$745 Driveshaft games

Noiseydiesel

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So. . . the asphalt queen with the Allison trans and the adapter connecting the transfer case required shortening the original driveshaft. Shouldn't be a problem. Going from a 2WD toy to the 4x4 had me playing with the carrier bearing drop. The 2WD frame carrier bracket drop is about 2 inches. the 4X4 frame is about 5-1/2 inch drop. Spacing it out became a lesson in geometry and I finally got tired of playing with it.
Drop it, drive it and enjoy the vibration. Repeat, repeat, and do it again and again.
So... Finally took it down to the drive line shop, he looks at it and say's why not a one piece?
Roughly 81 inches of roughly a 5 inch aluminum tube. Tomorrow might be the first test drive and see what happens. Very heavy unit. It might weigh about 23 pounds.
$745 was this episode. I forgot what I paid to shorten the original shaft. And the spacers. And the other hardware. And the gas money to chase parts. . .
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The_Josh_Bear

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It's so shiny!!
Roughly 81 inches of roughly a 5 inch aluminum tube. Tomorrow might be the first test drive and see what happens. Very heavy unit. It might weigh about 23 pounds.
:rotflmao :rotflmao It's quite the heavyweight at 23lbs! That looks to be quite the quality piece. The reason they did 2-peice I believe is because of the length and maybe the torque as well. The single cab 300-6 I used to have has similar power as a stock IDI but had the one-piece aluminum shaft stock. But it wasn't 5" across, lol. Maybe 3.5 or 4".
 

Noiseydiesel

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I F this gets rid of the vibration problem, which I really believe it will, the next step will be the larger injectors, pump and turbo. Bring money.
The inter cooler is a dimension problem with potentially having to move the radiator back. The radiator has the pins that drop into the slots at the bottom and changing that is done, how?
*
If can mover everything back and inch or two, I should have enough room for the inter cooler. With the current reverse front shackle and the mono beam front axle, I could mount the cooler down low and unfortunately partially blocked by the front bumper.
Diesels love cold air but finding it might be problematic.
 

BlindAmbition

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Frozenboost.com

Water to air intercooler would save space in front being a smaller radiator, there are writeups on the site. About to put one in my 86
 

Nero

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Jesus Freak

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So. . . the asphalt queen with the Allison trans and the adapter connecting the transfer case required shortening the original driveshaft. Shouldn't be a problem. Going from a 2WD toy to the 4x4 had me playing with the carrier bearing drop. The 2WD frame carrier bracket drop is about 2 inches. the 4X4 frame is about 5-1/2 inch drop. Spacing it out became a lesson in geometry and I finally got tired of playing with it.
Drop it, drive it and enjoy the vibration. Repeat, repeat, and do it again and again.
So... Finally took it down to the drive line shop, he looks at it and say's why not a one piece?
Roughly 81 inches of roughly a 5 inch aluminum tube. Tomorrow might be the first test drive and see what happens. Very heavy unit. It might weigh about 23 pounds.
$745 was this episode. I forgot what I paid to shorten the original shaft. And the spacers. And the other hardware. And the gas money to chase parts. . .
You must be registered for see images attach
The driveshaft is great. But the real question is, is that a '53 jubilee? '54 NAA?, Or a 501? I almost had a diesel Ford Power Master a few years ago, but the old guy up and died before we closed the deal and I didn't know his son well enough to go asking about it. It was the same body as that tractor you have but all red(factory paint) and a diesel engine.
 

IDIBRONCO

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The radiator has the pins that drop into the slots at the bottom and changing that is done, how?
My solution is going to be to figure out how far back I want to move the radiator. Then drill a couple of holes through the sides of the core support and install 1/4" bolts to replace those pins. Leave the threads sticking through to the inside of the core support for the radiator to rest on. A nut and some red Loc Tite will keep the bolts tight against the core support. If needed, I'll cut off the factory pins. I don't think that the bolts would have to be grade 8, but it probably wouldn't hurt. I just plan to use longer bolts with home made spacers on them to hold the radiator to the front of the core support using the factory clips.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Six States, now called Truckpro at roughly 6111 NE Columbia Blvd did the job on the drive line. The tractor is a 1956 Ford 851 with a 40 HP gas engine. I believe it might get a front blade hooked up to the power up valve located under the front seat and with a 5' brush hog behind it next year, get sold at roughly $4500.

The power upgrade, inclusive of the inter cooler, is on next years schedule.
 

typ4

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Dont move the radiator, put the IC behind the bumper, works fine. If you have a 92 up use the PS bumper with vents, If not , get the vents and cut the bumper.
Radiator HAS to have the pins or the weight of the core/coolant will crack the header plate.
You can come look at mine anytime.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Thank you for that bumper recommendation. I am also looking at changing over to the 2017(?) front bumper that hangs down a bit lower for concealment.
Now if the 2017 front bumper has a larger front vent area, this should happen. However, a lot of this is boiling over into next year and soon will be next spring with the coming colder days.
 

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