Aftermarket tank selector valve

Mulochico

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It only pulls from the front tank. The supply line is only connected to the front tank. The return splits and goes into both. The hose connecting the 2 tanks levels the 2. It seems to almost empty the rear tank before the gauge starts lowering on the front. I kept the switch connected electronically to the senders so I can check the level in either tank, but the fuel doesn't go thru the switch any more to avoid the possibility of malfunction. My switch malfunctioned and was pulling from the front and returning to the rear with a big mess as a result. Being an old school trucker (33+ years) I remember the connecting hose between the tanks and adjusted for our setup.

Here is the link to the thread when I did the modifications: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/fuel-tank-switch-bypass.34465/
 

laserjock

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To the OP, if you go with the pollack valves, they are weather pack connections so you have to change your plug. Not a big deal. Just be aware.
 

franklin2

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That's what I did several years ago. Working great and no more selector valve. Pulls fuel from front tank (slightly lower) returns to both thru a "T" connector. Simple, old school, and less things to think about in the future. I did a write up at the time and didn't get much positive feedback. Oh well, to each his own. Bottom of rear tank, side of front with valves on each if I need to drop a tank.

I wondered how this works out when filling? Can you keep filling the rear tank and it fills the front tank at the same time? Or is the line too small and you still have to put some in the front tank also?

If you fill the front tank first, I assume some will go to the rear also. And topping off; Both fillers are at the same height, so theoretically, topped off full would be the same for both tanks. But if you have a slight rake to your truck like most are factory, the rear filler may be a little higher. Have you ever had the front tank overflow a little bit when topping off the rear tank?
 

hadley000

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My rear tank was leaking so I replaced it with a new 38 gallon tank for a gasser and got rid of the mid tank altogether, the lines were rotted out and the tank wasn't long for the world anyway. I bypassed the selector and ran new copper-nickel fuel lines. About the same capacity with less headaches of a possible future faulty selector valve. The extra weight out back when plowing seems to help too.
 

Mulochico

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I wondered how this works out when filling? Can you keep filling the rear tank and it fills the front tank at the same time? Or is the line too small and you still have to put some in the front tank also?

If you fill the front tank first, I assume some will go to the rear also. And topping off; Both fillers are at the same height, so theoretically, topped off full would be the same for both tanks. But if you have a slight rake to your truck like most are factory, the rear filler may be a little higher. Have you ever had the front tank overflow a little bit when topping off the rear tank?

Still have to fill each tank. Transfer keeps up with fuel supply but filling it is faster than it can transfer. Think semi trucks, you still have to fuel each tank unless you want to wait. :)
 

yotekiller

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I saw the RockAuto one, I think maybe the summit link was cheaper? I don't remember but there was a reason I posted the one I did. Maybe because RockAuto didn't post the link correctly lol!

If you get the one with the plug included you'll have to wire it up but I can't see why anything would need to be changed, it just needs the new plug wired on because it's a different plug, just wire according to the diagrams and you should be all set.

Sadly my procrastination is so efficient I still have not fixed mine yet lol!

I really should get on that but it'll be waiting until warmer weather! It got up to 12 degrees today, low tonight is 3. My truck is a bit large, I'm not sure it'll fit in my garage. I haven't measured yet though so I don't know haha.
the original was still on mine, I did some more research, I ended up taking it apart, cleaning it and letting it soak with fluidfilm spray which has Lanolin in it then the next day I soaked it with WD40, worked it a lot by hand then reassembled, plugged back up yesterday and it is working, at least seems to be, I got the front tank back on yesterday it was 16 here yesterday and by the time I got that done I was finished outside, was Zero this morning, our high for today is 16 LOL all I gotta do is fix the filler necks for the front tank put in fuel and then I am going to pop the return line off the rear tank and see what happens.. hopefully all that spraying and cleaning did some good... Thanks for your reply
 

BRShirk

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Do you have a link to the write up?

I would've thought you'd just connect the lines coming from the tank pickups. But this is my 1st time messing with dual tanks.

My truck has a 5sp so outside the radio I want to get rid of a much electronics a possible.
 

franklin2

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Do you have a link to the write up?

I would've thought you'd just connect the lines coming from the tank pickups. But this is my 1st time messing with dual tanks.

You can't tee the original lines together, when one tank goes empty then the pump will just suck air out of that tank rather than fuel out of the other.

Your best choice is to buy that one large tank they sell on Amazon and put it in the rear. You lose your spot for the spare tire though. If you are going to do any other type of tie together deal with no valves, you will have to modify the tanks like the other guy did.

P.S. You could keep the tanks and add a transfer pump to one of them to transfer fuel from one to the other, keeping one tank the main that the engine uses. But that will require a pump, switch and wiring that can go bad.
 
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