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Antarctic IDI Build

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Thewespaul, Oct 15, 2017.

  1. Tumbleweed210

    Tumbleweed210 Full Access Member

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    Wait...WHAT...awwwww man...if I'd have know you was gonna start the Ambo up...would've liked to have seen dat!
    Sub'd to see the final product...

    Oh ANd...the SuperDuke is running like a BEAST! I actually passed some cars yesterday...
     
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  2. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Had an eventful ride in the ambo yesterday while working on getting the wastegate set just right to keep it from over boosting on downshifts and swapping speedo gears in to get the speedometer accurate with the 37s. Was driving down my usual test route on I10 on the long hills outside Comfort had a blowout on one of the rear tires at 65 just outside Boerne on my way back to the shop E66AA01C-2850-4721-80A2-B5F36D385538.jpeg

    Luckily other than the exhaust getting tweaked and my shorts needing a quick replacement nothing or no one was hurt. I had a good jack and impact in the truck with me so I was able to swap it out on the side of the road, but it’s not an experience I’d like to go through again, 12k lbs lifted on three wheels isn’t a fun ride, just glad there wasn’t a trailer behind it. Otherwise, very happy with how the ambo is running with the new intake setup, as long as you don’t let the E40D dog itself below 2200 it’s got plenty of room for egts and good power for pulling itself up these big hills, and ice cold ac with outside temps well into triple digits. I did have the fuel filter light come on once the rear tank got below 1/3, and it started loosing fuel pressure until I pulled the prefilter off and blew it out. Very odd that it’s still getting clogged since that tank was cleaned out before being reinstalled, but after refilling the tank it was fine. I’m thinking the selector valve is passing some crud and blocking things up, so I’m going to clean it out and replace the main fuel filter again.

    Now that the egts are under control, the coolant and trans temps are much better, coolant never got above 210 and trans never above 220, I’m thinking once the stock cooler is deleted and the new cooler added on the return from the rad trans cooler it won’t have any issues keeping the trans below 200. Double checked for boost leaks once I got it back to the shop and were still solid after getting some miles under it and getting the under hood temps nice and hot. Currently reworking the exhaust and removing the muffler to try and get the egts down a bit more, and trying one different size speedo gear, I’ve got it 5mph fast at 65, which is closer than it’s been, but I’m thinking one tooth change will get me where it needs to be.
     
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  3. subway

    subway be nice to the admin :D

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    i have played the "ride the blown out tire" game a couple of times now, once while towing a nice load of firewood on the trailer doing about 70 down the interstate. one of the few times my son heard me really swear. i felt bad after i got it stopped, i think my reaction more than the actual danger to the truck turned him white. LOL

    still not a game a like to play
     
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  4. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Got the speedo dead on this time, and found the happy spot for the wastegate where it stayed safe even with a trailer behind it but didn’t sacrifice spool up, got a video uploading of it. I ordered what I needed to finish up the new exhaust, going to put a v band at the transmission instead of the band clamp, for the time being I just put a turn down off the downpipe to keep heat off the trans, really isn’t very loud as you can tell in the video.

    I also finished up the external cooler mount and deleting the stock unit, it took some time fiddling with the orientation and line routing but I’m pretty happy how it came out. 5D75A056-A60A-47A0-81EA-77C96E308F6F.jpeg C28F0556-B880-4906-B764-D083CC6D7ECE.jpeg B4177030-A6D9-4039-A337-34692D447F3A.jpeg

    All the lines run outside the frame away from the heat next to the water lines, and dont come any lower off the cooler than the bottom of the cab. I figured out how I wanted to control the fan and built everything on the bench, I start off using an oem ford (Mercury) fan temp switch (easy to get at any parts store or dealership) in-line on the incoming trans line that supplies a ground to the fan. In-line to that is a switched ground that will go to a toggle in the cab so that if the temp switch fails you have manual override to turn the fan on. The fan will get power in the accessory or ignition position, and is protected by the same relay/breaker/fuse combo I used on the e pump circuit.
     
  5. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Had to reupload the video, here it is

     
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  6. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Of course I upload the wrong video, third try’s a charm

     
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