A little more power cheap or easy?

prepowerstroke

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I've heard of some guys running a propane injection on their IDI's, doing that you will get more power less if any smoke and better mpg


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oregon96psd

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I've heard of some guys running a propane injection on their IDI's, doing that you will get more power less if any smoke and better mpg


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Ive heard thats really ******* wrist pins, but ive never been around anything thats had it so i dont know. It does make sense though, low octane fuel in a high compression engine.
 

79jasper

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Well, at stock CR numbers, it's a bad idea.
But say with one on the aftermarket cams, probably good to go.

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HOLD ON THERE! I didn't see anybody ask where his pyrometer probe is, and since he has a banks, there is a darn good chance it is on the turbo or POST turbo. Which means, at 900 degrees, he is maxed out if so! Best recommendation is to make sure that pyrometer probe is within 3" of the exhaust manifold so when we talk temps, we are all talking about the SAME thing.

Technically, Banks literature says the max is 1000 degrees, 1050 max. That assumes the pyrometer is in the location the Banks kit intends it to be.

Mike
 

dunk

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Pyro probe I believe is in the pedestal just before the turbo. Not sure how much much heat is lost between manifolds and the turbo but maybe there isn't as much room for more fuel as I had hoped.

Found the exhaust leak, passenger manifold where the exhaust bolts up. Typical rusted solid nuts on the studs. I'm soaking in PB and heat cycling now and hopefully that frees them up. Don't feel like snapping a stud.

Up pipe is looks it flows poorly. Down back and bends back up above trans with a fairly tight regular crimp bend. Drivers side just T's into it before the tight bend to go up. Doubt this will fit a ZF5 simply because it's somewhat tight to the C6 so little wiggle room for a different size or shape trans. Also have read the manual trans early banks pedestal is different, doesn't go down as sharply and the up pipe is 1/4" smaller to fit a taller manual trans. Of course that was for either a NP435 or T19 and although it's been years since I've worked with either of those I know the ZF5 is a bit bulky and certainly not smaller than a 4 speed.

While soaking this I took the air filter out to clean it. Packed pretty good with dust/dirt and also some leaves and trash got sucked in too. Probably won't be noticeably different with it clean but it certainly won't hurt. Hoping I can get those nuts loose on the manifold and eliminate that leak. Maybe it'll build pressure a little better with that fixed.
 

jayro88

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Someone correct me if I am wrong, but isnt 7-8psi a little on the low side during hard acceleration?
 

dunk

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Got nuts loose on the manifold flange. Tried tightening and still leaked. Removed them both and coated studs and nuts in antiseize and tightened again, tighter since they were lubed with antiseize stills leaks. Not as bad though. I'll fight this some more this weekend and try to get the leak fixed. Think I may need to try to move the pipe around a bit and clean any soot or crud off the flange. Really don't want to have to remove the pipe as that would mean removing the whole thing from the other manifold as well as the turbo. Any tips on getting this sealed? Just a standard tapered/ball on the manifold and pipe is flared, two studs.

Filter is clean and oiled. I dislike the big box Banks setup. A pain to get to anything. I think since the pedestal needs to be changed to do a ZF5 (unless someone says otherwise from experience) it's gonna get changed when I do the ZF5. Sucks but it's probably gonna be ZF5, new turbo setup either off the shelf or piece something together and do an intercooler, and may as well do studs at that point so I don't have to pull it all apart again. ZF swap is getting real expensive! For now I'd be happy to have it run as well as it can for what it is.
 

Black dawg

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I adapted that style banks kit to a zf5 truck, was a huge pain, the up pipe was pretty squished flat right where it bolted to the pedestal.

as far as egt with probe in that location, when I wrapped my pipes it raised egt almost 100 deg at the turbo at wot.

does your turbine housing have an a/r on it? I have seen larger than 1.1 on some of those kits.
 

dunk

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I am noticing a major difference in performance driving it this morning. Turbo is much louder, starts building psi earlier (1400-1500 vs closer to 2000), more rapidly and more psi at lighter pedal/load too. Definitely want to get this leak totally sealed as just getting what I considered a fairly small leak to leak less seems to have made a noticeable improvement. I'm sure the air filter being as dirty as it was didn't help it any either.

Good to know this can be made to work with a ZF5. If you had to do it again would you use what you had or find/buy/make something that fit better?
 

Black dawg

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I would NOT try that project again, pipe was touching top of bell, and uncomfortably close to the firewall. I would not have done that for myself, but was trying to help someone that already bought and mostly installed the turbo kit.
 

prepowerstroke

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Ive heard thats really ******* wrist pins, but ive never been around anything thats had it so i dont know. It does make sense though, low octane fuel in a high compression engine.

I'm not sure about that but it could be for all i know lol is have seen people run propane kits on IDI's and PSD's


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Desert Diesel Dog

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You said… “4:10’s are not an option”

First… so I don’t get in trouble here. I am Not an expert and am just learning from others here that have much more experience with IDI’s than I do.

See my profile below. I have a ZF5 [must be] Wide Ratio 5 speed. I also have 4:10’s in the back and standard tires. I Really Like This Setup. I normally start in 2nd gear… no problem. I have the 1st gear ‘granny’ that I use for ‘careful moves’ and in 4 wheel drive HI. Second, third and forth gears seem just a little low geared but ok.

5th gear ‘OD’ IS GREAT. My ‘sweet spot’ is 2250 rpm and about 63 mph. On an easy run, I would expect somewhere close to 20 mpg. It’s a healthy engine and has plenty of power for this.

From what I understand the ZF5 5th gear is actually ‘geared up’… not just 1 to 1. [.73 to 1 if I remember right… check this]

So… if you get a ‘wide ratio’ ZF5, you might still consider using the 4:10’s
 

dunk

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Don't want 4.10 as even with a ZF that would put me around the same crazy highway RPM it's turning now. I've had 4.10:1 in one truck before, it was a 302 with a ZF5 and it definitely needed 4.10:1 to do any work especially with the cam it needed to make any power with such small displacement. That engine was always screaming, don't want to do that again for something I drive every day and use for occasional long distance on the highway.

My 460 truck has 3.55:1, ZF5, and 35" tires and I find it perfect for my needs. Never a lack of torque or pulling power, low range works great for moving trailers around tight spaces, gets rolling with a load just fine in granny without dragging the clutch,and can cruise happily at 70 MPH at 2000 RPM with a 5000 lbs load in 5th on level or slight grades. I want the IDI to do the same thing and essentially be the same truck but an IDI instead of a 460... and hopefully at a lower cost per mile. Right now the IDI is getting slightly better MPG (460 gets 12.5 unloaded and 10-10.5 towing 5000 lbs, IDI about 1-2 MPG better so far) but with diesel costing slightly more than 93 octane my cost per mile is the same. A few more MPG with a ZF5 should start saving money and with 57 gallons of fuel vs 38 give me a much greater range.
 

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