Another CDR thread (aka argument thread)

[OLDBULL8]

I've read threads where people have converted from a CDR to a road draft, then by the same guy in another thread, was complaing about oil leaks. He used only a 1/2" hose where it should have been a 1" hose. A 1" hose ID has 4 times the ID area than a 1/2" hose has.

 

[david85]

One thing I noticed with my dad's 6.5 turbo is the valve cover has a baffle inside it filled with steel wool. Perhaps this would help separate oil vapor from the heavy, condensed oil? Then again, our [non turbo] IDIs take oil in from the valley where there is still a baffle and probably less oil getting flung around so it probably wouldn't make that much difference.

 

[TahoeTom]

Here is my catch can. I used a Goldenrod Filter, and used a stainless steel strainer made by them to replace the filter element. If you have a Banks kit you probably already have the adapter that goes on the IP gear cover. The Goldenrod is available with 1" pipe thread, so the fittings were the same size as the Banks adapter and the CDR. The bowl is amber and I can see how much oil is in there. After about 10K miles the oil was up to the bottom of the strainer, at least half a cup or more that didn't make it's way into my intake. I was still getting oil past this setup so I made some improvements (hopefully). I found a stainless pot scrubber that when stretched out was like a tube that I fit around the strainer. I wrapped some thin aluminum flashing around the strainer and under the steel wool to force the vapor to travel further before going through the strainer. I think before the vapor was passing through the strainer as soon as it entered, letting a lot of the oil pass through. I haven't driven much since this change, but I expect it will work better.
The Goldenrod Filters don't give you an easy way to mount them.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&ipp=24&Ntt=goldenrod

 

[laserjock]

Engineers are also limited in what they are allowed to do.

One of my favorite parts about not being an engineer. It's good not being bound by theory. [emoji6]

Another vote for a poll, but I'm not sure what. Favorite ice cream flavor?

All schtick aside, I'm in favor of a catch can for the oil. Oil vapor going back into the intake just makes a mess. I'll probably do that to mine.

 

[IDIoit]

hmmm brings up a question of :
does the oil from the CDR in a turbo application to the intake, do anything to lube the turbo????

 

[david85]

One of my favorite parts about not being an engineer. It's good not being bound by theory. [emoji6]

In fairness, I was more referring to project funding. But I can't disagree with your statement either. I've worked with engineers a few times now. Only one really stood out as a real go-getter who had practical capabilities. The rest seemed stuck in pencil & paper mode.

Back to the original topic,

What about using an industrial oil separator for instrumentation air? Most heavy industrial compressors are oil type and need some way to separate/filter that back out if the air has to be clean. I can't imagine CFM being an issue, and compressed air can also get pretty hot in larger operations.

 

[laserjock]

Engineers are like anything else. There are good ones and bad ones. All depends on what you need as to how you classify. I find that the best ones aren't really pure engineers but are more like designers. When I need a hair brained idea vetted or help with a problem, I go find an old crusty designer that's been there, done that. If I need to know if I can manufacture it or if it will collapse under its own weight, I go find an engineer.

Back to the discussion.

The cfm difference would probably be the problem. A lot of those rely on the air velocity to do the separation. It essentially squeezes the oil and water out.

 

[BDCarrillo]

hmmm brings up a question of :
does the oil from the CDR in a turbo application to the intake, do anything to lube the turbo????

Ha! That's a good one...

Velocity and direction changes can easily eject liquids from an aerosol, but getting them just right at proper CFM is a pain. I'm more a fan of providing nucleation sites (aka steel wool, pot scrubbers, etc) to coax liquids out along with a pressure drop (aka larger chamber).

Yes... I'm an engineer...

So far I haven't found an off the shelf solution for a reasonable price that would work well on our trucks.

 

[HS108]

What do you think about the ccv4500, it's a little pricey but looks like an option, I would plug the drain, and just empty it as needed though.

 

[david85]

Ok so far we have pressure drop and nucleation methods (steel wool). It seems to me that temperature is also a factor here. Hot oil is more likely to generate vapor even if it wasn't for all the blowby gases. What if the oil separator were physically located somewhere that cold air is blown onto it? Most (not all) vaporized liquids will try to condense when moved from a hot to cold environment.

 

[bike-maker]

You engineers can theorize all you want about your nucleation methods...
This thread has my findings on the subject.
Also a nice assortment of home brew catch cans.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?67332-RDT-Into-Exhaust/page3

 

[Greg5OH]

regarding catch cans, I will be trying mine soon. My crank ventilation is a 3/4" npt bump and 1" barb welded to the IP access cover, this is a straight shot from the oil pan. Better than fighting to get air out past the oil drain backs thru the head. it is a 1" hose, goe sup the loops down in hopes of heavier oil running back down the tube. There was aLOT of oil mist coming out the tube when warmed up. Truck does have 340k miles on it so blowby is more than a new engine for sure.

my catch can is a 4" x10" long tube with 3 offset baffles with holes in them, and abotu 8 stainless steel stubby pads in there. Ball drain valve on the bottom, standard gasser breather vent on top. We will see how much oil gets collected, and if there are any oily emissions coming up from the breather. I might re introduce that air pre compressor, but well see first. My main concern is too much oil getting blown out and havin to add oil ever 500 miles or so which is unacceptable. I usually needed less thna quart per 5-6k mile OCI


ps bike-maker, that is NICR catch can, mine is ultra ugly lol

 

[OLDBULL8]

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ccv1.php

This is for a PSD, but some good points in it. Like a hose going up hill at first to drain any oil back down, make sure there is no low spot for oil to collect, a 1" hose is used, back pressure measured.

 

[MontanaJack]

Thanks to Bike-Maker for the link to that thread. A lot of really good pictures and ideas on there for a "catch can".

A poll huh? About CDRs or Engineers?

 

[IDIoit]

Thanks to Bike-Maker for the link to that thread. A lot of really good pictures and ideas on there for a "catch can".

A poll huh? About CDRs or Engineers?

how about a poll in regards to your picture?