air intrusion?

[Runningaford]

I've been slowly working on getting my truck ready to add the turbo I bought. So far I changed out the valve covers to the turbo covers, and put in the turbo wiring harness today. I wanted to crank the truck up, and make sure all to this point was 'good to go', and let it run before moving on with the turbo install.

Well, no fire at the end of the day. The truck has been very reliable, and will fire up even without gp's; as the temp here is in the 70's. Between the wiring harness, gp replacement, and the valve covers, I'd been laying all over the engine. I tried to be very careful of all things, but did end up bumping into the fuel system often while removing the original harness, and replacing the gp's.

I haven't had a chance to trace down the issue further as my daylight was leaving. With the key on, I checked voltage at the FSS, and it had full battery voltage; so I'm kinda stuck thinking it's actually air intrusion at this point. The engine has 80k miles on it, and half the return system has been replaced; half is original.

On a hunch I just read Agnem's website regarding return lines, and it states:"Typically these return line systems are very reliable until disturbed by nearby mechanical action, which may break the contact surface seal of any component in the vicinity. Once a component is disturbed, it is time to service the entire O-ring and cap system. "

I'm no bull in a china cabinet, but can bumping into, or light pressure cause 'nearby mechanical action', ending up breaking the seal?

Fwiw, or extra information the glow plug controller isn't working I did put in new gp's, and am going to convert over to a push button; the relays good.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

If you haven't replaced the caps/orings before, it would be a very good time to do it. With the charger in place, it makes it tight in some areas... plus the return line from the passenger side rear cylinder is a bit close to the charger... I prefer to run it forward, around the intake hat and back to the T on the driverside. This puts some distance between the hose and hot parts.

You can get a GOOD kit from a member here... search for Typ4 and send him a message. I would go on and get a kit with Viton o-rings. Use plenty of grease/lube on the o rings and caps for assembly and make sure the caps snap down into place.

As for the relay... make sure the ground is good otherwise, it wont function.

 

[Runningaford]

Thanks for the info on typ4, didn't know he did return line kits. I'll check his pricing as well.

Again, I ran out of daylight, but can simply wrenching on your engine, and in the vicinity of the fuel system cause a loss of seal?? I guess to be even more clear, has anyone personally experienced such a thing?

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Depends on the age of the components.

If the o-rings and caps haven't been replaced in years, sure twisting them or jarring them could case one to start leaking. Same goes for the hose as its not held on all that well with those little spring clamps... not very difficult to knock a hose off of one of the caps. Also, not too hard to crack a cap if they are old/brittle.

If the parts are relatively new, then its not very likely. You may have pulled a cap up and out of place while fishing the harness out. May check and make sure they are all still seated (again, if they are relatively new... if not, just replace them. Cheap insurance)

 

[JLtoolman]

It don't take much movement, especially if the rings are old. My truck sat for 2 years with a bad trans. When I started getting it back running, it would leak down overnight. I replaced the o-rings and return lines, and the problem went away. I had the same problem with a Bobcat skidsteer, with the same results.

That being said, it should start after 2 or 3, 15 second starter spins.

Make sure you have fuel only at the valve in the top of the filter (no air).