89 CC build thread Frame off resto!! - Bad Idea

[92F350CC]

Agreed, that stack looks good on a tractor.

When it comes to trucks, I've said it before and I'll say it until judgement day....stacks have become the redneck equivalent of putting a fart can and picnic bench on a Civic.

 

[laserjock]

Make sure you account for a little wear in the linkages. Banging the dash on a power shift into third is aggravating.

 

[freebird01]

you used to be able to gt a mesh insert that you can tack weld inside an exhaust pipe (used to be used for sidepipes and zoomies) that will knock down that exhaust note. friend of mine used on on the stack on his JD A

 

[junk]

Freebird - Good tip on the mesh, I'll have to look for that. I keep finding fiberglass packing for motorcycles, but hadn't run across the mesh yet.

Well tonight I got a few more things done. And about burned the truck down. I had a bad relay on the door lock system and swapped it for a worse relay that was jumping the 12v to the coil then back feeding to the door lock switch. I'll have to dig back in to the schematics and see if I should add a fuse. The circuit breaker for the door locks I would have thought should protect the circuit.

The wiring for the front doors is mostly installed now and I have working front windows.

I also charged the a/c system. I put about 2.5lb or 40oz of R134a in. In my 93 it seems like I had better a/c performance with the system slightly undercharged.

I got the 5 speed shifter bolted on the t-19 stub. That stub is really hard. Ended up needing an end mill to drill the holes as my bits wouldn't do it. I also put the first layer of lizard skin on the shift cover. Tomorrow night I should be able to do the second coat.

This is the shifter in 1st or 3rd gear

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This is the shifter in 2nd or 4th gear - might be too close to the seat, but I'll drive it a while like this and see what I think.

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[IDIoit]

you can always shorten it, and run a die on it for a custom knob.

 

[laserjock]

That doesn't look any closer than the bent shifter would be. A very small bend in your adapter would probably make it perfect. With the arm rest there, it might be too close but I'm with you, drive it and see. If it's too close, break out the torch and see if you can put a little bend at the adapter. It would take very little as long as the lever is.

 

[junk]

I think what I really need is a t-19 short throw shifter kit. I drove both trucks last night. The ZF-5 is just a much more precise shifting transmission. The t-19 is kind of "sloppy". When you shift the t-19 there is a lot of movement side to side between 1st/2nd and reverse. VS the ZF-5 probably has about 1/2 the movement from 1st/2nd to reverse. I do have to say I generally like the t-19 shifter height though. It's about the same as the zf.

I'm going to put a tighter fitting locating pin in the T-19 and see if that tightens it up some. Overall it's fine, but things can always be better!

I also got the final coating of lizard skin on the transmission cover.

-Jeremy

 

[junk]

Transmission cover is done and bolted in. I do like the look of a part covered in lizard skin.

I also started getting stereo wiring routed for the amp and door speakers. Where do you guys run your amp power wiring? I'm planning to run it through the firewall and then under the door sills? That seam reasonable?

Oh and my truck developed a case of bumper rats!

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[IDIoit]

im running 1 gauge wire for 12V+
i have it connected to the driverside battery.
running inside the frame rail with the rest of the electrical.
i drilled a hole, and used the biggest rubber gromet i could find.
comes into the cab exactly where i needed it to.

i have 1200 watts RMS tho, 2 amps.

the only thing you do not want to do is run your power cable and RCA jacks on the same side if you run them in the door sills.
they will resonate and create feed back.

 

[junk]

Good to know IDIOt. Right now I have the RCA's running right under the carpet beside the tranny tunnel. The power cables and door speakers will be in the sills. Any concern there?

Also can I just mount the amp right to the back wall of the truck?

 

[IDIoit]

Good to know IDIOt. Right now I have the RCA's running right under the carpet beside the tranny tunnel. The power cables and door speakers will be in the sills. Any concern there?

Also can I just mount the amp right to the back wall of the truck?

no concern with the speaker wires in the sills. thats where i run mine.

be carefull where you put the RCA's believe it or not peoples feet can degrade the RCA's even with the carpet over it.
run it in the center.

i have my RCA's in the sill also.

i would NOT put it on the back wall.
when you use screws youre opening the cab to moisture right near an electrical component.
plus the vibration will make them rattle loose, potentially ruining the amp.
i tried it this way, so dont be an IDIoit

if you dont want it on the ground, you can always attach it to the back of the rear seat, just leave room for movement.

 

[IDIoit]

im running
2 10" alpine subs, with a 700 watt amp
4 infinity 3 way 7.5" speakers with
and infinity highs and mids up front.
on a 4 channel 500 watt amp.

i run all my music off my phone.
to a bluetooth receiver on a 7 band EQ.

no deck!
its hidden, and my truck does not look like it has a stereo in it.

i have a custom box that fits behind the rear bench, with the 10's facing down..
she sounds damn good!

 

[junk]

What kind of sub box are you running? I'm looking for something that fits behind the rear seat. I'm probably going with one 10" or 12" speaker.

- Jeremy

 

[IDIoit]

its actually something i made for the back of my 62 ranchero.
fit awesome.
sold the ranchero without the stereo.
and it fit perfect this way...

one amp on the box, one amp on the floor in the center.
where you see the bolts on the "top" of the box, is actually some 2" x 1/8" strap that i drilled,
welded nuts to, and welded it to the back of the cab.
no moisture to come through.
i couldnt peel the insulation back, sorry, i tried.

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[Andertusa]

If it hasn't been mentioned before, I'll be the first, if it has, I'm sorry to reiterate the point.

When you were painting your dash/trim panels and if the color was darker or 'faded out' some, you need to use a primer, most likely white to cover the dark color, then put your new color over the white, then the color will pop as much as you want.