94 F350 Transfer Case Problems

89Laredo

Underemployed
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
565
Reaction score
1
Location
Sheffield, ia
If i was going to use motor oil it would be 0w20, ATF (what that case is designed for) is pretty thin.
I don't think it will hurt it any, lots people have have ran gear oil in them thinking they're like the old gear drive cases.
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
If i was going to use motor oil it would be 0w20, ATF (what that case is designed for) is pretty thin.
I don't think it will hurt it any, lots people have have ran gear oil in them thinking they're like the old gear drive cases.

The guy at the shop was pretty adamant that the oil they put in was a lot better than using the Mercon ATF. But by the time I walked the half mile from the shop over to the Data Center where I am working for the two weeks while I am out here in Colorado, I could not remember what weight oil he said they did use. He also said that they used different oils depending on the transfer case model and if the housing was aluminum or cast iron. They have supposedly been in business for 40 years doing four wheel drive vehicles and jeeps, so I am hoping that they know what they are doing, and have experience with the older vehicles and not just computerized trucks like the shop by the hotel that has only been in business for five years or so and hype up their computerized diagnostics equipment.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. - John Z
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
Received a call from them during lunch, but bad line so I stopped in the shop on the way back to the Data Center.

Overall I was fairly impressed. While they did have the following laundry list of items that needs to be fixed, they did not give me any grief for wanting to do the work myself when I get home. What really surprised me was that they said the oil in both differentials and the transfer case were at the proper level and looked nice and clean. Even though I had already authorized them to do a "Drive Line Service", they said that the truck did not need it and they did not want to charge me for any work that I did not need.

Anyway, here is the laundry list they gave me ...

Injector Return lines leaking ... These have been "leaking" since they were installed with my rebuilt fuel pump. They have always been moist with diesel around that area. I suppose that I could put a new set on, but can do that when I get home.

They said that they thought that one of the injectors was leaking but could not be certain until they return lines were replaced.

The Steering Gear Box was loose. They said that the shaft coming out of the gear box wiggled back and forth. They wanted $650 to replace it. Can't you adjust the lash in the gears to get rid of play in the steering gear box? I thought you could. I told them that I would replace this when I got home. It's been like that since I bought the truck, and I've tightened up the lash before.

The transmission needed a rebuild. They said that they needed to replace all of the "Electronics" in the transmission because the torque converter lockup was not releasing when coming to a stop. This one I though was BULL since there really is not any "Electronics" in our transmissions other than a few solenoids and a couple of sensors. They said that they had a scanner plugged in while they were driving and their scanner indicated that the trans controller had issued the command to release the Torque Converter, but that it had not released. Because of that they needed to pull the transmission from the truck to get at all of the electronics... Can't you replace the solenoid pack just by pulling the pan? Anyway, I thought that this last line was "Bull" because I don't believe that the OBDII port on our trucks reports live data like what commands the controller is sending the transmission for a scanner to pick up on. Or am I completely wrond on this one. I did not even ask them how much this last item would cost as I am certain it would be way over my budget for the entire trip, and I can get a rebuild E4OD with upgraded parts for not too much coin and install it myself.

The last item was the "U" joints. They said that the front drive shaft had some play in it and that even if they were dry that lubing them up would not get rid of the play. I told them that I did not plan on using four wheel drive on the way home so that drive shaft would be stationary the whole way home, so no need to worry about that until later. However, from my experience on older 60's / 70's cars, that lubing the "U" joint got rid of the wiggle and the way to check them was to grab the drive line by the "U" joint and push / pull to see if there was any play, if so, you lubed the joints and the play went away.

The only thing that I am paying the shop for is a front end alignment so that I do not tear up the front tires driving home. Other than that, they did not do any work and I am getting out of the shop for less than $85.

I suspect that the noise I was hearing was in fact the coast clutch, but that it was only making noise when the engine was 240 degrees or more and I was pulling over to let the truck to cool down. I could not duplicate the noise today and the shop could not duplicate the noise.

Well, hopefully everything will go well on the trip back to Utah at the end of next week.

P.S. Anyone ever in this area and I would recommend All American Four Wheel Drive. They did NOT try and take advantage of me and gave me a fare deal for their time today.

Thanks - John Z
 

89Laredo

Underemployed
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
565
Reaction score
1
Location
Sheffield, ia
the torque converter lockup was not releasing when coming to a stop.


OBDII

There's your bogging/stalling coming to a stop.

These trucks aren't obdii, that wasn't around til 96.

You'd be surprised what a scanner will tell you. My mt2500 talks to the ecu AND tcu in my 89 (no obd) jeep.
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
I managed to fix the transmission bogging down, engine staking out when coming down to a stop.

I noticed that every time this happened that the tachometer would have stopped to zero when showing down to come to a stop. I found a ford dealer that had the cam position sensor is sick and replaced the sensor. It has now been three days and over 150 miles later with nearly zero problems. It has bogged down for a few seconds when putting the truck into reverse a couple of times, but it released and the engine went back to normal after a few seconds.

The other thing I have noticed, Sven my wife and kids have noticed that the truck runs a LOT smoother. The transmission tunnel does not get as hot, the coolant temps are about 10 degrees cooler, and the pyro seems cooler under the same driving conditions. Seems weird, but that is the observation the past three days.

Thanks, John Z

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
If you have a cam position sensor, you have a Powerstroke.
Could you get a engine picture?
The idi has a tachometer sensor on the IP gear tower cover.
But the symptoms you described, and what you said they replaced, really sounds like you have a Powerstroke.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
No, I have an idi engine with the standyne db2 fuel pump. When I searched for the sensor, both Rock Auto and the dealership had it listed as a camshaft position sensor, not a tachometer pickup sensor.

You must be registered for see images


The sensor screwed into the gear cover in front of the fuel pump under the edge of the vacuum pump.

Thanks, John Z

Oh, I'll try and send a picture of the engine and sensor location later today. I just woke up after working till nearly midnight last night. Gotta get up and do it again today.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

89Laredo

Underemployed
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
565
Reaction score
1
Location
Sheffield, ia
I guess that's technically correct, since IP is run off of cam gear. More commonly referred to as tach sensor or tach pickup.
Bad one will **** off the e40d, bad TPS will too.
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
Yeah, the guy at the dealership could not find a tach sensor pickup, even though that was what was on the package lable. Since I had seen it listed as a cam position sensor, I asked him to look that up and he found it right away.

Here is the front of the engine with the sensor highlighted.

You must be registered for see images attach


Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Yeah, the way the stupid parts systems work is beyond me.
Did you do a fuel filter also, or just the sensor?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
Hmmm that turned out better than I expected by using my phone to take the picture and then mark it up to show the sensor.

Are there any other sensors that the E4OD uses that could go bad other than the tps and tach sensor? I may as well go ahead and replace them if so.

Thanks, John Z

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

JohnZ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Posts
56
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
I've got three fuel filters behind the back seat. The one on the engine I put on recently with only a thousand miles on it or so.

At home I have everything to install a carrier electric fuel pump plus a racor fuel filter / separator prior to the pump, just did not have time to install that prior to this trip.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,301
Posts
1,129,947
Members
24,110
Latest member
Lance

Members online

Top