve was a total ***** for me. I think i read someone recommended remving part of the evap box to aid in removal.

 

[RLDSL]

remove teh fuel filter for clearance. Shouldnt need to split the evap box for just the valve cover, but for head removal it's essential .. Get a set of Victor Reinz or factory Gaskets( one and the same) and dress them with a light coat of Hylomar on each side and when you go to set the bolts on make sure to turn all of the tension spreaders over ( invert them from the position that they were previously in, easy to tell , look at their edges, they will bend up at the edges on the side that was previously up. Turn that side facing DOWN so that they spread the tension evenly away from the bolt hole and allow you to torque the gasket down evenly ( before installing check the pans and take a tapping hammer to them if there is any deformation around any of teh holes and flatten them out ) Use an inch pound torque wrench and torque to spec and you will have a leak free set of valve covers

 

[opusd2]

When it came to valve covers I always liked the cork ones with a coating of grease from the grease gun I hit the zerks with. It helps the gasket stick to the covers as I lift them to where they need to be, stop leaks better than dry gaskets, aren't as difficult to clean as RTV'd cork gaskets, and work as nicely as rubber over steel. Just my experience.

I learned this from an old farmer. May be crude, but it works.

 

[icanfixall]

When I did my rebuild I used permatex ultra copper rtv on both sides of the felpro gasket. I still run a dry engine too. Just make sure the gasket surfaces are clean enough to eat off of and the rtv will grab hold and no leaks. Hylomar is a great idea that has never failed Robert too plus... It never hardens... Rolls Royce uses it on thier jet engines. So if its good enough for them it will work fine on our fords...

 

[Black dawg]

Looks like my passenger side cover is leaking in the back near the firewall, outer edge. Seems like a pretty straight-forward job, though clearances get a little tight back there. Any tips for this job, or preferred brand of gaskets?

Just a reminder that I have the Banks system on my truck, if it makes a difference.

Mike

If they are the original gaskets, have you tried snugging up the bolts. I dont think I have ever HAD to replace any of the original gaskets. Snugging them up occasionally has always worked for me.

 

[whiteboyslo]

That's the plan for this weekend.

Mike

 

[riotwarrior]

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN, and once you think that the head and valve cover are clean, CLEAN them again! then you are likely clean enough!

I prefer to Aviation form a Gasket on the Valve cover and attach the gasket, and if you need to remove the covers for say lifter/valve adjustment I coat the other side with GREASE...SEEING AS WE DO NOT DO ROUTINE LIFTER/VALVE ADJUSTMENT and can install and forget, I would use either some ultra copper RTV or avaiation form a gasket.

If I use RTV, I install the valve cover or what ever it is I"M installing and bring the bolts down snug, NOT TIGHT but snug, good n snug, but not to torque, LET RTV cure if possible 24 HOURS, then torque down once RTV cured...this works extremely well! NEVER a LEAK EVER...when I do all my prep and follow this I have great success....

RESULTS TYPICAL...

RESULTS MAY VARY FOR DIFFERENT USERS...

 

[icanfixall]

When I use the rtv I allow it to tack up. Then install it. When I do a water pump I use 3M yellow weatherstrip cement on the gasket to pump. Then rtv on the gasket to water pump plate or in some houses... Gear cover plate... Never a leak.. Cleanlyness is what makes for a good seal no matter what sealant you use.

 

[rockbender]

When I do a water pump I use 3M yellow weatherstrip cement on the gasket to pump. Then rtv on the gasket to water pump .

Does this ensure that the gasket comes off on the water pump when you remove it? Interesting idea - I would have never thought of that.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes. The gaskets sticks to the waterpump but not the cover plate. easy removel too.