92 glow plug fuse?

Selahdoor

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Went out this morning, and couldn't get the truck to start.

Glow plugs now working . At all. No clickee, nuttin'.


Before I dig into anything else, where is the fuse for that?
 

Randy Bush

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Went out this morning, and couldn't get the truck to start.

Glow plugs now working . At all. No clickee, nuttin'.


Before I dig into anything else, where is the fuse for that?

Fuse link , time to dig out the test light and see where you don't have power at. At IP at glow plug controller.
 

Selahdoor

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The good news is that the voltage gauge seems to be working again. LOL
 

gandalf

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Which of the two trucks in your sig block?

I can't recall that there is a fuse for that, though there must be some sort of protection. When my glow plugs went out it was because the two yellow wires supplying power for the gp's had melted, and almost taken out the whole connection block. On my '92 that block is on the driver's side by the fender, about mid way front to rear in the engine bay. I found the pictures. I simply terminated those wires and rewired, powering the gp's from the starter solenoid.

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Selahdoor

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Not going to be getting on to this right away. I have other obligations in the way. Once I have finished those, I'll get back to this.

But I was considering do an alteration on the GP system anyway. Hooking it up via the temp switch, to keep it from running when the engine is already hot enough to start on it's own.

What I am thinking now is that I will probably remove the entire GP system, except the plugs. (Completely remove all the wires, and the controller, from the truck.)
Put on a new GP harness.
Install a tractor starter solenoid near the driver's side battery.
Hook the GP harness to that. (No controller. Just the starter solenoid.)
Then run a relay to power that solenoid. And ground the relay through a momentary on, (40 amp) switch in the cab.

Running all of that from the driver's side battery.
 

dgr

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That's a little over engineering. Starter solenoid. 5 amp switch and fuse and done. It wouldn't hurt to slap some fusible links on the wires feeding the gps or a pair of mega fuses. My parts store 6.9 gp relay seems to work fine. Others have noted longevity issues. White Rogers relay is an upgrade.

Buttttt. Your gp controller has a resistor on it to drop voltage to the gps. Does that make your 7.3 gps 6 volt? You'll need to test how short of a time you need to hold your button.

The small pair of 10 gauge wires is a voltage limiter. When a glow plugs dies, there's one less plug in that bank pulling power so the others will get more voltage.
 

Selahdoor

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By the way, the reason I am going to completely remove the old system, is because I've already been stung by hanger-on in this truck, and others. Stuff that wasn't installed correctly. And stuff that wasn't uninstalled correctly. Leaving wires connected to power, that could have shorted out. And did in some cases.

I want to get the old system completely out of there, leaving nothing connected that might be able to short out later.
 

Selahdoor

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I explained about the voltage in another thread.

People have been running them the way I am going to set it up... For decades, with no problem. :D GPs even seem to last much longer.
 

yARIC008

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Manual control system is by far the test way I think. I've had zero problems for 10 years now with it. Albeit it's not super cold in Florida all the time, but I've had it cold soaked in about 35 degree weather for about 3 days and all went well. Basically just burn the plugs for about 8 seconds, try to start. Repeat that until it fires off.

Once the engine is hot you don't have to worry about it.
 

dgr

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I explained about the voltage in another thread.

People have been running them the way I am going to set it up... For decades, with no problem. :D GPs even seem to last much longer.
Why are people using one relay to trigger another relay?
 

Selahdoor

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It IS possible to just put the solenoid directly on a switch.

But the amp draw from the switch to the solenoid is minimum 8 to 30 amps. And can go even higher.

While it is fairly easy to find momentary on switches that can handle the amp draw, I think it just makes sense to have the protection of a fuse and a relay between that switch where your finger is, and the solenoid.
 

jrollf

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Mine quit overnight a week or so back. I was frustrated at first because almost all the parts are new since I recently rebuilt the entire GP system. I hunch I literally didconnected, cleaned and reconnected all the wires at the controller and it started working again. Everything looked fine before I started it but evidently it wasn't because now it works.

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